Zoo Keeper PS Conversion Switcher Questions

Shavenyak

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I recently got a Zoo Keeper converted from a Qix and I got the switcher
kit from Arcadeshop. I figured before I hook it up to the game, I'd make sure my voltages were right. Check out these readings:

+5---reading 5.01
-5---Reading 4.17
+12---Reading 12.08

In order to get the -5 up to that level, I have to crank it up to where the +5 is close to 6. Am I missing something or do I have a bad switcher? I plugged the switcher straight into the wall. That wouldn't matter would it?

My next questions (these are the dumb ones) is what are the two wires with couplers attached that came with the kit for? Does that have something to do with power for the monitor? If not, how does the monitor get it's power?
 
Your -5 is fine, don't crank it up anymore as the +5 will be to high.

The two couplers are to splice into your monitor power wire. I choose not to do that and make a connector to plug right into the 120v empty spot on the transformer. Either way works just fine

I recently got a Zoo Keeper converted from a Qix and I got the switcher
kit from Arcadeshop. I figured before I hook it up to the game, I'd make sure my voltages were right. Check out these readings:

+5---reading 5.01
-5---Reading 4.17
+12---Reading 12.08

In order to get the -5 up to that level, I have to crank it up to where the +5 is close to 6. Am I missing something or do I have a bad switcher? I plugged the switcher straight into the wall. That wouldn't matter would it?

My next questions (these are the dumb ones) is what are the two wires with couplers attached that came with the kit for? Does that have something to do with power for the monitor? If not, how does the monitor get it's power?
 
Your -5 is fine, don't crank it up anymore as the +5 will be to high.

The two couplers are to splice into your monitor power wire. I choose not to do that and make a connector to plug right into the 120v empty spot on the transformer. Either way works just fine

That's a cool idea. I didn't realize that those outlets were isolated and offered that option.
 
As mentioned before, I'm got a ZK converted from a Qix. Haven't found the conversion manual so I'm kind of going off the two manuals till I find one.

Okay, I'm a bit at a loss here. Hooked up the switcher and it comes on for MAYBE one second and shuts down. If I unplug the J4 harness and leave the J3 in, it's fine. Plug in the J4, down it goes. I've never worked on a Taito was hoping there's something obvious I'm missing? It's interesting to note that if I unplug the TOP board at J1 (video processor board) from the daughter board that J4 appears to go into (coin processor board?) there's no shut down.

Right now what I've done is I'm plugging the switcher into the wall and running the monitor cable (from the game board) into a different machine's monitor {the old back-to-back method :) }for the time being. I've looked at the interlock switches, though I'm not certain that would matter with the current set up. What am I missing guys?
 
You have reversed your plugs at the switcher...either j3 is in j4s spot or turn the plug 180 degrees

Also get rid of the coin board and get the z19 rom instead..
 
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There are also a bank of LEDs on the CPU pcb.. Those will tell you if there is an error.. Plus you can hit the reset switch on the CPU and put it into test mode.

Zookeeper manual will work just fine. The conversion manual is really just for the op on how to convert Qix to ZK.

I totally agree on ditching the coin processor pcb. Its a pain in the ass. Just burn a patch rom.
 
There are also a bank of LEDs on the CPU pcb.. Those will tell you if there is an error.. Plus you can hit the reset switch on the CPU and put it into test mode.

Zookeeper manual will work just fine. The conversion manual is really just for the op on how to convert Qix to ZK.

I totally agree on ditching the coin processor pcb. Its a pain in the ass. Just burn a patch rom.

The LEDs only flash for a brief second because the switcher shuts down. Where can I get the ROM? I'm not advanced enough to burn my own ROMS. :) You really think that will prevent the switcher from shutting down??
 
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You have reversed your plugs at the switcher...either j3 is in j4s spot or turn the plug 180 degrees

The plugs are keyed so it's not possible to turn them around. I'm almost positive I haven't reversed plugs. The online schematics are rather hard to read but I checked several times to insure I didn't do that. I'm a little scared to reverse them?
 
You have reversed your plugs at the switcher...either j3 is in j4s spot or turn the plug 180 degrees

Also get rid of the coin board and get the z19 rom instead..

Naw, I checked again. J3 has a blue wire. J4 does not. They're in the right places on the switcher.
 
Because of the way arcadeshop designed their taito adapters there is a chance you could be touching the back of the adapter to the switcher, which would overload and shut it down.. Your plugging it in the wall, so how about just unplug the power to the game and just test the switcher.. Make sure it stays on with the adapter in place, but nothing plugged into it.
 
...i put mine in backwards a couple weeks ago and got the same result of the switcher lighting up for 2 seconds then shutting off. mine could be turned either way on my zk and qix.
 
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Because of the way arcadeshop designed their taito adapters there is a chance you could be touching the back of the adapter to the switcher, which would overload and shut it down.. Your plugging it in the wall, so how about just unplug the power to the game and just test the switcher.. Make sure it stays on with the adapter in place, but nothing plugged into it.

No such luck. :(

It's fine until I hook up J4. It also works if I unplug J1 on the video processor board. I may try unplugging each board from the bottom up and see if I can isolate the board. Not sure if that's a good way to do it or not. I'm doing exactly what you suggested--the switcher's in the wall and the machine isn't even part of the equation at this point.
 
It's also possible it's a bad tantalum capacitor. See if you can isolate which voltage rail and board is causing it.

Unless I'm missing something {very possible}, wouldn't I need power to the board to check the voltage rail? I've examined all of those tant caps and they don't look bad, as in burned up or anything. There's 9 or 10 of them. This would be a good job for one of those cap testers that I don't have. Guess I'll throw some tants on the order to Bob and see if anything changes.
 
This wouldn't be caused because I removed the old factory battery from the game board would it? I haven't installed the cordless phone battery yet.
 
The missing battery wouldn't short the ps.. It would hinder the pcb from booting correctly.. You can boot one without a battery, but its kinda a pain.
 
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