oh, I thought black knob flybacks don't fail.
dead K7000 can be any number of things. you'll need to measure voltage at the large ceramic resistor hanging off the side. your meter should be set to 200V range DC, black probe you can hook into one of the holes of the heatsink wall for ground, and touch the red probe to the leads of the resistor. under normal operation it should be like 160V (unregulated) on the tube side, and 130V (regulated) on the side closest to you. given that you have nothing, I will venture you'll see about 170V on both tabs, and the monitor will be in high voltage shutdown.
while it's plausible this could indicate a bad voltage regulator, it could also be caused by a shorted HOT, so now turn your meter to diode test, with the cabinet completely turned off, black probe in the heatsink wall, and touch the red probe to the middle leg of the HOT (this is the transistor mounted to the L-shaped portion of the heatsink behind the flyback) ... if it reads a 0.00, the HOT is blown. alternatively you could do resistance test, low resistance it's blown, high resistance it's good.
oh, often times you'll find a chassis missing a fuse too. so verify the fuse is installed.

some chassis versions are silked 1.5A, others 2A, you can use 2A slo-blo on either. if the fuse is blown, which it probably is with a flyback failure, you can probably bet on the HOT being toast regardless.
I'm giving you the complete test procedure to do when you have a dead K7000. I would encourage new HOT, flyback, and voltage regulator (this is the STR part tucked in the corner near the fuse, you need to match the exact part number as there are 2 varieties and they're not compatible with one another. additionally, I'm assuming you have a 25" chassis with the add-on card, but the 123/130 parts also matter, as the 123 is for 19" chassis, and 130 is for 25" chassis)
if the fuse is blown, like I assume it is, I would start by replacing the flyback and HOT. be certain you either reuse the old mica insulator (the clear plastic part that sits on the back of the transistor) or purchase a new one with your other parts. thermal paste, the white kind, not arctic silver, should be applied. and obviously, you'll need a new 2A slo-blo fuse, so be sure to have those on hand as well.
if the flyback and HOT don't bring it back to life, you'll have to repeat the side resistor test above -- if you're getting above 160V on the regulated side, then the voltage regulator is bad and will need to be replaced next.
if these repairs are beyond your scope, you can send it to anyone to get fixed. you've probably heard horror stories about flyback anodes and the electricity they can hold in the tube, your chassis is dead, so don't even worry about it.
that's all. good luck.