Zenith 19vmlp22 won't turn on

adoyt

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The house I moved into has al old romstar Trojan arcade game. When I turn the game on, I hear sounds, but no picture in the monitor. The monitor is a Zenith 19vmlp22. The monitor doesn't appear to be getting power: no orange light in the tube. I reseated the board that the tube plugs into, but still don't have any picture. Not sure where to look for the fuses at or what else to try.

Thanks in advance for any help.
 
The house I moved into has al old romstar Trojan arcade game. When I turn the game on, I hear sounds, but no picture in the monitor. The monitor is a Zenith 19vmlp22. The monitor doesn't appear to be getting power: no orange light in the tube. I reseated the board that the tube plugs into, but still don't have any picture. Not sure where to look for the fuses at or what else to try.

Thanks in advance for any help.
Welcome to KLOV! First, that monitor number you posted looks like it's for the picture tube. When identifying a monitor you go by the circuit boards connected to it, commonly called the "chassis." Look for a model number there and post what you find. It's probably just as easy to post a pic of what you have and it can be identified very quickly. Also you can look at the different chassis models on this website and see if you can match up yours.

http://therealbobroberts.net/monitor.html
 
Monitor

The number you listed is the tube number. There were several different chassis (PCB board with electronic componets) used with that tube. The first thing to do is check for power going into the monitor. Here is a page that will help you ID the specific monitor you have. Try the GO7, WG4900 or WG4600 first.


http://www.therealbobroberts.net/monitor.html
 
Wg k4600

Looks like it's a WG K4600. I've attached a picture.
 

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Huh

Welcome to KLOV! First, that monitor number you posted looks like it's for the picture tube. When identifying a monitor you go by the circuit boards connected to it, commonly called the "chassis." Look for a model number there and post what you find. It's probably just as easy to post a pic of what you have and it can be identified very quickly. Also you can look at the different chassis models on this website and see if you can match up yours.

http://therealbobroberts.net/monitor.html

Damn, I type slow. 4 Minutes to type and paste a link.
 
I had removed the boards to try and show a better picture. I have 3 boards for it.
 
That looks like it's beyond my skill set. I've tried reseating the boards. How can I tell if there is power getting to the boards?
 
If you have a meter you can test the two position connector going to the monitor. There should be approximately 120vac to the connector with the game powered on.
 
Is this the power that I'm holding in my hand (picture below). When I disconnected the cables and test the cable on the right (coming up from the bottom) I do not get a reading. I do get a power reading from the power supply at the bottom of the cabinet.
 

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Yes, that is the power. You should get a reading on the side with the purple/yellow wires. Is your meter set to read volts AC? What is the reading you are getting at the bottom of the cab?
 
I'm just using a rinky-dink meeter that lights up whether it's 220 or 110. When I measure what I think is the power supply, the 110 lights up.
 
Can you hear the game playing right now? There are some switches on many of the doors of arcade cabinets and pulling the doors off often trips these switches isolating power.
 
Yes, I can start a game and hear the action with the cabinet door off. In the picture below, the silver box on the left is the power supply? The power cord from the wall goes to system on the very bottom. The puple/yellow wires are coming from the system on the bottom (with the black box) to the monitor/system board.


Thanks again for your help.
 

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The silver box on the left is called a switching power supply. It is converting the 120vac from the wall into 5vdc, 12vdc, and -5vdc for use by the game board.

The large piece at the bottom of the cab with all of the wires is called an isolation transformer (iso). It should be supplying power to your monitor. If you are getting no power out of the iso then you should check the fuse at the bottom of the cabinet.
 
Do you have an amber/orangish glow in the tubes neck? If so and you turn the brightness up on the monitor (refer to manual as to how to do it) do you see anything?
Honestly when it comes to this old crap more and more components are starting to fail and standard rebuild kits just don't cut it anymore. Too many stories of, "I just rebuilt the monitor and it still doesn't work" stories.
I think you could/should consider buying a Wei-ya chassis. Use the sites search engine - lots and lots of info on these chassis. If your tube has any burn in you could always get yourself a free 19" TV and use the tube out of that as a donor and the chassis themselves run ~$65-$70 shipped. If you send this to someone to have it fixed you'll spend more than that. Just a suggestion and not everyone likes this alternative.
 
I get a reading after the fuse (see picture below).

No orange glow in the tube.
 

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That little metal can where you are testing is a filter for the supply power. You should get a light on your tester if you test off of the 2 lugs on the other side.

Next would be to trace those wires coming out. I can not see the rest of the setup buy my guess is they will split. One run will go up to the monitor. The other will go to the switching power supply discussed earlier.

If the game is playing blind as you describe it sounds like power is making it to the switcher. You said you had no power at the monitor so you may have an open (broken wire or connection) up to that point.

Be careful. Keep in mind with the power on this is 110v up to what ever AMP that fuse is.
 
Yes, I get a reading on the other side as well.

From the ISO (the black box), there is a wiring harness. I can tell which wires match the ones that go up to the monitor and if I unplug the wiring harness, I get no reading. I do get a reading from another wire pair though? Does that mean that the pair of wires coming of the ISO to the wiring harness is bad? Here's a picture.

Any other way to get power to the monitor to know that it's not the monitor / tube?
 

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