Zeke's Peak TECH

tomdotcom

Active member
Joined
Nov 6, 2008
Messages
1,995
Reaction score
7
Location
Kamloops, British Columbia, Canada
Zeke's Peak TECH **update need more help!!**

Hey guys I'm so close to getting my Zeke's Peak working that I just bought. For some reason the RH joystick doesn't do anything though. The LH one works great and you can start a game and everything seems to function normally. But the RH joystick doesn't move the bar or make any sound effects either.

I swapped the 4 working wires from the LH joystick over the RH joystick for testing. Now shouldn't this have allowed me to control the LH motor with the RH joystick? Nothing happened when I swapped it over, it still didn't work.

Any pointers? Maybe my leaf switches are foobarred on the one joystick? They look fine and the contacts look fine, but I suppose they could be messed up inside the switch..
 
Last edited:
Have you verified that the joystick is actually closing the switches? You also need to test the joystick with a multimeter. Put a meter, measuring for continuity, across the leads of a single switch and activate it. The meter should go from a reading of infinite to zero, or very near zero.
 
I'm going to DMM it tonight, I like to do things the hard way it seems ahha. I'm such a DMM rookie it's embarrasing. I do know how to test that though, I'll try after work. 4 days off to get this sonofabitch up and running...
 
OK still need some help here or some ideas. I'll try to explain the problem best as possible.

1 The RH motor does not work, I tested the joystick switches for the RH motor and they tested fine. The joystick will actually make the sound of the bar going up when you start playing a game but the motor will not move.

2 I swapped the wires between the nonworking motor and the working motor and when you do this the nonworking motor did move a bit when you powered the machine on. So the motor seems to be working. But once I swapped the motor wires it will NOT let you start a new game. I believe the machine needs to see the LH motor working before it will let you start a game. I confirmed this by switching the wires back to normal and then unplugging the working LH motor, that way it wouldn't let you start a game.

3 If I have the game wired correctly I can start a game and everything plays normal the LH joystick works fine and moves the bar, all the holes score properly. But the RH motor still will not work.

4 How and what should I test next? Maybe I have a drive transistor problem or something? Or a wiring issue to that motor?

Need some ideas on what and how to test things??

Thanks!!
 
Ok so I've got my 2 new pinballs basically 98percent, so I'm going to dig into this Zeke's Peak again.

Is there a way I can test the nonworking motor to see if it moves? Maybe I can use a wallwart or a 9 volt battery or something like that? I've tested all the wiring and it is all good in that regard. So I'd like to test the motor out of circuit somehow. If the motor works I can start concentrating on board work. Any suggestions would be great. Help a brotha out :)

Tom
 
Last edited:
I tried swapping the wires and it still didn't work. But I think the game may need to see that the LH motor is working to start a game. If I leave it wired normally I can start a game and the LH motor works fine and the game starts. If I swap the wiring for the motors it will not let me start a game so I can't test to see if the RH nonworking motor works.
 
How does the game see the left motor work? If it is a return line from the motor itself then the right motor, when connected in place of the left motor should activate the same circuit.


Are there any schematics online that I can look at?
 
If I unplug the LH motor it won't let you actually start a game. Not sure why it does that or how. But I think it uses the LH motor to do the ball search before a game starts. If the ball is on the rod it will raise the bar and deposit the ball back to the start hole so it can start a game.
 
Can you use your meter to test each motor?

Measuring for resistance put your meter across both lugs of each motor. It doesn't matter which lead goes where. Record these readings and post back here.
 
If the motors test the same check the bridge rectifiers on the unregulated power supply board (page 38, components labeled as 'BR'). Again, these can be compared since there are two different circuits. In fact, even if the motors do not compare correctly test the bridges anyway.


Page 52 of the .pdf shows the drive control circuitry for the motors. If the motor windings test the same then compare the readings on the transistors (components labeled as 'Q') and diodes ('D').

I am doubtful that it is one of these components because the motor doesn't operate in either direction so two different circuits would have failed to get the indications you are experiencing.
 
LH working motor tests at 1.4-2.0 or so depending on exactly where you touch the motor tabs.

RH nonworking motor tests at around 0.9-1.0.


The windings of the RH motor may be shorted.

The 9v battery idea you had may work for driving the motor (I believe it is a 12v motor). You can try on the good motor and see what you get. swaping the battery around should drive the motor in the opposite direction.
 
Yep I did see the 2 bridges on the power supply, and I have a couple replacements if need be. I have already tested the transistors and they seemed to test fine. I never thought to check those bridges. I'll read into checking the bridges and double check those transistors and report back.
 
Transistor Test:

The working transistors test at about 350.

There are 2 that test different and that is Q11 and Q19 which are for the RH nonworking motor they test at 7.82 for q19 and 4.58 for q11.
 
What about Diodes D1, D2, D8, and D9?

Q11 and Q19 are for the RH up, I believe. Is it possible to swap the connectors on the RH motor? My thoughts on this are the down circuitry is disabled when the bar is in its lowest position. If you can swap the wires and then the motor works in the upward direction then I'd blame the circuitry (transistors and/or diodes).
 
Back
Top Bottom