Zaxxon Part Out

[NERDtendo]

sold sold sold

 

[bungy]

Doesn't look too bad, what's wrong with the bottom?

 

[djdaveofkc]

zaxxon

How much for the pcb? I've got one with no sound

 

[Xyla]

Unless there is some part that is really horrible that we can't see in the photos, that doesn't look hard to fix and keep intact.

 

[NERDtendo]

Part out is underway...I have responded to PMs and sent PMs.

 

[bungy]

Another one bites the dust. RIP Zaxxon.

 

[ArcRevival]

How do you expect to learn woodworking if you never try. Another wasted classic. You didn't even bother trying to sell it whole did you ?

 

[NERDtendo]

Control Panel is sold.

 

[NERDtendo]

Coin mechs and buckets have been sold.

 

[pookdolie]

That's one of the better-looking Zaxxons I've seen, condition-wise.

Correction: was (I guess)

 

[EVB]

Ugh... The game doesn't look that bad at all and you would probably get more selling it as a working game than in parts.

 

[p1899m]

How much for the pcb? I've got one with no sound

there's an extremely high chance you just need to replace the caps on your old board to bring the sound back.

 

[Ghostnuke]

Ugh... The game doesn't look that bad at all and you would probably get more selling it as a working game than in parts.

I know he said the bottom was messed up, but all I see in the pictures is about 10 minutes worth of bondo work.

 

[joeycuda]

there's an extremely high chance you just need to replace the caps on your old board to bring the sound back.

Here's an old rgvac post describing the fix (solution 2). I did this 10yrs ago and it fixed my board!

http://groups.google.com/group/rec....e7a70?lnk=gst&q=zaxxon+sound#f4713e67d67e7a70

****Zaxxon (+Super Zaxxon)
==Problem: Sounds of ship flying, explosions, etc. may be there when the
game is first turned on, but slowly fade over several minutes. Will not
return until the game has been left off for a while. [COMMON]
-Solution 1 (easy): Replace all 2.2 uF/50V caps C69, C68, C29, C28, C38.
Only use basic cheap-o polarized electrolytics (e.g. Mouser
140-XRL50V2.2). Don¹t get fancy, as the circuit relies on the leakage
through this cap.
-Solution 2 (better): Replace C69, C69, C29, C28, C38 with non-polar
electrolytics (e.g. Mouser 140-NPRL50V2.2). Next, strap the "output" side
of each cap to the +6V common though a 100kohm resistor. Refer to the
circuit diagram to find the best place to install each resistor.
-Discussion: These caps are used as DC blocking caps in the audio
section. As the feed a high-Z load without any tie-down resistor, they do
not really work as high-pass filters as planned. The capacitor can build
up a charge which eventually biases the OP amp to the point of clipping.
When the caps are fresh, leakage through the cap can prevent the run-away
bias. But if fresh caps are installed that do not have enough leakage,
they will not work.

 

[NERDtendo]

Silver trim from the top of the coin door is sold...

 

[NERDtendo]

Updated original post with what's left...