I used BOTH! ;-)
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in contemporary times I use 2.5. it's sufficient for doing multi layer boards like PC motherboards.You guys who use the FR301, what temperature do you usually set it to?
Since I'm asking, what temperature do you usually use when soldering?
For me, I used to solder to the pins first. Then used my FR-300 to remove the solder. Hot air station for a few seconds and it came right out.
NOWADAYS, however, I do it even better and have never turned back! A friend told me about this no clean soldering flux that's typically used for surface mounted chips. I now just add some solder to the pins. Put some of the flux along each row. And the Hakko FR-300 takes it out in one swoop. EVERY time. I can't remember when I use the hot air station. Don't need it now.
Linky link here:
* I only use the no clean flux when removing sockets or through hold eproms, ram, etc. So, it's lasted for years.
Del
I still use my old Weller iron and a soldapult. Been using these for over 40 years or so. I don't work hard, I work efficiently with these.
Rarely a pulled trace or disconnected pad. Easy to clean. Still on the original nozzle (or perhaps the second) but that might need to be replaced soon. YMMV

I agree with this 100%. (Assuming you have a quality flux like Kester of course or similar).I do the same, except you can do it without separate flux. The solder added to each pin already has flux in it. That's really the key to getting heat into each joint, breaking the oxide crust on the surface of each joint (which is a very poor conductor of heat), so you get good thermal transfer from the gun tip to the joint.
Add solder to each pin, hold board VERTICALLY (not flat on the table), wiggle the pin with the tip of the gun (to break up any oxide on the parts side) and you'll get much cleaner pulls. No extra flux (which only gums up your gun faster), or heat gun needed.
Feel free to ship me your "worthless" FR-301.Adding my own perspective to this religious war...
I haven't touched my FR-301 in over a year. I got tired of it constantly jamming, constantly requiring cleaning/maintenance, and constantly damaging pads.
I now use the Vampire Tools Solder Sucker and Chemtronics Chem-Wik Desoldering Braid. It's been nothing short of a revelation. And believe it or not, I find I work quicker now than when I used the FR-301.
I can't get the hang of desoldering braid
I tried other desoldering braids in the past and never liked them. But the Chem-Wik stuff is amazing. I think it's infused with flux?
Adding my own perspective to this religious war...
I haven't touched my FR-301 in over a year. I got tired of it constantly jamming, constantly requiring cleaning/maintenance, and constantly damaging pads.
I now use the Vampire Tools Solder Sucker and Chemtronics Chem-Wik Desoldering Braid. It's been nothing short of a revelation. And believe it or not, I find I work quicker now than when I used the FR-301.

The most basic trick for desoldering, is to ADD solder before hand. Then desolder the newly heated/fluxed pins.![]()
Key factor right here.So people crank up the temperature on the gun, thinking that will fix the problem. But it doesn't. It just adds more heat to the SOLDER SIDE, which melts the adhesive and results in ripped pads and traces, even though the parts side can still be solid. The key is to get more heat into the parts side.
I like this advice.I do the same, except you can do it without separate flux. The solder added to each pin already has flux in it. That's really the key to getting heat into each joint, breaking the oxide crust on the surface of each joint (which is a very poor conductor of heat), so you get good thermal transfer from the gun tip to the joint.
Add solder to each pin, hold board VERTICALLY (not flat on the table), wiggle the pin with the tip of the gun (to break up any oxide on the parts side) and you'll get much cleaner pulls. No extra flux (which only gums up your gun faster), or heat gun needed.