Yep, Matsushita TM-202G issues

i86time

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So I just got my new Sencore CR70 tonight and was going to try it out on the TM-202G in my PP2 cockpit. I had the back open and was getting set up while my daughter was playing. I heard, 'Daddy, what did you do?' I hear hissing, look up and white smoke is just billowing out of the side of the flyback. I just replaced this fly May of this year (bought it from Bob) along with a cap kit, less than 20 hours of run time. The original flyback had blown before I purchased this game. Did I just get a bad unit, are all replacement flybacks for this unit junk or is there something on the chassis that could have caused this?
 
I'm curious about this as well. Why? I have a Matsushita out of a Crystal Castles that I'd like to put IN my CC, as the tube looks pretty clean. Ha..I realize probably because it died and was pulled, but are there some things that can be done to help bulletproof these?

Why (in the opinion of the monitor pros here) were these a bad design or unreliable? What are the common failure points?

Sorry to threadjack, but hopefully my questions are helpful.
 
The chassis is just shit. I had a working one once. I did a cap kit and put in a new fly, and it never worked again. At all.
 
trash it.

put a real monitor in there.

lop the neck board off for me please before you trash it.

Peace
Buffett
 
I repaired a few, the schmatic in the manual is great, it separates each section of the chassis. my major issue was a bad tube which seems impossible to find.
 
There is a real and contemporary reason why people call these monitors "piece-o-shita"

The horror stories on this brand are wide and varied.

I agree with Buffett and the rest - Chuck it (well, lop of the neck board for Buffett) and put in a good monitor.
 
My first attempt to repair a monitor was a TM-202G. What a disaster! I still have it along with another "working" chassis; but am not desperate enough to use it. They are crap, if you have one and it's working, enjoy. If you have one and it's not working, toss it and get something else, don't waste your time, effort, money or sanity. Before you pitch it, lop the neck board off and send it to Buffett.
 
I wonder... one issue this thing had was it took over a minute to warm up completely and the picture to show. Maybe the flyback wasn't good from the start? I wonder if arcadecup's flys are from a different manufacturer. I just wasn't expecting the replacement fly to go so soon. I'll probably throw a K4600 in there and just change the flyback sometime later and keep it as a back up. Lucky me, also have one in my Millipede.
 
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don't waste your time with trying to fix it.

the 4600 is a way better monitor the pice-o-shitsa ever was.

don't forget to send me the neck board.
i will pay the shipping.
a yellow bubble mailer will do.

Peace
Buffett
 
I'm stubborn, so I'll probably throw another flyback in there. If that one blows, you can have the head, the tail, the whole damn thing.
 
I'm stubborn, so I'll probably throw another flyback in there. If that one blows, you can have the head, the tail, the whole damn thing.

being stubborn on a chassis that is worth something is great.

being stubborn on a piece of crap is a waste of money.

the only thing worth anything on that chassis is the neck board.

and that is only worth the price of shipping.

good luck with banging your head on a wall.

Peace
Buffett
 
What is the part number for the flyback? I think these are NOS for $14 shipped.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TLF6041F-Replacement-For-TV-Flyback-Transformer-HR6454-/121016455324

Thanks for the link. That appears to be a new version rather than NOS. The one I replaced and the one in my Millipede have a black anode/cup wire and the outer 'handle' thing was cylindrical rather than squared off. I bet all the new versions are from the same manufacturer, but this one's cheaper than Bob.
 
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being stubborn on a chassis that is worth something is great.

being stubborn on a piece of crap is a waste of money.

the only thing worth anything on that chassis is the neck board.

and that is only worth the price of shipping.

good luck with banging your head on a wall.

Peace
Buffett

It'll be a hollow victory. I'd be lying if I said that in the 5 months it worked the monitor looked half as nice as the day it's spent with a 4600. But I can't let an inanimate object win a fight it can neither know nor care it is involved in. The only thing it has going for it is the tube has very little burn. Onward.
 
a victory is a good thing.

i have only seen 1 maybe 2 that have ever been fixed.

the reason they have good tubes is that they never worked long enough to burn in an image.

good luck on the fix.

i hate a 4600 to but i will fix one over that POS any day.

Peace
Buffett
 
being stubborn on a chassis that is worth something is great.

being stubborn on a piece of crap is a waste of money.

the only thing worth anything on that chassis is the neck board.

and that is only worth the price of shipping.

good luck with banging your head on a wall.

Peace
Buffett

So, I'm not disputing what you're saying, due to your experience, but what makes it crap? Just curious about what aspect of the design makes it junk? Thanks for sharing the info. Now I'm on the fence about spending ANY time on mine, although with the tube as clean as it is, I'm putting money on it being pulled after crapping out.
 
poor design.

some parts are NLA.

tube is useless with any other chassis it is a different pin-out on the neck.

the chassis can burn hols in themselves. seen it many times

hard to adjust to get a good pic.

nobody repairs them.

i trash everyone i get.

the only thing worth anything is the neck socket.

hope this helps.

Peace
Buffett
 
Well, let the head banging begin. I received the replacement last night. I think my original replacement was a bad unit. As noted, it took quite a while for it to warm up. This new one has the tube showing a picture in about 10 seconds or so. If the TM-202G has anything going for it, it's the wide open chassis and frame. I had the new flyback up and running within 10 minutes, without having to pull the chassis. Below is a pic of the self destructed first replacement. I was a bit worried as it's the same manufacturer and if the number on the sticker (20020615) was a date code not only is it over a decade old, but they were manufactured in the same batch. Maybe it's just an internal item number? Anyway, fingers crossed, but I do still have the K4600 in the game.

 
Keep at it. The NLA stuff is rough, but letting busted gear "win" is no fun. Gotta beat 'em! I've got one of those in my Millipede, no way will I let it sit if it ever goes out on me. :)
 
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