Xenophobe DOA

You found your problem. You have a bad cord.

Go over the cord. Look for slices in the jacketing, punctures, or areas that look thinner. (With the cord unplugged) feel for any catches or soft spots.

Did you check your meter (probe to probe) and verify that you get 0 ohms like that? That checks your meter.
I made a mistake when I was checking. I was not making contact with the wire correctly. Now that I have it right, I get infinite resistance with any combination of the green and white wire but with the black wire and one of the prongs of the plug I get 0.25. That is what I get when I touch probe to probe also.
 
Where's the power switch located on Xeno? ANSWER: at the top of the head, rear-right location. (see manual)
Wouldn't it be funny if that is the issue. Maybe by "flipping it on" he "flipped it off". LOL

Xeno_powerswitch.jpg
You may be on to something here. I had to remove the monitor to get the game in my basement. I had to unplug the monitor board feed and the four switch wires. The guy that sold me the game helped me get them back in the right place but I am not sure it is correct. The switch is difficult to explain because the posts are in a square configuration and it is difficult to relate what prong is correct for the schematic. This certainly could be one of the issues. The wires are blue, blue/yellow, brown/white and brown/orange.DSC_0089.JPG
 
You should be able to have it plugged in and turn it on and get 120V- ish entering the power supply if your power cord is in good shape.
The wire itself doesn't fail often but those plugs certainly do.
How can I check? The one time I tried to read the voltage with the cord plugged in I did something wrong and kicked the breaker.
 
Before disassembling ANYTHING ... always take lots of pictures. That's RULE #1.

With regards to the power switch, blues go with blues and browns go with browns. (See the diagram I posted).
Yours seems "crisscrossed". You should research this further before powering with AC again.

Notice that Line is on one side and Neutral is on the other. Example below.
If in doubt, remove the switch and look at markings. Use your DVM to confirm which two are related contacts.

s-l1600.jpg
 
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Before disassembling ANYTHING ... always take lots of pictures. That's RULE #1.

With regards to the power switch, blues go with blues and browns go with browns. (See the diagram I posted).
Yours seems "crisscrossed". You should research this further before powering with AC again.

Notice that Line is on one side and Neutral is on the other. Example below.
If in doubt, remove the switch and look at markings. Use your DVM to confirm which two are related contacts.

View attachment 756887
So I should move the blue/yellow wire over to the terminal where brown/orange is and brown/orange to where blue/yellow is? I agree with the pictures but unfortunately for me the guy who sold me the machine also delivered it and it was about a 7 hour drive. He took the monitor off in like two minutes and before I could ever see what was what and then he left to drive home before my moving crew got it to the basement. I had to put it back together myself.
 
brown wires should be L, blue wires should be N. the wires with white stripes should be the output ones. I've never had to take one of those apart before, I'm impressed they use like European wire colors. :p
 
My torc tool set is in and I am about to disassemble the joystick to try to fix the sticking button. Do you guys have any tips on what I should expect or any surprises that might be waiting inside these joysticks?
 
Before you do that, fix the switch and see if the game comes up.

From what I remember on the one I had to fix (I had a wire that broke off), it's very congested in the joystick wires wise. Take a picture when you get it apart so it goes back together right. The wires have to be tight, or they can be pinched in the joystick halves when they come back together.
 
Still no luck fixing this machine. Anyone have any ideas?
 
Still no luck fixing this machine. Anyone have any ideas?
When we last checked in, the power cord sounded iffy.

Infinite resistance on the white and ground mean you have no neutral to return the hot (black) power from. So the game won't run.

Unless I missed something in this long thread.
 
This reminded me how I once mis-wired a ground plug I replaced on a power chord and blew a breaker. I was very relieved I didn't blow up the house (or the game)….

I know the continuity test was downvoted, but given that you blew a breaker when you were poking around, I would personally unplug the game and do a continuity test on all three wires from the ground plug to the connector and interlock switch to rule that out. Make sure the wires go where they should. You may have to do some googling and consult the manual to match up where the ground, hot, neutral go in the chain. Remember to pull the interlock switch out to test continuity between both sides.

Were you able to determine that the interlock was wired up correctly?
 
Hope you can find somebody trustworthy to help you fix it. Personally staring at a dead game i really wanted to play for this long would bum me out.

Not everybody is an expert or even a novice but your best bet for this fix and owning these games in general is probably trying to figure some of this out on your own and going from there. You should always understand your games to at least a basic level.

I'd verify continuity from the wall to power supply step by step, unplug power from the board and monitor and then verify you're getting power.

something is happening from the jump that's preventing the game from working. It's probably going to either be a fuse/holder or a bad power connection or a bad PSU.

I just got a Mortal Kombat 1 a few weeks ago that powered on for an hour then completely died. Okay this sucks, not the best at repairs and troubleshooting yet. Thought about it for 2 minutes and figured there probably was a fuse issue. Fuse looked visually good, but figured i may as well check continuity. Fuse was dead. Put a new one in, died an hour later. Cleaned up some shoddy wiring checked voltages etc, then another died. Followed the power lines, checked the schematic and it turns out the original owner put the fuses in backwards. A dead game was suddenly working like magic.

as a humble scrub, a bit of precaution, patience and determination you could probably learn a lot about the problem you're having within an hour or two starting from little to no know how. Google and searching on here helps a lot.
 
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