WTF is wrong with my 720 (Really Pissed Off)

machfelon

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I bought this 720 like a month ago. Paid 600 for it and drove 10 hours round trip. Had joystick and PS issues. Seller sends me a new PS and it seemed to fix my problem with the garbage on the screen but still had joystick problems.

I spend another 165 for a new joystick and as soon as I plugged it into my harness the garbage on the screen has returned. Its as if it has blown the PS again. This joystick is actually worse than my original one.

I now have over 800 dollars invested into a NON WORKING 500 pound Atari Boat Anchor called 720.

Can someone please help me fix this thing. I dont care if I have to pay or give up another game. I am f*ing pissed and venting so sorry for rant. Never had so much trouble on 1 game before.
 
Why a new joystick? Why not get the rebuild parts and rebuild it? It's a given that a well used 720 stick will have a lot of wear to the upper housing, pivot ball, etc..
 
Dang, sorry to hear that. 720 is one of my personal favs and I know you will be happy once it is up and running properly. It sounds like maybe your joystick pcb has some issues. Not sure if you used the same one or if you put in a joystick with a different pcb- it sounds odd.

Could your wire harness be giving you some issues if things are not connecting tightly or if you wiggle things around a bit does it change the image?

I do have an extra rebuild kit if you are interested in getting the joystick moving properly, if that is also a problem. I am sure Jeff or some other 720 expert will be able to help you troubleshoot it more.
 
I have 3 optics boards now, 2 joysticks and 2 Power Supplys. The garbage was fixed with the replacement powere supply but as soon as I plugged in the new joystick with new optics board heard a pop or crackle and the garbage has returned.

I have no idea how to fix it and am really get upset over it. Hell I even sold / traded a pin to make room for this thing and it sits and gets more and more money thrown at it. Never had this much trouble or read so much info on 1 game.

Which PS from HAPP would be compatible? (Buying a BRAND NEW one this time)

Who can sell me a BRAND NEW (optics board)

Who has a wiring harness for 720?

No idea what else is wrong. Board works fine when PS is functioning and passes all system rom tests accept joystick test. On that screen it will not pick up the squares on the screen hence the skater does not move.
 
No need for a new harness...nothing is probably wrong with the actual wire. You may need/want to repin certain connectors though, replacing the pins with crimp on trifurcon type. I've had to do that on several games with crap connectors, or just to avoid that being a problem in the future.
 
f*ing pissed and venting

get your multimeter and check the +5v coming out of power supply and on the gameboard

the reason for checking on the gameboard is that there can be a problem inside the connector with the pins there such as a weak pin condition or oxidation cant be detected unless you are testing on the PCB

could be it's too low. hopefully it isnt up too high and damaging components
 
No need for a new harness...nothing is probably wrong with the actual wire. You may need/want to repin certain connectors though, replacing the pins with crimp on trifurcon type. I've had to do that on several games with crap connectors, or just to avoid that being a problem in the future.

get your multimeter and check the +5v coming out of power supply and on the gameboard

the reason for checking on the gameboard is that there can be a problem inside the connector with the pins there such as a weak pin condition or oxidation cant be detected unless you are testing on the PCB

could be it's too low. hopefully it isnt up too high and damaging components

This is exactly what I would do. I have a voltage drop, but at my connector pins...I have pure 5.07 coming from my wires and then I measure it connected to the board on the back side of the soldered pins, I'm down to 4.92...that will cause an issue. I highly doubt that your PS is an issue, but you can pick up one for $20-30 from almost anywhere...Twisted Quarter, Arcadeshop, wherever. The joystick is always an issue and until properly rebuilt, it won't feel better. Even with that, it took a while for mine to get broken in. If you've got all new optics, etc. then that can't be a problem. I still think it's a Leta chip issue. Did you replace that? This game is fairly complex with a lot going on. I spent 1 month on my restore, but 4 months sending boards across the nation just getting it to work and it still has that voltage issue (I just haven't had time to re-solder new connectors yet...gotta finish ROTJ). Don't give up!
 
Learn the basics

You should watch a few videos on YouTube on how to use a meter.. Instead of spending a ton of cash on more parts you prolly don't need..

By the way, the ps that was sent to you was almost new.. It sat in a taito game I had for a year.. Which never had a monitor in it so it wasn't used..

Doesn't matter how much you paid, how far you drove, or what stuff you bought.. These games are old, used, and not the easiest things to fix.. Most of us who have been collecting for awhile have had the same issues you have.. This stuff takes time man, it's a hobby, and it ain't cheap..

Become good friends with your local collectors.. They can be the best resouces.
 
You should watch a few videos on YouTube on how to use a meter.. Instead of spending a ton of cash on more parts you prolly don't need..

By the way, the ps that was sent to you was almost new.. It sat in a taito game I had for a year.. Which never had a monitor in it so it wasn't used..

Doesn't matter how much you paid, how far you drove, or what stuff you bought.. These games are old, used, and not the easiest things to fix.. Most of us who have been collecting for awhile have had the same issues you have.. This stuff takes time man, it's a hobby, and it ain't cheap..

Become good friends with your local collectors.. They can be the best resouces.

Not saying your PS that you provided was bad. Im simply saying that when I plugged in my other joystick with different optics board I got the same problem and am back at square 1.

For someone with a limited electronics background some of the repair tips are beyond my expertise. I am in the learning stage and feel a lot better "getting my hands dirty" on a cheap project machine rather that a grail I have a lot invested in. Im sure you can understand that. Breaking something in a 20 dollar cab is way different than messing something up in a 1k grand game.

On that note though. If its not the power supply or the optics board causing my issues. Could it be a bad wiring harness? Or a bad transformer "big blue capacitor?" at bottom of cabinet. Could this be the LETA chip malfunctioning? Once it gets to board repairs and tracing connectors Im really lost. I would love to have a "friend" in the area to help with repairs but unfortunetely the few people I know live a little out of the way. Hell I've even offered up a complete game with boards for someone to come out and fix it or diagnose it and no responses. The one guy local here wants 165 dollars just to come to the house. And he lives 5 minutes away. NJ is not known for its KINDNESS no offense to other NJ residents.
 
The one guy local here wants 165 dollars just to come to the house. And he lives 5 minutes away. NJ is not known for its KINDNESS no offense to other NJ residents.

My wife says for about half that you can get a prostitute and a oujie board. It won't fix your game but it will distract you for awhile.
 
when you unplug the NEW joystick, does the garbage clean up?

Im in the philly area, where you at in jersey?

Monmouth County off the GSP

No garbage is still there with or without the joystick now. Power issue for sure but still doesnt solve the joystick problems.
 
Rather than be willing to spend that for someone to drop by, just cut the frustration by spending some of that sending the boards and joystick stuff to someone to test and possibly repair. Think of it this way - the stuff is old, flaky, and if it's working now, it will probably need fixed at some point. Get it back from repair guy and feel good about it working for a while.
 
Question

When the switcher was installed, did they cut up the harness at all? As I'm assuming you still have the AR pcb running the sound and the switcher is running the rest? Have you figured out how to test voltage yet? As 90% of all atari issues start with the ps.. Are you getting 5v to the pcb?

There are test points on the board I think.. They will say 5v, 12v, etc..
 
i have a fully working one. If you want to bring the boards by and hook them up to route out the problem with them... thats fine.. this way youll know if its a power or optic board thing...

i still think its the crystal.. but who knows... if it works on mine then ya know

im in clifton heights, pa
 
I bought this 720 like a month ago. Paid 600 for it and drove 10 hours round trip. Had joystick and PS issues.

Sounds like you got what you paid for...

A hobby that involves 20+ year old hardware is not a cheap one. It's a good thing you got rid of the pin, they cost alot too in the long run...

You are either going to have to learn how to work on these things, or are going to spend alot more money, and not like the hobby at all.

Just my two cents...

Good luck on getting it working.

-Mike
 
Post some pictures or a video of what you are seeing.
Someone might be able to identify where to start.

Garbage on the screen means what? Does it coin up? Does it play
but its not descernable? can you be more specific.

I'd recommend sending it off for repair without that. If you want to
swing by and borrow a power supply or test yours, I have a spare.

I'm betting its not the supply as well.
 
Well when you first turn on the machine 90% of the time I hear crackling in the speakers and a blue screen. 10% of the time the game will boot up, can coin up and when anything else is pressed game goes blue, gets garbage or makes the crackling noise again.

This was fixed via the new PS from local413, nerdygrl.

Then after I plugged in my new joystick to the harness I was back at square 1.

When it was working with the new PS it was completely stable except the skater would not turn. Wont register the movements in test screen. I figured maybe the joystick I have is shot since I tried 3 different optics boards and bought a supposed working one from another sellers cabinet. Figuring that if its working in his game in theory it should work in mine. Well it did not.

I did finally get a multi-meter today. Got this one from sears.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...21x00003a&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=03482334000P

When testing the voltages can anyone tell me exactly what I do? I presume with game on and back of cabinet open I would check the 5v line on the switching power supply. What do you do next, put red on that lead and black on a ground, like chassis or something?

Also which setting on meter do I set it to?

Then when it comes to the board I will look for the test points but again which setting using said multi-meter up top.

Craftsman 82334 Auto Ranging with audible.

Malice95 since you live the closest to me I may take you up on your offer, or possible could give ya some parts, $ for your trouble. Maybe you can get your Taito Mr Do cab back :)
 
A lot of seemingly intermittent or kooky problems are connector related. My 720 works fine for now, but I plan on replacing connectors eventually just because I read about other peoples' problems. Whatever you do, bulletproof as much as you can, make sure the fan is clean and works properly, and learn as much as you can about how the power is routed in the cabinet.
 
Well when you first turn on the machine 90% of the time I hear crackling in the speakers and a blue screen. 10% of the time the game will boot up, can coin up and when anything else is pressed game goes blue, gets garbage or makes the crackling noise again.

This was fixed via the new PS from local413, nerdygrl.

Then after I plugged in my new joystick to the harness I was back at square 1.

When it was working with the new PS it was completely stable except the skater would not turn. Wont register the movements in test screen. I figured maybe the joystick I have is shot since I tried 3 different optics boards and bought a supposed working one from another sellers cabinet. Figuring that if its working in his game in theory it should work in mine. Well it did not.

I did finally get a multi-meter today. Got this one from sears.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...21x00003a&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=03482334000P

When testing the voltages can anyone tell me exactly what I do? I presume with game on and back of cabinet open I would check the 5v line on the switching power supply. What do you do next, put red on that lead and black on a ground, like chassis or something?

Also which setting on meter do I set it to?

Then when it comes to the board I will look for the test points but again which setting using said multi-meter up top.

Craftsman 82334 Auto Ranging with audible.

Malice95 since you live the closest to me I may take you up on your offer, or possible could give ya some parts, $ for your trouble. Maybe you can get your Taito Mr Do cab back :)

you set it at 20V DC

you can test it at your power supply by touching the red probe to the +5 terminal, and the Black probe to the Ground Terminal

you should also test it at the pcb. which means you touch one of the +5 pins on the edge connector and one of the ground pins. with the jamma harness plugged in there's still enough space to touch the pins with your probes

I'm not sure what the +5 should be set at for this game. Maybe somebody else can tell you that.
 
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