WTB working Challenge PCB (like pong)

Adieux

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I have a 4 player Challenge that I need a PCB for. This is like pong. Let me know your asking price shipped to Fargo ND. Thanks.
 
I've got an upright. I think it's the same board, but I have to make sure the board is in the game. I'll be in my unit within the next day or two and will check. Get on me if you still need it and haven't heard from me.
 
I think it needs repair. I did a little troubleshooting and It may be the Power supply. It seems I'm not getting power to the board. Do you have a PCB for this?
 
I think it needs repair. I did a little troubleshooting and It may be the Power supply. It seems I'm not getting power to the board. Do you have a PCB for this?

To be honest, you're unlikely to find anyone with a pcb tested working ready to go. You'll probably have to fix what you have. If you could post a photo of the pcb it might help me recognise which one it is, there's a million of these sorts of pong clones around, i have a lot of b/w stuff. I also repair stuff if you need it doing.
 
This is a Mirco Challenge (4 Player Pong Clone) PCB.

xph5hncl.jpg


2K1E14xl.jpg


The two link wires in the second image are a hack to stop the ball speed increasing, there is also anonther green PCB version without the 'Mirco' logo on the board but is exactly the same.

This is the cabinet it belongs in.

OCsP2Cwl.jpg


It's easy to get connectors P2 and P3 swapped around so make sure that hasn't happened.

If you're not getting +5vDC to the board then the fault is likely to be located in the monitor which has a small plug in 'Audio' card. It regulates the the monitor B+ (+73vDC), the game board (+5vDC) and provides the audio amplification. It's impossible to access the plug in card to take measurements so I soldered fly wires to the points on the PCB that I want to measure.

Psm10IHl.jpg


zA8yCL0l.jpg


The first thing to check is the bridge rectifier and make sure it's putting out around 10.8vDC.

ZQvSHGol.jpg


There is a fair amount of heat generated here and I replaced mine with an 8A bridge rectifier instead of the 4 diodes.

A42uQjhl.jpg


If the supply is good then remove and test (or replace) the bottle cap transistor at Q20 (2N3055) which is located to the right of the bridge rectifier in the image above. If neither of these are at fault then the next step would be to confirm that IC1 (TL071 op amp) is good and that pins 2 & 3 are both getting 4.3v you might want to check the 4.3v zener diode at D20 if the voltage is incorrect at pin 3 of IC1. I've also had Q19 fail on a friends board.

Connecting the game board up on a test bench is quite easy, I use a PC power supply to provide 5v (or an arcade PSU) and connect the video to the AV input of any TV. No other connections are needed just to test if the board is powering up but the bats won't be visible if the four 5K pots aren't connected.

Pinout below shows the connector pins on the PCB, not the plugs.

mtIhhlLl.jpg
 
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