This is a Mirco Challenge (4 Player Pong Clone) PCB.
The two link wires in the second image are a hack to stop the ball speed increasing, there is also anonther green PCB version without the 'Mirco' logo on the board but is exactly the same.
This is the cabinet it belongs in.
It's easy to get connectors P2 and P3 swapped around so make sure that hasn't happened.
If you're not getting +5vDC to the board then the fault is likely to be located in the monitor which has a small plug in 'Audio' card. It regulates the the monitor B+ (+73vDC), the game board (+5vDC) and provides the audio amplification. It's impossible to access the plug in card to take measurements so I soldered fly wires to the points on the PCB that I want to measure.
The first thing to check is the bridge rectifier and make sure it's putting out around 10.8vDC.
There is a fair amount of heat generated here and I replaced mine with an 8A bridge rectifier instead of the 4 diodes.
If the supply is good then remove and test (or replace) the bottle cap transistor at Q20 (2N3055) which is located to the right of the bridge rectifier in the image above. If neither of these are at fault then the next step would be to confirm that IC1 (TL071 op amp) is good and that pins 2 & 3 are both getting 4.3v you might want to check the 4.3v zener diode at D20 if the voltage is incorrect at pin 3 of IC1. I've also had Q19 fail on a friends board.
Connecting the game board up on a test bench is quite easy, I use a PC power supply to provide 5v (or an arcade PSU) and connect the video to the AV input of any TV. No other connections are needed just to test if the board is powering up but the bats won't be visible if the four 5K pots aren't connected.
Pinout below shows the connector pins on the PCB, not the plugs.