WTB: Nintendo Monitor - DK Cab

JRoz

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Hey Guys,

I just bought a DK cab and the monitor looks very dark and is only showing pictures in a very dark blue color. I'm looking to get it capped but from my phone conversation with a local monitor repairman he believes it sounds like the tube is blown. As a back up I'm looking for a great quality monitor I can stick in my DK cab. Looking for something with minor to little burn and preferbly something that was capped or just looked nice and sharp.

thanks
Jason
 
recap it, test color transistors. then if that doesn't work, give it a rejuve. i've brought a couple monitors back that were missing colors with a rejuvenator.
 
ok so maybe this guy was wrong. I am probably not going to cap it myself..what exactly is a rejuvenator hah.
 
If you're not comfortable with doing a cap kit, I wouldn't mess around with a rejuvenator.

A rejuvenator will connect to the back of the tube with special adapters to make it fit on the pins. It will also connect where the anode cup from the flyback goes. There are different settings that have to be set correctly on the rejuvenator for the specific tube. If you set it incorrectly, you can very easily damage the tube. Losing colors could be as simple as dirt on the CRT guns. A rejuvenation will clean the guns among other stuff.
 
Yea I mean I probably would do it but I dont really know where to begin. if I had someone that knew what they were doing helping out it would be easier. This guy quoted me 75 bucks to cap the monitor..does that sound like a good price? I dont even know if he knows about a rejuvenator hah
 
Seems really expensive to me, but if it is a business, they have to charge something for labor.
Cap kit itself - 20EZ 13"/19" - Deluxe Kit [Plus & Audio Bd Kit] - $12.00
 
do you know if these come with instruction manuals..or know anyone that does these on the forum? I think I would either kill myself or kill the board in the process
 
Cap kit instructions? There are pictures online of where each cap goes and the correct polarity. I think Bob Roberts might even include one with his kit.

If you've never soldered before it's probably not the best place to start, but it is doable.
 
Bob Roberts includes a cap list. You start from the top and check off each one you do. All you are doing is desoldering the old, make note of which lead is positive, then install new cap, solder in, and trim excess lead wire.

Here is a main board cap map, but there is also the neck & audio boards.

sanyo_20ez_cap_map1Medium.jpg
 
Bob Roberts includes a cap list. You start from the top and check off each one you do. All you are doing is desoldering the old, make note of which lead is positive, then install new cap, solder in, and trim excess lead wire.

Here is a main board cap map, but there is also the neck & audio boards.

sanyo_20ez_cap_map1Medium.jpg


that is not a full cap map there are several missing locations that are not marked that i saw.

i have some really nice almost burn free sanyo's ready if you are in the area.
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=203299

i can do your cap job as well if you need it done. pm me.

Peace
Buffett
 
I am not sure if I would recommend doing a 20exz for a first cap project. The chassis is a bitch to get out and you have to take off the sound board and inverter (?) board as well. Save yourself a few hours of frustration and pay the piper. It's worth the money, trust me.
 
ok in that case all I would do is disconnect the entire monitor frame correct? I still have a locked back door so I can't even see whats going on back there yet hah. But i'm assuming I need to unplug the power cord, and unplug the cord from the monitor to the power supply correct? Do I need to discharge the monitor as well? I've watched a few vids online using the grounded flathead and discharging under the suction cup.
 
If you haven't even gotten the back door off the problem could be as simple as adjusting the brightness.
 
haha very true. I should have a key within a week or two. Really hoping that is the case, but the only thing is the sound seems to go in and out at certain times. Is it possible for these machines to just lose its colors or brightness even if no one touches them? This guy claimed its been like this for awhile and got them from a friend. Anyways once I get to it, the dials are just on the side of the chassis right?
 
Are you only getting blue? If your missing the other colors it might be bad transistors on the neck board. You can test the tube colors really easily. I also have a good tube but Im all the way in Iowa
 
Yea i'm only getting blue it seems like. I'll check that out when I get a key in a week or two but it looks like the attached. How do I test the tube colors?
 

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Take a wire with gator clamps at both ends. Ground one end on the frame then touch the back of the neckboard where the pins touch. It should ground it out and display a solid color. If you can get all 3 colors the tube is good and you just need new transistors which is super easy.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lKOK6QB9frM
Watch this also watch some of his other videos before attempting because they are pretty good.
 
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