WTB: Atari Warlords or Asteroids Power Brick

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I picked up a Warlords UR and it is dead. I was able to determine that it was the power brick.

Looking for Atari Power bricks A036099-01 or A034561- As it looks like I can use an Asteroids Power Brick in a Warlords as well??
 
There isn't much to the brick. It's almost surely either the rectifier, or the main filter cap (aka 'big blue,) both of which can be replaced pretty easily.

Worst case, I have a new brick I could sell you, but you'd be much better off trying to fix yours first.
 
There isn't much to the brick. It's almost surely either the rectifier, or the main filter cap (aka 'big blue,) both of which can be replaced pretty easily.

Worst case, I have a new brick I could sell you, but you'd be much better off trying to fix yours first.


I could try swapping big blues with one of my other Atari games for troubleshooting sake. I get AC coming from J2 but nothing at all from J5.
 
Test the two diodes with your DMM first.

Remove the board with the two diodes on it from the big blue. Put the DMM in diode mode, and measure across each diode. You should get approximately 0.5-0.7V in one direction, and OL in the other direction, for each diode.

If either one is shorted, or you get OL in both directions, then the diode is bad.
 
Test the two diodes with your DMM first.

Remove the board with the two diodes on it from the big blue. Put the DMM in diode mode, and measure across each diode. You should get approximately 0.5-0.7V in one direction, and OL in the other direction, for each diode.

If either one is shorted, or you get OL in both directions, then the diode is bad.

Oh I already did that and I got a reading on both in one direction, but I didn't remove the board from big blue first.
 
ok well I just did it again but disconnected it from big blue first and got the 5 on both in one direction. Other direction is open.
 
That's the wrong one. That one is for Kangaroo, Millipede, Centipede. Yea no dice on this yet but I haven't had time to really mess with it anymore. Will probably try and fix what I have if possible.
 
That's the wrong one. That one is for Kangaroo, Millipede, Centipede. Yea no dice on this yet but I haven't had time to really mess with it anymore. Will probably try and fix what I have if possible.

false. that's what the idiot seller put in the description. kangaroo/millipede/centipede does NOT use the A006555-01 half-wave bridge rectifier pcb! :)
 
Flip the brick over and open it. Power it up, and be careful, as everything will be live.

Measure for AC at the inputs of the diodes on the rectifier, by putting your meter in AC mode, and putting the leads on the orange wires that go into the board with the diodes on it. What do you get?
 
I'm glad that link wasn't to one of my ebay sales for power bricks. Centi/Millipede blocks aren't the same for your warlords.

These things are damn simple to figure out and fix. Follow the advice given here already after replacing big blue. Here's a video by d0kert on checking the basic voltages that might help: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S_So4XEpG4o

Also be sure you orientate yourself correctly to d0kerts video vs. the schematics correctly. I made that mistake going from asteroids deluxe to asteroids (the blocks are flipped 180 between the two) so I messed myself up on asteroids initially. Derp.

And if your warlords power block DOES have a bad line filter, I have an extra one from an Asteroids block, but I do not know if it's compatible with the block in warlords. If so you can have it.
 
I'm glad that link wasn't to one of my ebay sales for power bricks. Centi/Millipede blocks aren't the same for your warlords.
yes correct, we're WELL aware the centi/milli blocks are not the same for warlords. like i said earlier above, the SELLER is the idiot that described their power block incorrectly.

These things are damn simple to figure out and fix. Follow the advice given here already after replacing big blue. Here's a video by d0kert on checking the basic voltages that might help: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S_So4XEpG4o
no need to replace big blue in this case. not yet at least. the filter cap is NOT the issue here.

Also be sure you orientate yourself correctly to d0kerts video vs. the schematics correctly. I made that mistake going from asteroids deluxe to asteroids (the blocks are flipped 180 between the two) so I messed myself up on asteroids initially. Derp.

And if your warlords power block DOES have a bad line filter, I have an extra one from an Asteroids block, but I do not know if it's compatible with the block in warlords. If so you can have it.

atari-warlords-ac-line-filter.jpg


we tested/DMM'd before AND after the AC line filter. the filter is 100% perfect.

Flip the brick over and open it. Power it up, and be careful, as everything will be live.

Measure for AC at the inputs of the diodes on the rectifier, by putting your meter in AC mode, and putting the leads on the orange wires that go into the board with the diodes on it. What do you get?

atari-warlords-power-input-circuitry.jpg


^ a mostly useless and confusing schematic... ^

atari-A006555-rectifier-pcb.jpg


^ that's the A006555 half-wave bridge rectifier pcb, i labelled accordingly... ^

atari-warlords-power-supply-wiring-diagram.jpg


^ better schematics that detail exactly the flow of current and how to test it ^
 
^ that's the A006555 half-wave bridge rectifier pcb, i labelled accordingly... ^


Your picture is incorrect.

The AC comes out of the transformer, goes out/up to the fuse block, then comes back down to the inputs of the rectifier board, where you have your orange arrows. It goes through the diodes (following the direction marked by the diodes on the PCB), gets rectified, then smoothed by the filter cap, which is where the "10.3" VDC should be (which is usually actually closer to 13V on most bricks.) The lug of the filter cap is the DC output, not the two wires where your orange arrows are.

Check to make sure you don't have something wired up backwards, as your understanding appears to be switched around.
 
Your picture is incorrect.

The AC comes out of the transformer, goes out/up to the fuse block, then comes back down to the inputs of the rectifier board, where you have your orange arrows. It goes through the diodes (following the direction marked by the diodes on the PCB), gets rectified, then smoothed by the filter cap, which is where the "10.3" VDC should be (which is usually actually closer to 13V on most bricks.) The lug of the filter cap is the DC output, not the two wires where your orange arrows are.

Check to make sure you don't have something wired up backwards, as your understanding appears to be switched around.

ugh, yer right. i reversed the IN/OUT and vac/vdc.

*** i have edited the photo and now its showing 100% correct yay!
 
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This may be a long shot but it was the source of my Asteroids issue, have you tried disconnecting the coin door molex? One of the lines runs off the block to the door, and something on my door was causing a short/power sink. Disconnected it and all the voltages to the monitor were correct. Maybe your problem is also simple :)
 
This may be a long shot but it was the source of my Asteroids issue, have you tried disconnecting the coin door molex? One of the lines runs off the block to the door, and something on my door was causing a short/power sink. Disconnected it and all the voltages to the monitor were correct. Maybe your problem is also simple :)

OMG NO! did we try this bootleg? could be worth a shot!

but i dunno. we had 2 p/s side-by-side, testing them in sync, and my atari block was 100% perfect in all tests, and bootleg's did not come up with any voltage... onwards to more testing i guess!
 
Measure the AC at the input to the rectifier board.

If there is no AC, either the transformer is bad, or more likely you have a broken wire, or bad fuse block.

Use your tools, and trace the problem. Don't make it more complicated than necessary.
 
OMG NO! did we try this bootleg? could be worth a shot!

but i dunno. we had 2 p/s side-by-side, testing them in sync, and my atari block was 100% perfect in all tests, and bootleg's did not come up with any voltage... onwards to more testing i guess!

Bootleg? What?
 
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