WTB: 25" P538 K7000 chassis

Sorry, I was traveling today. Looks like you have a K7000 compatible tube. Can you read the numbers on the yoke? It's the thing on the neck of the tube with the wires hanging off. WG used the same tubes for medium and standard resolution monitors, but the yokes were different. Standard resolution were MUCH more common, but it would be good to check before you spend the money.

We're going to hope that the tube is in working condition and the addition of the chassis is all you need. Tubes are pretty robust, so it's a good assumption, but they do eventually become dim. The K7000 is actually a very good chassis. They only reason why you see the repair sticky for them is because they're so common.

The previous poster is exactly right, in that you need an isolation transformer to run this chassis without damaging it. Make SURE you have one before you plug it in.

If you decide you want the chassis, PM and I'll send you my paypal address.
 
OK, you are going to have to bear with me. I've tried to read up on the isolation transformer issue and I am still not exactly clear on what I need to do. I've read that all K7000 chassis need an isolation transformer, but they don't come with one?
 
Tube images...

Here is every angle I think you need. I am sure I missed one, so let me know. I saw no isolation transformer in the bottom of the cabinet so I tried to take a couple of shots of the power supply that's in my cabinet. Guess I'll start shopping around for an isolation transformer...
 

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that looks like a k7000 tube yoke, and frame.

no iso explains why the old chassis blew.... these REQUIRE one..

youre looking for a "p538" chassis with a 10 pin neckboard

this: http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=194855&highlight=k7000+chassis

should plug and play, plus its got the remote board which is nice...

I'm not so sure now. Looks like the yoke wires were split. That means U2000 or U5000 not K7000. That would also fit with the lack of isolation transformer as those two models have a switching power supply and don't need one. You need to read the numbers off of the yoke and post them. That K7000 chassis won't work for long if you hook it to the wrong yoke.
 
I'm not so sure now. Looks like the yoke wires were split. That means U2000 or U5000 not K7000. That would also fit with the lack of isolation transformer as those two models have a switching power supply and don't need one. You need to read the numbers off of the yoke and post them. That K7000 chassis won't work for long if you hook it to the wrong yoke.

doesent mean anything, people cut those yoke connectors to make the image rotate or flip..

ohm out the yoke and i can compate it to a known k7000 yoke i have.
 
Look for one of these two numbers. You may need to remove and clean the tube and frame with 409 and a hose to see them. Don't scrub the yoke. Just spray it off:

U2000: 009A2988-001

K7000: 9A2911-001
 
i think the original monitor went and this was put it, priginal didnt use a iso, this one does, boom.

im telling ya man that even looks like a k7000 frame.
 
I'll take a look. When I bought the cabinet, it had a tube in it, but the burn-in was pretty bad. They guy had a similar model he picked up at the same auction which was a newer model with no burn-in. The pictures are from the "new" one that I plan to swap out once I get it up and running...
 
Cadillacnan is right. Ohm it out and let us know.

K7000 and U2000 tubes are actually the same. Only the yoke is different. The monitor frames may also appear identical. U2000s were the newer "replacement" for the K7000 but were fraught with so many failures that WG withdrew them and replaced them with the K7400. A K7000 will drive a U2000s yoke (I've done it) but it will stress it unnecessarily and cause it to fail prematurely.

If it turns out the burn free tube is a has a U2000 yoke on it, you can switch it with the K7000 one. Converging (adjusting the position of the yoke) a monitor can be a pain, but you said you wanted to learn new stuff!!
 
OK, so I can't find any of those numbers anywhere on the monitor, but I haven't cleaned it yet. However, I did notice that the someone clearly split the wire connector right in the middle. Seems like you guys already noticed that though...
 
I'm not so sure now. Looks like the yoke wires were split. That means U2000 or U5000 not K7000. That would also fit with the lack of isolation transformer as those two models have a switching power supply and don't need one. You need to read the numbers off of the yoke and post them. That K7000 chassis won't work for long if you hook it to the wrong yoke.

doesent mean anything, people cut those yoke connectors to make the image rotate or flip..

ohm out the yoke and i can compate it to a known k7000 yoke i have.

i think the original monitor went and this was put it, priginal didnt use a iso, this one does, boom.

im telling ya man that even looks like a k7000 frame.

OK, so I can't find any of those numbers anywhere on the monitor, but I haven't cleaned it yet. However, I did notice that the someone clearly split the wire connector right in the middle. Seems like you guys already noticed that though...


The K7400/K7500/U2000/U5000 yokes are split like someone cut them too. They are not made as 2 separate housings. They were cut in the factory because the yoke was shipped with a solid connector and those chassis' didn't have the two sets of yoke pins in a single line like the K7000.

That being said, the mounting under the tube looks like a K7000 all right, but the yoke doesn't really look like a WG K7000 yoke. It might be a Zenith K7000A yoke which will work with a regular K7000 chassis...
 
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