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kjeffery
New member
you win some, you lose some
Would you pay 100$ for a Street Fighter 2 with bad monitor?
- Thread starter kjeffery
- Start date
you win some, you lose some
mudmantim
Active member
copious
Well-known member
It's examples like this that teach us the most valuable lessons
ScumBum
Well-known member
haha that was funny !
LyonsArcade
Well-known member
I still don't get the big deal. A little paint, some new t-molding, a new piece of wood for the back door, clean the control panel = nice game.
If you need any help figuring any of that out or getting it working, p.m. me and I'll walk you through it.
If you need any help figuring any of that out or getting it working, p.m. me and I'll walk you through it.
mudmantim
Active member
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kjeffery
New member
Yes thanks for being supportive, the cab itself doesn't have water damage or anything, I plan on repainting and new tmolding and control pnel overlay and rewire it. I might need your help if I can't figure out how to wire this new isolatore transformer up but it seems failry easy from the diagram I got off bob roberts. I can make it really nice for about 80$ so I domt really feel shitted out
mudmantim
Active member
Was all you did to test it was to plug it in and turned it on?
Did you pull out the interlock switch?
Don't forget to add your time onto that $80.
And, you didn't get what you thought you were getting, so even though you may have your chin up and looking at the glass half full, you apparently did pay way too much for a non-working machine.
Hopefully the boards are actually good and that part of story wasn't just 'a story' to get a buyer.
-Tim
LyonsArcade
Well-known member
If nothing happens when you plug a game in, that's not a very big issue. The guy said it worked, blah blah blah, he put it in storage, blah blah blah. A/C switch, interlock switch, power cord, this is not rocket science.
mudmantim
Active member
Are you forgetting the other part of it? Could be the board.
But yeah, you are right. Buy the working game, with monitor problem for $100, and change every part in it to get it to actually work...great deal there. May has well spent the money on an empty cabinet instead.
Hopefully, with your help, he can get it working.
-Tim
mudmantim
Active member
A few years ago I agreed to purchase a Track 'n Field that worked great. Only problem was the cabinet wasn't in the best shape.
2 hours later, I arrive at the sellers house...scary part of Detroit, see the game and agree that his asking price of $135 was good, so I paid him. I was in a hurry to get it, get out, and get home, so I didn't care about spending too much time discussing it.
The seller was very truthful, stand-up guy, I would deal with him again (so I thought). But, just for the heck of it, I decided that I wanted to see it working. After a while searching for an extension cord he plugged it in and turned it on...nothing. Off, on...still nothing. Off, on...still nothing.
Then he tells me that it does work and that all I have to do, or all they had to do, was flip the power switch from off to on a few times and it would come on...or wiggle the connectors a few times.
His wife was even there to let me know that they had just finished playing a few games on it, but turned it off when they knew I was coming so that it would be ready for me.
Ok, loose connection somewhere, so I still took the dang thing and headed home...another 2 hour drive.
Come to find out, the game board was shot, probably hasn't worked in a long time and the monitor didn't even work.
$135, 4 hours of drive time, not to mention the BS session at his house and nothing came of it.
I ended up giving the whole thing to a guy in a trade deal, because he really wanted a Track 'n Field, even though it didn't work. He ended up tossing it on the fire pit.
My point is that a buyer shouldn't believe everything a seller says, just because the buyer sounds honest.
At least in here, we try to be as truthful as possible selling games to our 'people' but other sellers don't really care.
-Tim
2 hours later, I arrive at the sellers house...scary part of Detroit, see the game and agree that his asking price of $135 was good, so I paid him. I was in a hurry to get it, get out, and get home, so I didn't care about spending too much time discussing it.
The seller was very truthful, stand-up guy, I would deal with him again (so I thought). But, just for the heck of it, I decided that I wanted to see it working. After a while searching for an extension cord he plugged it in and turned it on...nothing. Off, on...still nothing. Off, on...still nothing.
Then he tells me that it does work and that all I have to do, or all they had to do, was flip the power switch from off to on a few times and it would come on...or wiggle the connectors a few times.
His wife was even there to let me know that they had just finished playing a few games on it, but turned it off when they knew I was coming so that it would be ready for me.
Ok, loose connection somewhere, so I still took the dang thing and headed home...another 2 hour drive.
Come to find out, the game board was shot, probably hasn't worked in a long time and the monitor didn't even work.
$135, 4 hours of drive time, not to mention the BS session at his house and nothing came of it.
I ended up giving the whole thing to a guy in a trade deal, because he really wanted a Track 'n Field, even though it didn't work. He ended up tossing it on the fire pit.
My point is that a buyer shouldn't believe everything a seller says, just because the buyer sounds honest.
At least in here, we try to be as truthful as possible selling games to our 'people' but other sellers don't really care.
-Tim
LyonsArcade
Well-known member
I'd buy a broken, but complete SF2 all day long for $100, that's all I'm saying.
Plus it's one of his fav. games, now he owns one. The monitor, board, power supply aren't all dead, it sounds like a good deal to me.
Or he could have waited 5 years to find one for $25, or one that fully works for $100, but I think he did alright. If it's not doing anything, that's likely something simple.
Plus it's one of his fav. games, now he owns one. The monitor, board, power supply aren't all dead, it sounds like a good deal to me.
Or he could have waited 5 years to find one for $25, or one that fully works for $100, but I think he did alright. If it's not doing anything, that's likely something simple.
mudmantim
Active member
I hope he is happy. It's always good to get a new game, even if they turn out not as expected.
Maybe I just missed the part where he actually confirmed that something does indeed work?
Oh, and maybe my problem is that I can't stand those type of games. Same game, different cabinet as all the other fighters in my opinion.
I'm glad he got his favorite game, I really am.
Enjoy.
-Tim
ScumBum
Well-known member
Exactly , if its a game you want , who cares what other people think .
Agreed, I'd have paid $100 for that even after seeing the pictures. To me, totally dead is better than some ways it could be behaving.
add me to the list of people to call on if you need help wiring it, troubleshooting it or fixing it. And I've got a SFII:WW board here that I can send you if it turns out to be a board problem. Your cab looks a helluva lot better than mine and I paid $150 for mine.
NeoTopher
New member
Great advice here. Partially dead and totally dead are 2 separate things, and I think totally dead is the better option of the 2 -- only a handful of causes that equal zero power. Add check your fuses into the above mix, but I'm hedging my bets on your interlock switch being the culprit.
If you aren't familiar with interlocks, it's the white switch on the back of the cab in the door area. It's a push / pull switch and has to be in either position for power but if it is in the neutral state then no power past that point, period. With no door, I bet the switch is neutral. You should set the switch in pull position (it will "lock" into position) or be ghetto and wrap an ass ton of tape around the switch to keep it in the push position.
Hope that makes sense, my coffee has yet to kick in.
Oh yeah, do yourself a favor and just throw away that WW board and throw a real SF game in there like SSF2 or Alpha
you will be much happier with the cab then...
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kjeffery
New member
Got some progress today, comes to find it was the interlock switch, there was 2 instead of one and I didnt notice the other till today. It fired right up despite the monitor issue, it coins up(well with a pushbutton some one installing in the coin slot) here are some pics of what its doing and pics of this old ass monitor
LyonsArcade
Well-known member
Alright, you have an Electrohome G07. You also have no horizontal deflection. The LIKELY reason is either bad solder joints on the yoke, yoke wires that aren't connecting properly (I had one do that yesterday!) or bad solder joints.
G07's are notorious for having a distorted image. If you're decent with soldering, I would suggest putting one of Bob Robert's rebuild kits in it. Go ahead and replace the flyback at the same time; if you don't, it's likely to burn up shortly after you do a capkit. New flyback, new capkit, resolder anything that looks like it has cold solder joints, and you'll have a nice picture on your monitor.
You may want to give your horizontal width coil (in the back, on the right I think) a look, if it's broken it'll still work, but if it's completely broken in half at the wire it'll do exactly what's wrong with yours.
Good news is you have Vertical deflection! LOL.
G07's are notorious for having a distorted image. If you're decent with soldering, I would suggest putting one of Bob Robert's rebuild kits in it. Go ahead and replace the flyback at the same time; if you don't, it's likely to burn up shortly after you do a capkit. New flyback, new capkit, resolder anything that looks like it has cold solder joints, and you'll have a nice picture on your monitor.
You may want to give your horizontal width coil (in the back, on the right I think) a look, if it's broken it'll still work, but if it's completely broken in half at the wire it'll do exactly what's wrong with yours.
Good news is you have Vertical deflection! LOL.
LyonsArcade
Well-known member
OH, P.S. your four wires in front of the flyback on that big plug are your yoke connections. While somebody's watching the front, very, very carefully (so you dont' touch anything else!) wiggle the red wire, and wiggle the white wire. If that makes your image pop out wide, carefully see why those two aren't making good connection.
LyonsArcade
Well-known member
OH, just noticed something else. Before you turn it on next time, see that big thick wire hanging off the right side of the tube? That goes to the ground on the neck board. I don't believe that would cause the problem you're having, but it just might cause others if you don't plug it in. If you carefully remove the neckboard (power off) by gently pulling it straight back off the pins on the tube, you'll see a flat prong that might be labeled ground, or "grd" or something like that, it should be shiny and not as dusty as the rest of the parts, because that plug slides over that, grounding your chassis to the tube.
