Would this ZIF fit on my ZPU-1000 Berzerk board?

No. That's a 16 pin .3 width socket. You want a 24 pin (or 28, I forget what ROMs that game uses) .6 width socket.

Also, be sure there is enough clearance around the ROM sockets - the ZIF ones are bigger all around, and you might not be able to install them if the chip sockets are too close together.

-Ian
 
.3 or .6 is the width of the IC package. The distance across the body from pin row to pin row, more or less.
 
Hey Brent,

The last link I posted says it accepts between .3 and .6 dips, will that work?

Thanks
Disjaukifa

Assuming its a 24 pin you need (I can not recall what EPROMs are on Berzerk) then I would say yes. I would double check the dimensions to make sure they will fit side by side on the board. Are you going to remove the old sockets and solder them in or mount them directly to the existing socket??
 
Assuming its a 24 pin you need (I can not recall what EPROMs are on Berzerk) then I would say yes. I would double check the dimensions to make sure they will fit side by side on the board. Are you going to remove the old sockets and solder them in or mount them directly to the existing socket??

I was going to just mount them in place, going for simple here. I actually have two working ZPU-1000 and a working ZPU-1001, but I only have two Berzerk cabinets. I just don't feel like switching out PCBs all the time.

I have to admit I haven't tried that wiring you showed me, its what I plan on doing with the spare ZPU-1000, but if that doesn't work I want a backup plan :cool:
 
I think you are asking for trouble. Factory sockets from most, if not all, of the manufacturers tend to be flimsy/low end single wipe models. Even if it was the hot shot design of the day their modern equivalents are much better. Take that socket and literally hang a heavy device from it capped with a chip and subject all of it to movement as you open and close the socket. I can see it being a nightmare of intermittent connections.
I would not even do it with a "modern" socket. You really need to pull the old sockets and solder in the ZIF's.
 
Wait, you just want to switch back and forth between two sets of ROMs? That's it? I thought you were doing a lot of experimenting or something.

Don't waste your time with ZIF sockets. Just use ROMs twice as large, burn both sets of data into the chips (one set lower bank, next set upper bank), bend out the upper address pins, tie them all to a toggle switch between 5v and ground (use resistors too), and be done with it. That way you can select between two sets of ROM chips with a single toggle switch.

-Ian
 
Wait, you just want to switch back and forth between two sets of ROMs? That's it? I thought you were doing a lot of experimenting or something.

Don't waste your time with ZIF sockets. Just use ROMs twice as large, burn both sets of data into the chips (one set lower bank, next set upper bank), bend out the upper address pins, tie them all to a toggle switch between 5v and ground (use resistors too), and be done with it. That way you can select between two sets of ROM chips with a single toggle switch.

-Ian

That is what he is referring to here:
I have to admit I haven't tried that wiring you showed me, its what I plan on doing with the spare ZPU-1000, but if that doesn't work I want a backup plan :cool:
I did something similar, but perhaps a bit simpler, to make a switchable Tempest / Tempest Tubes kit. In my case, it was only one EPROM so the setup was pretty easy.
 
That is what he is referring to here:
I did something similar, but perhaps a bit simpler, to make a switchable Tempest / Tempest Tubes kit. In my case, it was only one EPROM so the setup was pretty easy.

Yeah - that's the same thing. And the wiring is still really easy even with multiple ROMs, you just wire all the upper address pins together in parallel. Still just use one switch. With Tempest/tubes, being only one ROM, and accessible from the coin door, you can just glue the switch right to the ROM ;)

It's a *hell* of a lot faster and easier than changing out all those ROM sockets.

-Ian
 
Yeah I think I will try that out tonight. I need to go get wire and a switch. My biggest issue was I wasn't entirely sure where to connect to a +5 volt power source. Its +5 volts right?

Also what type of switch do I need to be using? I'm hoping its just something I can grab from Radioshack.
 
Yeah I think I will try that out tonight. I need to go get wire and a switch. My biggest issue was I wasn't entirely sure where to connect to a +5 volt power source. Its +5 volts right?
Yeah. +5v. It's logic high. You can also use a 1k pullup resistor if you want, just in case, but you don't need it in this application. You can get 5v from the ROM's power pin, or a nearby power bus anywhere on the board.

It would be recommended to keep the wires to the switch short, and mount it near the ROMs/board somehow. But you would probably be able to get away with running the wires down to the coin door.

Also what type of switch do I need to be using? I'm hoping its just something I can grab from Radioshack.

Just any simple little SPDT toggle switch. Upper address line from the ROMs goes to the middle contact, +5v to one side, ground to the other. Rat Shack will have them. If you wanted to go for overkill, you could probably even use a three way light switch - then you can hack a great big hole in the side of the cabinet for it :)

-Ian
 
I know this is probably NOT the way to do it, but can I just hit wire loops that are on the PCB for the +5 and ground? There easy enough to connect to. I've also thought about tapping into the wiring harness but I'd rather leave that stock because I just got the machine working.

I'm probably going to run the switch to the back side of the coin door because I don't want to accidentally switch the addresses while the game is on, I don't want to risk blowing up my ZPU-1000!

Thanks
Disjaukifa
 
I know this is probably NOT the way to do it, but can I just hit wire loops that are on the PCB for the +5 and ground? There easy enough to connect to. I've also thought about tapping into the wiring harness but I'd rather leave that stock because I just got the machine working.
Don't tap into the wiring. These are little wires. Just solder the power/ground wires you need right to the board, or to one of the ROM chips. You're already soldering the address line wires to the ROM chips, just solder on wires for +5v and ground to the last one in the line. Or, you can pick it up from a decoupling cap next to one of the ROMs. Or, yeah, you could connect to the test point wire loops. It's just not necessary. There is nearly zero current here, these are being used as logic signal wires.

-Ian
 
Don't tap into the wiring. These are little wires. Just solder the power/ground wires you need right to the board, or to one of the ROM chips. You're already soldering the address line wires to the ROM chips, just solder on wires for +5v and ground to the last one in the line. Or, you can pick it up from a decoupling cap next to one of the ROMs. Or, yeah, you could connect to the test point wire loops. It's just not necessary. There is nearly zero current here, these are being used as logic signal wires.

-Ian

Ok,

That makes sense, one more question, and this might be confusing because I'm a completely visual person. I know I have to replace all 6 EPROMs on the board so I can have both the slow bullets and fast bullets version of Berzerk.

I know the address line on the 2716 is pin 21, I know I can pull the ground from pin 12 and the +5 from pin 24 i believe. I getting this information from here:

EPROM Reference

How exactly am I wiring this up? That is the bit that I can't "picture" in my head at the moment. I know I'm going to have a wiring going to all the 21 pins as that deals with the addressing, but wire do the ground and +5 come in? Do they connect just straight to the SPDT switch? I know I'm missing something but then again I'm a visual person, and I just can't picture this in my head at the moment.

Thanks
Disjaukifa
 
I know I have to replace all 6 EPROMs on the board

How exactly am I wiring this up? That is the bit that I can't "picture" in my head at the moment. I know I'm going to have a wiring going to all the 21 pins as that deals with the addressing, but wire do the ground and +5 come in? Do they connect just straight to the SPDT switch? I know I'm missing something but then again I'm a visual person, and I just can't picture this in my head at the moment.

And I am *not* a very visual person... So I've done my best to MSPaint my way to a horrible, ugly diagram.

Remember, you are replacing the 2716's with 2732's (twice as big) that contain both sets of data - for instance, lower bank contains slow bullets, upper bank contains fast bullets. You are selecting which version of the program the game sees by toggling the logic state on the upper address pin (pin 21, A11). When it's tied low, the game only sees the data in the lower half of the ROM, and when it's high, the game sees the data in the upper half of the ROM. It becomes two ROM chips in one.

d8pY4.png


-Ian
 
And I am *not* a very visual person... So I've done my best to MSPaint my way to a horrible, ugly diagram.

Remember, you are replacing the 2716's with 2732's (twice as big) that contain both sets of data - for instance, lower bank contains slow bullets, upper bank contains fast bullets. You are selecting which version of the program the game sees by toggling the logic state on the upper address pin (pin 21, A11). When it's tied low, the game only sees the data in the lower half of the ROM, and when it's high, the game sees the data in the upper half of the ROM. It becomes two ROM chips in one.

d8pY4.png


-Ian

Ian,

you are the MAN! Yeah, I thought it was 2708 that Berzerk came with but your right its 2716, and I have a bunch of 2732 so that's not an issue! That is PERFECT!

Looks like I have a project on my hands tonight!

-Disjaukifa
 
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