Working on a Tempest Cabaret Brick

dethfactor

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Voltage issues on a Tempest Cabaret!

So I got the wiring sorted out on my tempest cabaret and tested it last night a fried an ARII. The ARII was rebuilt and I had working prior its offering to the magic smoke gods. I ended up pulling the brick and building a quick little bench cable to fake the switch/interconnects and my meter was getting all kinds of wacky voltages, even with the power off. I'm going to invest in a new meter (I think mine is toast) and I have a printout of Dokert's Atari brick voltage post but I was wondering if the voltages are different for vectors. There was mention that all vector bricks pinouts are different and I was wondering what the difference.

Thanks,
-M
 
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I fried an AR2 the other day because there are 2 plugs the same on it (2 x 6 pin ones) I got them the wrong way round

Some idiot labeled J6 on the wrong one (J9)

Lucky I had a spare AR2, I see a burnt track, but there could be more, feeding 36VAC into the speaker plug could do damage over and above a burnt track
 
Found this thread with a video to the voltage readings.
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=149216&highlight=atari+brick

Going to test it and see if anything is off.

OK,
So I tested my brick from the video and the 36VAC line is off something crazy, not sure if its the wiring/connectors or the transformer currently. Need to investigate further.
Here's my results:

On +Pin 1,2,3 / -Pin 4,5 = 14.8 to 14.84vdc (should be 10.5 to 14.8vdc)

On +Pin 6 / -Pin 7 = 2.587 - 3.5VAC (should be 36VAC) *WAY OFF

On +Pin 8 / -Pin 9 = 6.5VAC (should be 6.1VAC)

On +Pin 10 / -Pin 11 = 25.43VAC (should be 25VAC)

On +Pin 11 / -Pin 13 = 25.46 VAC (should be 24VAC)

On +Pin 10 / -Pin 14 = 50.85 VAC (should be 50VAC)


So my 36VAC line is way off and my 6.1VAC is a little off. Figured I'd post my findings in case someone needs the pin readings since they're different from the raster brick pinout Dokert has posted.


Connector Layout:

*=======*
| - - 13|
| - 11 10|
| 9 8 7 |
| 6 5 4 |
| 3 2 1 |
*=^=^=^=*

So once again for posterity,
the readings should be:

+1,2,3 / - 4,5 = 10.5 - 15VDC
+6 / -7 = 46VAC
+8 / -9 = 6.1VAC
+10 / -11 = 25VAC
+11 / -13 = 25VAC
+10 / -13 = 50VAC
 
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Isn't the 36v centre tapped? you need to put one meter probe on ground (pin4 or 5) and the other on 6 and then 7.

Not sure. I cut/recrimped connectors across the board and am still getting odd AC on 5/6 voltages. When I test across 4 and 6 I get about 18vac which is that 36 halved but it still doesn't explained how this video
In this video he clearly says 4/5 are DC grounds and tests across 6 and 7 and gets 36vac.


Here's a pic of my transformer #
cb93e9f2.jpg


And a the 36v line being off #
729d99c0.jpg
 
Testing Pins
This first section is for DC voltage
(1 - 4) 10.5v DC, (2 - 4) 10.5v DC, (3 - 4) 10.5v DC,
pin 4 - 5 are your grounding pins for DC they are tied together.

These are the pins for AC voltage
(6 - 7) 36 v AC,
(8 - 9) 6.1v AC,
(10 - 11) 25v AC,
(11 - 13) 25v AC
(10 - 13) 50v AC
Pin 11 is split off halfway of the winding
between 10 and 13
Hope this helps!
 
Just making sure you have the (110) voltage plug too.

Also check lines/fuses F4 for pin 6 and F5 for pin 7 since you have
a new fuse block on that brick.

picture.php
 
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If you look at the wiring diagram for Tempest it clearly shows the 36v centre tap going to the same ground pins 4 and 5 as the DC voltage uses. As long as you get 18vac across 4 and 6 and 18vac 4 and 7 I shouldn't worry.
 
If you look at the wiring diagram for Tempest it clearly shows the 36v centre tap going to the same ground pins 4 and 5 as the DC voltage uses. As long as you get 18vac across 4 and 6 and 18vac 4 and 7 I shouldn't worry.

I don't. I had 18VAC across 4 and 6 and 1-2 VAC across 4 and 7. I'm suspect of pin 7.
 
Just making sure you have the (110) voltage plug too.

Also check lines/fuses F4 for pin 6 and F5 for pin 7 since you have
a new fuse block on that brick.

Jim. First off thanks for the great video, I was lost till I stumbled upon it.

I do have the 110 yellow connector inserted.

I went ahead and double checked with both what you and omegaman were saying and traced out the 7 pin. I went ahead a clipped/re-crimped the connects for F5 and I'm now getting 37.7VAC across 6,7 and 18.6VAC across 4 and 6 and 4 and 7. So I think my bricks been repaired! Thanks a ton guys!

1494c64b.jpg
 
Good work!! I oncehad a meter that wouldn't pick up the 36VAC across 6 and 7 but would pick up the 18vac to each....cheap old meter.....not a flashy fluke :)

Thanks! The flashy fluke is a borrow. Plan on getting one soon though. The cheap-o radioshack one took a crap
.
 
Good Deal. I can't wait to hear it's up and running!
I'd shot gun the AR board too! Just an idea to make it more dependable.

Thanks but no champagne and partying yet, ran into some snag with the board I think. Talking it out with Talon2000 about it. He repaired it early last month and I didn't have the parts to put it all together till recently. I need to sort out whats going on with it now. What are you referring to when you say "shotgun" the AR board? Are you referring the "sense mod"? If so all my ARII's are "sensed"

I managed to repair the two ARII's I cooked and the electrical system is stable just the main board doesn't seem to be powered up even though the aux is.
No leds on the main but the aux board has its led glowing.

I also have one of those vectorVGA box's in there subbing for a Color X/Y and it is working AOK.
 
After reflowing the solder on the connectors of the ARII the voltages are a bit better with the +5 being 5vdc and the +15 being a little shy at 14.77vdc. Anyhow after a while of running it starts to act odd and it did this.

 
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"sense mod" - you take a way the ability of the board to increase the 5 volt input to the pcb on connector J7 by connecting pins 1&2 plus 3&6. This prevents r29 from roasting if the edge connector is poor or if you have failing parts on the pcb.
 
"sense mod" - you take a way the ability of the board to increase the 5 volt input to the pcb on connector J7 by connecting pins 1&2 plus 3&6. This prevents r29 from roasting if the edge connector is poor or if you have failing parts on the pcb.

Yep. I already fried a centipede board and ARII due to poor connectors. I'd rather keep my boards running and it's easily reversible.
 
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