Working Burgertime PCB for Trade or Sale

dj dns

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After picking up this second Burgertime machine and talking with Superbee I just found out that there are two different versions of Burgertime boards. I have two extra working Bally version boards, but both of my Burgertime games uses the Deco version. So I will offer an even trade for my Bally version board for a Deco version board. I would also consider selling one for $100 shipped.
 
be careful. I am not sure if they made a stand alone deco board(I think they did). The deco burgertimes that I have are board cages that use cassette loading with a security dongle. The tapes fail and cant be replaced.

if you have that version, you need to contact dave widel about his multi board.

if you have real burgertime boards, I would try to use them.
 
I have the original Burgertime cabinet & stand alone boardset. The Bally and Deco boardset look just alike, but I believe they are pin different. It says DECO on one of the two boards. It is not the cassette tape version.
 
Here is the Deco boardset found in Bally/Midway Burgertime: (Peter Hirschberg's Burgertime had this boardset in it. My Burgertime has this boardset in it too)

http://www.quarterarcade.com/GamePicture.aspx?c=&g=2949&o=1&m=0&i=1&t=6

Here is the Bally/Midway PCB: (this is the version that dj_dns is trading)

http://www.quarterarcade.com/GamePicture.aspx?c=&g=2949&o=0&m=0

Both look the same, and both are found in this cab:

Burgertime%20-%2010.JPG


But both boards, have differnet pinouts. So if you have a cab with a deco boardset, then you need to find the same boardset to replace it, and vice-versa.
 
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Are you sure they have different pinouts? I've not seen another reference to differen't pinouts, but have heard the only difference is when you turn it on you will see one refer to data east only and the other will say data east manufactured by bally midway.
 
IIRC, these two boards have the same pinout. The only thing that may differ is the sync on the small connector. Some boards will not have a composite sync on there... you have to use the separate H and V syncs.

Matt

Here is the Deco boardset found in Bally/Midway Burgertime: (Peter Hirschberg's Burgertime had this boardset in it. My Burgertime has this boardset in it too)

http://www.quarterarcade.com/GamePicture.aspx?c=&g=2949&o=1&m=0&i=1&t=6

Here is the Bally/Midway PCB: (this is the version that dj_dns is trading)

http://www.quarterarcade.com/GamePicture.aspx?c=&g=2949&o=0&m=0

Both look the same, and both are found in this cab:

But both boards, have differnet pinouts. So if you have a cab with a deco boardset, then you need to find the same boardset to replace it, and vice-versa.
 
IIRC, these two boards have the same pinout. The only thing that may differ is the sync on the small connector. Some boards will not have a composite sync on there... you have to use the separate H and V syncs.

Matt

The problem that we had is that the edge connector has keys in it, and it wont fit onto the bally board, if you remove the keys, the connector fits, but the pins on the board don't line up with the edge connector pins.
 
The problem that we had is that the edge connector has keys in it, and it wont fit onto the bally board, if you remove the keys, the connector fits, but the pins on the board don't line up with the edge connector pins.

Yes, you have to be very careful aligning the connector... or you'll screw things up bad.
 
ok, so it will 'work' but you must be very cautious. Basically, it's best to just match harness to board rather than half ass it like superbee said originally.
 
I wouldn't even try to power the game on with it not lined up correctly. There are some pins that are more than halfway off from lining up. That will create resistence which will burn up the board. I guess we can just find the correct edge connector. But it would be nice to have the correct boardset and not mess with the wiring.
 
I have both boards. The smaller DECO (non tape) branded board and the larger Bally branded board. Both boards have the same pin-outs and both fit and work in my cabinet. The only difference I see is the Bally board is about 20% longer.
 
I wouldn't worry about resistance, any fried traces are a result of a short and them simply burning up like a fuse. Because of low voltages etc., the size of the connector and contacts is more for reasons of mechanical asthetics than electrical needs.

What I would worry about, is the fact the contact is so close to another, and all it takes is some jerk to bump the cab for whatever reason and shift the connector to then short a circuit.

I wouldn't even try to power the game on with it not lined up correctly. There are some pins that are more than halfway off from lining up. That will create resistence which will burn up the board. I guess we can just find the correct edge connector. But it would be nice to have the correct boardset and not mess with the wiring.
 
breaking_news_thread_resurrected.jpg


Here is the Deco boardset found in Bally/Midway Burgertime: (Peter Hirschberg's Burgertime had this boardset in it. My Burgertime has this boardset in it too)

http://www.quarterarcade.com/GamePicture.aspx?c=&g=2949&o=1&m=0&i=1&t=6

Here is the Bally/Midway PCB: (this is the version that dj_dns is trading)

http://www.quarterarcade.com/GamePicture.aspx?c=&g=2949&o=0&m=0

Both look the same, and both are found in this cab (image removed)

But both boards, have differnet pinouts. So if you have a cab with a deco boardset, then you need to find the same boardset to replace it, and vice-versa.

I'm really stumped over this... Both pcb's referenced above claim to be different (bally/midway vs deco), yet both pcb photos BOTH are the same deco pcb.

What was never shown in this thread is the actual BALLY/MIDWAY pcb:

bally-pcb-IMG_3118.jpg


The reason I'm bringing this up now (I searched the entire internet and came up short - ony 1 thread on klov does it even get props - http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=149955 ) is for someone to explain the mystery between the -B333 and -D333 sound i/o pcb's. The normal pcb (-D333) is what is in the actual manual/schematics. The oddball pcb that isn't referenced anywhere in the universe is this -B333 pcb. No schematics exist. Nothing. Is there any explanation for this?
 
If you have an extra working Bally version for sale for $100 shipped, I'd be interested.
Let me know, thanks.
 
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