Wood Replacement on Atari Cabinets

D_Harris

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 27, 2008
Messages
2,518
Reaction score
51
Location
Staten Island, New York
For those who have done work in line with replacing disintegrating or swollen MDF on Atari cabinets do you recommend plywood as a substitute or MDF?

I have to cut off and replace the wood at the bottom of both sides of a Pole Position II cabinet and was initially thinking of using plywood as a replacement along with wood braces inside the cabinet, but I was wondering what everyone thought about using MDF instead since that was the original material used.

I'd edge glue the new pieces in, but I would still use wood strips to brace where the edges join. (After that would be Bondo, prime and paint).

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
 

Attachments

  • PPLB.JPG
    PPLB.JPG
    71.9 KB · Views: 70
  • PPRB.JPG
    PPRB.JPG
    41.4 KB · Views: 51
With plywood, you'll need a lit of Bondo and finishing to get a smooth outside finish. Additionally, if you're going to cut out large pieces, you'll want to attach it with wood biscuits, and cutting the grooves for those will be easier and neater in MDF than in plywood.
 
It was particleboard, not MDF. Use like materials. Edge to edge joint - best joinery method would be biscuits and glue.

The issue with unlike materials is that they expand and contract at different rates, one may be more likely to warp, etc.. While you 'could' use plywood, I think it would be a huge mistake. Plywood likes to warp. Particleboard, as sh*tty of a fine woodworking material as it is, is dimensionally stable, especially in a HUO environment. If you use biscuits (or dowels), Titebond or Elmers Wood Glue, and same material, the joint should be unbreakable and need a minimal amount of filler at the seam.
 
Last edited:
I use Titebond glue. I don't have a Biscuit jointer, but my plan is to glue a simple edge to edge joint, and then lay that side of the cabinet down on a piece of MDF with weights inside the cabinet over the seam so that it'll dry perfectly lined up. Then I'll glue a strip over the seam inside the cabinet for support.

Then Bondo, prime, and paint the outside, and I'm done.

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
 
Edge to edge has no strength at all even with internal bracing. Any subsequent movement of the cab could result in a crack across the glue line. Couldn't you hire/rent/borrow a biscuit jointer ?, failing that a lap joint (really needs a router) as then you would have 3 gluing surfaces as opposed to one.

Andy.
 
Edge to edge has no strength at all even with internal bracing. Any subsequent movement of the cab could result in a crack across the glue line. Couldn't you hire/rent/borrow a biscuit jointer ?, failing that a lap joint (really needs a router) as then you would have 3 gluing surfaces as opposed to one.

Andy.

Actually if it is edge glued correctly the glue joint would be stronger than the particle board. Biscuits would only help in aligning, but as I mentioned I have a different method. (If the cabinet was plywood, I'd route grooves so I could use splines).

The only issue for me is whether or not the difference in expansion between certain materials would be great enough to be a concern. (But I'll stick with using particle board as a reparation material.

Actually, another issue is whether I can make a paint job seamless since the original particle board has what looks like a white vinyl covering.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
 
A butt joint is plenty strong but ONLY if both edges are very sharp and square. If you can't get that, then a biscuit or some other reinforcement is required as this type of repair is a weight bearing one.
 
You can pick one up at harbor freight real cheap I bought a year ago for less the $40. I was scared to use it but it's pretty easy and works great. I have found myself using it for other projects around the house
 
I was thinking about this today.. glued edge to edge joints do happen in fine woodworking, BUT.. it's hardwood and clamped up. For particleboard glued edge to edge, I think the results would be fairly disappointing. That glue joint probably wouldn't hold up. Biscuits would be useful here. The cheapest biscuit joiner that I can think of would be Ryobi. I read a review and while on the cheaper end of things, it looked to be good bang for the buck.
 
You can glue edge to edge with real timber and it will be strong but not with particle board, the particle board itself is the weakness, doesn't matter how good the glue is, a straight line will break if stressed enough and enough stress is introduced when moving a cab.

Biscuits do not just provide a good lineup, they expand in the cavity so if clamped together properly with enough bickies, the joint will be stronger than original side.

Been fitting kitchens for 20+ years, I know all about particle board ;)
 
Back
Top Bottom