Wizard of Wor?

Here are two more shots.
 

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Well - picked it up today. I am going to work on it a bit tonight and take some pictures. Its not working currently. I arrived and he attempted to get it working - marquee and power to monitor but no game. I told him given it could be anything I would only go $200 and he took it.

So I am going to need some help with this one....

But for the price I am looking at it as my restoration baptism of fire... :)

First off, get this through your head: You'll be fine, and it will be up and running in no time. I brought a Pole Position back from beyond and it was in worlds worse shape than this thing. (I'll link both threads on it at the bottom of this post.)

Second: Okay, you ordered a new PS... that's all well and good, but it really COULD be something simple. Go ahead and run the "pre-flight"(as I like to call it): Check your connections, fuses, and voltages. This will hurt nothing. Look for ANY "bulging" capacitors. I'm assuming you know what they are, so I'll spare you the description. ;)

Grab pictures of the edge connector on the PCB, and look for "cold solder" joints everywhere(do a search down in "General repair" for this term... you're going to need to know this). Fixing those is literally idiot simple.

These are your basic starting points, and probably the most common causes of a game malfunctioning.

If you feel like reading the story of that Pole Position I mentioned earlier.... have some fun:

https://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=356130

https://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=376969
 
Wells Gardner K4600 19" monitor. You're likely going to need to re-cap the chassis...

You could "start" unplugging then re-plugging in the PCB's in the cage. Either BARELY remove then re-insert or remove completely, then look down in to the cage to make sure there are no stray labels before re-inserting. The labels on the PCB dry up and come off and if they get caught in the connector in the cage, it causes problems (obviously).

Also, post the image on your screen.

Can you "coin up" and then play?

When you say no sound... do you mean no sound at all or static or anything?
 
Wells Gardner K4600 19" monitor. You're likely going to need to re-cap the chassis...

You could "start" unplugging then re-plugging in the PCB's in the cage. Either BARELY remove then re-insert or remove completely, then look down in to the cage to make sure there are no stray labels before re-inserting. The labels on the PCB dry up and come off and if they get caught in the connector in the cage, it causes problems (obviously).

Also, post the image on your screen.

Can you "coin up" and then play?

When you say no sound... do you mean no sound at all or static or anything?

Here is the image on the screen. I fooled around a bit with the adjustment dials on the monitor neck - I can change contrast and brightness, and also tint.

I pulled up all the cards as you suggested and re-seated them.

I tried to coin-up but nothing different happens.

No sound - what I mean is literally no sound. The only thing I can hear is the low hum of the CRT itself. No other sound coming out of the unit.
 

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first thing, buy the arcadeshop power supply. don't mess with the boards! don't clean or reseat chips. power first. if you can meter the linear power supply then check it for voltages. if not, just swap the power supply and see where you are at.

http://www.arcadeshop.com/i/931/midway-power-supply-kit-2.htm

take a pic of the monitor pcb. you will probably have to recap it. could be wells 4600 or 4900 or electrohome g07.

wizard of wor is not the easiest game to work on. so take it slow and ask questions. there is a safety interlock on the front door. the boards should slide out through the front.

Power supply arrived today. I installed it according to the instructions and now game fires up - I can hear all the attract mode sounds! However....the monitor and marquee do not power up now. According to the instructions for the power supply I was to simply attach the long 19 pin connector to the new power supply and then connect it to 115v ac. I was to ignore the 12 pin connector as, according to the instructions, it will no longer be used.

However, that means the monitor and marquee are not connected to power. Also, with only the 19 pin connector and the ac power connected, all the safety interlock switches and the power switch are also bypassed. So when I plug the machine it, it powers right up, and the only way to power it down it to unplug it.

So I think the instructions are missing a few important steps. I assume I am going to need to somehow connect the wiring harness that goes to the interlock switches, power switch, and monitor and marquee power. Any tips or places to go to see how this should be done so I don't just start blindly splicing wires together? :)

Thanks for the help so far - I am super excited that the game seems to be working - I just need a little help getting to the finish line so I can actually get the monitor powered up as well...

Edit to further clarify: I have the wall ac wire attached directly to the two 115v power poles on the new power supply. I think I need to connect the new power supply to ac power at another point after all the fuses and interlock switches and such. But I am not sure where exactly it should be connected in line.
 

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Take a look at this article from Bob Roberts. Its a generic configuration but you should be able to apply it to your application.

http://therealbobroberts.net/acwiring.html

Be careful in hooking the AC in to the monitor. The K4600 power must go through the isolation transformer as it does now. Do not bypass it in your AC power setup.
 
Power supply arrived today. I installed it according to the instructions and now game fires up - I can hear all the attract mode sounds! However....the monitor and marquee do not power up now. According to the instructions for the power supply I was to simply attach the long 19 pin connector to the new power supply and then connect it to 115v ac. I was to ignore the 12 pin connector as, according to the instructions, it will no longer be used.

However, that means the monitor and marquee are not connected to power. Also, with only the 19 pin connector and the ac power connected, all the safety interlock switches and the power switch are also bypassed. So when I plug the machine it, it powers right up, and the only way to power it down it to unplug it.

So I think the instructions are missing a few important steps. I assume I am going to need to somehow connect the wiring harness that goes to the interlock switches, power switch, and monitor and marquee power. Any tips or places to go to see how this should be done so I don't just start blindly splicing wires together? :)

Thanks for the help so far - I am super excited that the game seems to be working - I just need a little help getting to the finish line so I can actually get the monitor powered up as well...

Edit to further clarify: I have the wall ac wire attached directly to the two 115v power poles on the new power supply. I think I need to connect the new power supply to ac power at another point after all the fuses and interlock switches and such. But I am not sure where exactly it should be connected in line.

don't do that! Your bypassing everything that way(fuse and ac filter).

http://www.therealbobroberts.net/acwiring.html

that ac wire to the switcher needs to connect to the ac in the cabinet.

I think the manual that comes with it says to tap the monitor power, but that is wrong. Your defeating the isolation transformer.

you should attach it to the wires at the interlock. I am in brain fart mode right now and I forget if its the inner 2 or the outer two(I think outer two). if you cant figure that out, then use the wires that power the marquee light. Just not the monitor or the 3 prong power plug inside the cabinet. the interlock is in the top right of your last pic under the white plastic.
 
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don't do that! Your bypassing everything that way(fuse and ac filter).

http://www.therealbobroberts.net/acwiring.html

that ac wire to the switcher needs to connect to the ac in the cabinet.

I think the manual that comes with it says to tap the monitor power, but that is wrong. Your defeating the isolation transformer.

you should attach it to the wires at the interlock. I am in brain fart mode right now and I forget if its the inner 2 or the outer two(I think outer two). if you cant figure that out, then use the wires that power the marquee light. Just not the monitor or the 3 prong power plug inside the cabinet. the interlock is in the top right of your last pic under the white plastic.

Okay I see. What I did was cut and splice the wire from the wall directly into the new power supply. I see now what I should do is simply tap into power somewhere along the line. Makes sense. This is my first arcade machine restoration and I was thinking that the new power supply would bypass the entire power assembly including all the coils and such - I understand now. I believe I also need to check all the fuses - I took a quick look last night and one of the fuses near the transformer may be blown.

I will re-tap the new power supply tonight and re-connect the transformer to power. Then check the fuses. It may be that a fuse was the problem all along - but I still like the idea of having the new power supply even if the old one actually does work - so its all good.

I was super excited when I heard the game fire up. When I hit the action buttons the wizard tells me to add coins - so I think once I get this wired right I might... *fingers crossed* be all set. Last potential problem could be the CRT - it does not appear to have any burn in - but at 36 years old it might need some work.

Thanks again!
 
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I just picked one up this past weekend at SFGE and was thrilled to get it. Looks great, plays great - a steal at 500 bucks!









Steve
MM
 
Nice machine! Congrats. Mine has some scuffing on the sides which gets into the side art a bit. Also has some paint scuffing on the leading edge of the control panel. Otherwise mine is in pretty great original shape as well. Internals never look to have been touched - not even a spliced wire. I may order new side art - but then I may not and just clean up the scuffing, repaint the coin door and call the rest of the small flaws patina.

I will post more pictures of mine once I (hopefully) get it running - possibly tonight! :)
 
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So I re-wired the new power supply tapping into the marque power lines. Now everything lights up and works - but the monitor has a white screen. I can adjust the brightness and such - but its just a white screen. Game is running - I can hear all the sounds, buttons work, and I can coin up and play.

So - white screen crt - any suggestions? Is cap kit next or could it be something simpler? I checked all the fuses and they look fine. I re-seated all the boards and connections last night but I could do that again I suppose...
 
A steal at $500..

Maybe its the pic, but it looks like blue is too high and red and green are too low. Maybe turn down brightness a hare.

I just picked one up this past weekend at SFGE and was thrilled to get it. Looks great, plays great - a steal at 500 bucks!









Steve
MM
 
did you mess with the monitor? with the power off on all of these.

first I would try reseating the cards on the monitor chassis. any change?

on the back of the card that has the video cable, try turning it 1/4 turn and see if it went darker or brighter.

on the neck board there is a screen voltage pot. you can turn that down and see what happens.



So I re-wired the new power supply tapping into the marque power lines. Now everything lights up and works - but the monitor has a white screen. I can adjust the brightness and such - but its just a white screen. Game is running - I can hear all the sounds, buttons work, and I can coin up and play.

So - white screen crt - any suggestions? Is cap kit next or could it be something simpler? I checked all the fuses and they look fine. I re-seated all the boards and connections last night but I could do that again I suppose...
 
did you mess with the monitor? with the power off on all of these.

first I would try reseating the cards on the monitor chassis. any change?

on the back of the card that has the video cable, try turning it 1/4 turn and see if it went darker or brighter.

on the neck board there is a screen voltage pot. you can turn that down and see what happens.

Okay so:
- reseated the cards on chassis - no change

- turned pot on back of card that video cable is attached to. When I turn it the screen eventually goes black, then when I turn it back it goes slowly returns to a brighter and brighter white color

- the neck board voltage pot - turning changes the shade a bit and adds some color to the white - then turning it back goes back to pure white.

- When I adjust the other pots - for color - I can change the screen to add a tint of color to the white.

Seems to me that the monitor is working, but the video signal is not coming through. Could be the card that the cga cable attaches to on the chassis? Could be the card on the side of the cabinet that the pcb attaches to before the signal goes to the card on the chassis? Too bad I don't have a cga to vga converter or I could try connecting a vga monitor so see if that would work...
 
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Pure white tells you all the colors are firing. Raster solid white suggests no signal at all to me.. When you are "adding" color, what's really happening is you are taking away color. White is the presence of red blue and green.
 
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