Scucci
Well-known member
I don't know what the differences are from the US machine... but looking at the pinout... there are a few.
So, if anyone is interested... here's what I did to get it working.
First... the PS board was toast... smoked all over the place... so we decided to go with a switcher. I removed the bridge rectifiers (all three) to isolate the problem part of the board because I didn't want to hack the harness.
I ran the wires from the switcher and just soldered them to the bottom of the original power supply.
Ran GND from the switcher to the GND rail (black).
Same with +5V to the +5V rail (red).
The blue wire on the harness is +12. There is only 1 connector on the power supply board for +12V, but it feeds something like 3-4 points on the board connectors.
-5V was brown, tacked that on the bottom of the power supply also.
The white/black wire is the RESET line, tie that to GND (or your boards won't boot).
The grey wire I wasn't sure about... but I hooked it to +5V (just ran a jumper down from the +5V rail to the pin that went with the grey wire on the bottom of the connector). It goes to the LM377N and is required for audio. The sound seemed a liiiiitle weak, so it might take as much as +12V, but I didn't want to risk it, so I left it on +5V... I'll look it up a little later.
Again, this was what I had to do. I'm not sure how many difference there are between the US and Japanese boards, but the pinouts I could find for the US Taito version didn't match up with the Japanese version (they did on the main board, but not on the daughter board)...
If anyone else runs into this, I hope this helps you out.
I didn't tinker with the DIP switches too much either, so that's all on you to figure out. There's a 7 POS DIP on the board... but the information I could find said the US version has an 8 POS DIP there... so... YMMV.
So, if anyone is interested... here's what I did to get it working.
First... the PS board was toast... smoked all over the place... so we decided to go with a switcher. I removed the bridge rectifiers (all three) to isolate the problem part of the board because I didn't want to hack the harness.
I ran the wires from the switcher and just soldered them to the bottom of the original power supply.
Ran GND from the switcher to the GND rail (black).
Same with +5V to the +5V rail (red).
The blue wire on the harness is +12. There is only 1 connector on the power supply board for +12V, but it feeds something like 3-4 points on the board connectors.
-5V was brown, tacked that on the bottom of the power supply also.
The white/black wire is the RESET line, tie that to GND (or your boards won't boot).
The grey wire I wasn't sure about... but I hooked it to +5V (just ran a jumper down from the +5V rail to the pin that went with the grey wire on the bottom of the connector). It goes to the LM377N and is required for audio. The sound seemed a liiiiitle weak, so it might take as much as +12V, but I didn't want to risk it, so I left it on +5V... I'll look it up a little later.
Again, this was what I had to do. I'm not sure how many difference there are between the US and Japanese boards, but the pinouts I could find for the US Taito version didn't match up with the Japanese version (they did on the main board, but not on the daughter board)...
If anyone else runs into this, I hope this helps you out.
I didn't tinker with the DIP switches too much either, so that's all on you to figure out. There's a 7 POS DIP on the board... but the information I could find said the US version has an 8 POS DIP there... so... YMMV.
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