Williams System 6 Problem

[Long Hair]

Sooner or later you're going to replace the interconnect. Might as well get it done now. It's less painful in the long run.

I have replaced the female side of the interconnect(Driver board).The game runs in attract mode and when I power it up something energizes on the coin door itself. Maybe someone can point me to a diagram of where the coin door wiring connects to the back-box. I would guess it enters the driver board on the right side closest to the power supply board?

 

[Chris M]

That coil energizing on the front door is the coin lockout relay. Normal operation on bootup.

Chris

 

[Long Hair]

I'm now able to coin-up the machine and play. After unplugging the connector on the right at the top and plugging it back in with the power on I'm now able to coin-up, but the test switch and buttons still won't work. I now have two bumper not working, the top left and the middle one(one I removed). So I guess for now it's time to look under the play field. Maybe the wiring or connector on the driver board need's replaced to fix the audit/test switch? I also think my left flipper so going south.If you hold it in the all the lights dim. Thanks for the reply, much appreciated.

 

[Chris M]

Nice progress. Popbumpers out can either be bad driver components, bad coils, or you need to adjust/celan the contact switches for the popbumper plastic skirts that actuate them. Self test is not extremely critical, but it's hard to say what might be happening. Could even be cracked solder joints on the driver board. Dimming lights with flipper held in - well, not uncommon, but the dimming shold not be severe. Be sure all the contacts for the flippers at the cabinet button AND the flipper switches themselves are very clean.

Chris

 

[craigmack]

If reseating the switch connector got her working, I'd repin both and see what starts working when your done. Then you can focus on actual components not working and not chasing ghosts from a bad switch column or row connector.

 

[Long Hair]

So a looked under the play field and seen the solenoid stuck down.I can manually move it back up and when the ball hits the bumper it works until it gets stuck down again. So I assume when this happens it's time for a new one? Also I remember messing around with the master command and the Diagnostics buttons on the mpu. I had soldered them so I could use on the other board, but to board's are different one as a 6 the other is A6. The legs on the switches are spaced different. If I remember right,I push one of the legs out the top half way, Maybe this is my problem. Is there a way to test the switch on the mpu(check if it's good or bad)? Thanks Travis.

 

[Chris M]

Travis:

Can't say I understand what you are talking about with soldering the switches....but it has nothing to do with your popbumper issues.

QUESTION: Is the popbumper solenoid getting stuck down:

1) On immediate powerup of the game?
2) When actuated by the ball?
3) In either case, does it return up after power is cut off?

Or, does it also hang up when MANUALLY actuated, with power off?

Chris

 

[Long Hair]

Travis:

Can't say I understand what you are talking about with soldering the switches....but it has nothing to do with your popbumper issues.

QUESTION: Is the popbumper solenoid getting stuck down:

1) On immediate powerup of the game?
2) When actuated by the ball?
3) In either case, does it return up after power is cut off?

Or, does it also hang up when MANUALLY actuated, with power off?

Chris

Pop bumper soleniod only sticks after ball hits it or if I manually push it down, This is with and without power.

And the soldering of the switches,has to do with the Audit button in the coin door.The master command and the Diagnostics switch don't do anything, the ones in the back box. Even If I use the dip switch settings(audit mode). I know be for I de-soldered the switches I was able to use the dip switch and audit button to do the self-test, that is when the board was working.

 

[Chris M]

Sticking solenoid w/mechanical hangup usually indicates that the coil got overheated at one time, softened the sleeve, and now the plunger hangs up on it. I suggest you replace that coil. Hopefully the circuit that drives it isn't shorted.

Chris

 

[Long Hair]

I burnt the test rom last night for the mpu board, and I checked on the mpu that would not boot to the game to see if pushing the diagnostic and master command would do anything. It made the leds turn off, so I just tried it on the mpu in the cab and It had no effect. So my ? is I believe the switches go to IC5.What is a good way to test this.The IC5 is a 74ls02 chip, I have a logic probe.Thanks Travis.

 

[Lindsey]

I'll just add that you don't want to use the test ROM (assuming Leon's test ROM) in the machine. It will strobe the PIA outputs which could have disastrous effects. You'll want to use the test ROM with the MPU out of the machine.

 

[Long Hair]

Can someone please suggest a good and cheap place to order a few replacement coils.(SG-23-850-DC) This is for the Left Jet Bumper and Bottom Jet Bumper for Blackout Thanks Long Hair