Williams System 6 Problem

Long Hair

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I need some info please. I have a Blackout Pinball machine and the Board has acid on it. So
I bought a board off of the bay. When I start the machine all 0's are displayed. What might the problem be. And no it's not going into audit mode, but that is what it look's like.
Thanks: Long Hair
 
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yes I have, I swapped out the chip's I could with the old board. processor, memory, etc...
All voltage are good except the NMI which should be 5volts, I'm getting 3.5volts. Before doing all that is listed, I just wanted to see if someone had this problem before to save me a little time and effort.
 
Have you checked the voltages on J6 off the power supply?

If you're not getting 4.9-5.2v at pins 7-10 on J6, you're going to be running in circles.
 
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How do you know it isn't audit mode?

I'm not 100% sure it's not, but it gives no rom version and you can't do anything(showing 0 on all displays). If it is audit mode than maybe it's not reading the flipper rom?, which I believe has the diagnostics on it.
 
Low Voltages

If your voltages are low I would suspect you haven't replaced the 10-15K Capacitor on the power supply? Had to do that on my Pokerino (system 4) before I got the correct voltages. Old one looked fine but it fixed it. Also had to replace the diodes although if you have some power I suspect those are OK. A few things to check out.

Good luck
 
Have you checked the voltages on J6 off the power supply?

If you're not getting 4.9-5.2v at pins 7-10 on J6, you're going to be running in circles.

I'll check that out, but the old board with acid damage still boots up fine. Maybe I missed something. The old board is 6a the new board is 6, I think all the jumper should still be the same.
 
I'll check that out, but the old board with acid damage still boots up fine. Maybe I missed something. The old board is 6a the new board is 6, I think all the jumper should still be the same.

What game are you putting the "new" board in? Are you using the ROMs from your original board? Have you checked that the jumpers match?

The first thing I would do is test the board out of the machine with Leon's test ROM. You could have a RAM or PIA problem. Then jumper it to use EPROMs (if it's not already) and burn fresh game code. You'll most likely also need to replace a bunch of sockets for it to boot reliably. There's really no getting around replacing the sockets if they're original. Then there are all the other preventative maintenance issued like the interconnect connector.

NMI is the non-maskable interrupt pin. When low this interrupts the CPU telling it to stop what it's doing and do something else. In this case the NMI pin is indirectly connected to the test switch so a low signal on the NMI pin tells the CPU to go into test mode.

The pin should be close to +5V but I doubt +3.5V will be low enough for the CPU to consider it low and I don't think that is your problem. You could confirm by connecting TP2 to +5V and see if it boots. If it does I would replace the 7400 at IC24.
 
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Thanks to all for the reply's, but before I can check out all that info I have a new problem. I think I fried a few chip's on my Driver board. I see that a solenoid of mine is black, so my ? is how do I go about removing this. I am a new guy to all this. Here's some pic's if it helps.
 

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first things first you need to figure out what caused it to stick on and burn like that. otherwise you replace it with a new one and the same exact thing will happen...
 
first things first you need to figure out what caused it to stick on and burn like that. otherwise you replace it with a new one and the same exact thing will happen...

When I first got the machine it had and still has bad acid damage on the mpu and driver board. So My guess is the times I turned it on and all the lights came on,but not the game I burnt it up. I replaced the interconnector and when the game came on a 120tp burnt or cracked and I smelt that smell of 7402 ic that went poof. I removed the 120tp and the ic and
tried to power up the game and most of it starts. But went I had the Solenoid fuse in I seen something flash on the power board, located at or around the 100v diode . 100v is for the Display right?
 
Actually, that's a pop bumper, and on a System 6 game they can be directly activated by the switch, without input from the CPU. I'd say you likely have a stuck switch on that pop bumper. Easy enough to check, (After fixing the fried stuff on the driver board, and putting in a new coil), remove the top connector on the left side of the driver board, that's the switch inputs for the special solenoids.

The +100v/-100v is the display power correct.

What do the displays currently show? Usually if they show anything at all, the CPU is booting.

-Hans
 
Actually, that's a pop bumper, and on a System 6 game they can be directly activated by the switch, without input from the CPU. I'd say you likely have a stuck switch on that pop bumper. Easy enough to check, (After fixing the fried stuff on the driver board, and putting in a new coil), remove the top connector on the left side of the driver board, that's the switch inputs for the special solenoids.

The +100v/-100v is the display power correct.

What do the displays currently show? Usually if they show anything at all, the CPU is booting.

-Hans

As of right now nothing. I did see it flicker. But now nothing at all, I can see the dot, so I know it's still getting power, and sometimes the leds on the mpu both go off after powering on,but no lights on the playfield, no sound. But the flippers work, I have removed the solenoid for now.
 
Ok, the last time I posted in here I couldn't get the machine to do anything. I bought some cap's and a 5volt regulator and installed that stuff today, and the machine still didn't do anything so I removed the mpu and added some new sockets for the roms. Just before I stuck the board back in the machine I looked at the back of the 40pin connector.I thought this could be my problem, then I noticed a solder bridge on the 2nd and 3rd pin(if looking at board from backside). Fixed that and now the game boots up. The problem I'm having now is there is no general lighting and I can't get anything on the coin door to work, coin-up,test,etc... Where should I start looking on the driver board? Thanks Travis.
 
Update. I have the general lighting working again.After testing the fuse(fuse reading good). I checked the power going to the fuse. Reading 6volt in and 1volt out, so new fuse fixed the lights but still won't coin up, or go to self test. I have not replaced the solenoid that burnt up, could this be the reason the game won't start? Thanks Travis.
 
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Update. I have the general lighting working again.After testing the fuse(fuse reading good). I checked the power going to the fuse. Reading 6volt in and 1volt out, so new fuse fixed the lights but still won't coin up, or go to self test. I have not replaced the solenoid that burnt up, could this be the reason the game won't start? Thanks Travis.

Travis:

The solenoid won't keep the game from booting but I guarantee that the circuit that is driving it is probably fried on the driver board (if not others). Check the outhole switch and clean the contacts; if the game is a multiball game, it must have ALL the balls in the trough before it will start a game. On coinup, be sure the contacts for the two connectors at the upper right of the driver board are clean, these are the switch input/output ports.

The driver board may still have other issues. If you have a need, i have been a pinball hobbyistt since 1998 and have repaired hundreds of Williams boards of this type. Let me know if can help you any further.

Chris
 
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