Williams System 4 Question

Burt6666

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Anybody know the size of pins on the connector that attaches the MPU to the driver board?The female ends on my driver board have been corroded away on one end.
 
These are the female connectors. The male are standard .156" molex headers.

http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=37&pg=2
product ID: 41815BE-10

If the board is so corroded you can't tell what size the pins are between the MPU and driver board you've got big problems. I've got lots of Williams system 3-7 MPUs.

EDIT: I might have some of these connectors... I'll have to check.
 
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It's only about 2 female connectors that rotted away.The batteries dripped goop in a few places.2 pins and a couple TIP102's got hit.
 
It's only about 2 female connectors that rotted away.The batteries dripped goop in a few places.2 pins and a couple TIP102's got hit.

When replacing these female connectors - always replace the entire set. These connectors have a very limited lifespan as far as number of mating cycles. A couple times on and off - they start to increase resistance resulting in bad connections.

Ed
 
Got the connector issue licked but now another question:are all the solenoids supposed to fire at power on?This thing does and it blows F2 (solenoid power) every time.
 
It's only about 2 female connectors that rotted away.The batteries dripped goop in a few places.2 pins and a couple TIP102's got hit.

That connector is such a problem spot....even ones that look fine to the eye, can have all kinds of issues. Replace them ALL....and never have to worry about it again....and it's not a bad idea to also do the male side. If corrosion is on the female side....it's on the male side (even if it doesn't look like it).

Edward
 
Got the connector issue licked but now another question:are all the solenoids supposed to fire at power on?This thing does and it blows F2 (solenoid power) every time.

That connector you're posting about can cause this :)

Edward
 
That connector you're posting about can cause this :)

Edward

That is 100% correct. Any problems (even slight) with these connectors will turn on all the solenoids. Replace both the male and female connectors all the way across. Otherwise you're just chasing your tail and wasting time.
 
Well....this is my first time working on a Williams SS machine.No schematics unfortunately but learning as I go....

Head here:

http://www.pinrepair.com/sys37/index.htm

All you need to know is in there. If you go step by step through this you will get the game 100%. Every sys 3-7 game i buy gets new connectors, caps, sockets, etc. It will make the game very reliable. I brought back a Time Warp from the dead, rebuilt every board and bench tested using the guide above.

Get someone to burn a copy of Leon's test ROM for you. Here is where I get my roms:

http://www.thatpinballplace.com/eproms/sys37.html

You will have to email John about Leon's rom, it is not listed. He accepts paypal.
 
Making some progress...no more all solenoids on at power up.Just have a few stuck on coils and an inoperative ball kickout to deal with.Time to start testing transistors....
 
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