Williams system 11 coil issue

Evil Reny

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I have a problem with the "Ball Shooter Lane Feeder" coil, Its not firing checked and all fuses are good.

So what's next??

When I turn the game on it acts as normal, push start button and no ball jumps to the shooter lane. I also hear a "clicking" from the relay on the Aux. power drive board.

Any help is great :)
 
I have a problem with the "Ball Shooter Lane Feeder" coil, Its not firing checked and all fuses are good.

So what's next??

When I turn the game on it acts as normal, push start button and no ball jumps to the shooter lane. I also hear a "clicking" from the relay on the Aux. power drive board.

Any help is great :)

You should go to http://marvin3m.com/fix.htm. I don't know a better place for pinball repair.
Others may have some ideas, I'm still learning myself but here's how you can test to see if the coil is good (taken from that site)

Coil Test to Make sure Coil is Good.

Here's another method of testing coils, which is more "low-level". This will test if the coil itself is good, and that there is power at the coil.

Game is on and in "attract" mode, and the playfield lifted.
Connect an alligator clip to the metal side rail of the game.
Momentarily touch the other end of the alligator clip to the GROUND lead of the coil in question. This will be the coil lug with the single (thinner) wire attached. On coils with a diode, the ground coil lug is the one with the non-banded side of the diode connected. On FL11630 flipper coils F-14 Tomcat and later, touch the middle lug to ground.
The coil should fire (if you accidentally touch the alligator clip to the power side of the coil, the game will reset and/or blow a fuse, as you are shorting solenoid high voltage directly to ground).
If the coil does not fire, it may be a coil that is A/C relay selected. Push the center red coin door button down, and press the black button closest to the coin door. This will put the game in diagnostics mode. This should de-energize the solenoid A/C relay, and turn the power to the coil in question on.
If the coil still does not fire, either the coil itself is bad, or the coil's fuse is blown and power to the coil is not present.
 
You should go to http://marvin3m.com/fix.htm. I don't know a better place for pinball repair.
Others may have some ideas, I'm still learning myself but here's how you can test to see if the coil is good (taken from that site)

Coil Test to Make sure Coil is Good.

Here's another method of testing coils, which is more "low-level". This will test if the coil itself is good, and that there is power at the coil.

Game is on and in "attract" mode, and the playfield lifted.
Connect an alligator clip to the metal side rail of the game.
Momentarily touch the other end of the alligator clip to the GROUND lead of the coil in question. This will be the coil lug with the single (thinner) wire attached. On coils with a diode, the ground coil lug is the one with the non-banded side of the diode connected. On FL11630 flipper coils F-14 Tomcat and later, touch the middle lug to ground.
The coil should fire (if you accidentally touch the alligator clip to the power side of the coil, the game will reset and/or blow a fuse, as you are shorting solenoid high voltage directly to ground).
If the coil does not fire, it may be a coil that is A/C relay selected. Push the center red coin door button down, and press the black button closest to the coin door. This will put the game in diagnostics mode. This should de-energize the solenoid A/C relay, and turn the power to the coil in question on.
If the coil still does not fire, either the coil itself is bad, or the coil's fuse is blown and power to the coil is not present.


Thanks for the help, the coil fire when I jumper it , But only after I put it in to diagnostics mode. So does this mean that the fault could be with the relay?
 
Hi, I know that this is an old thread but I wondered if you resloved the problem, I have exactly the same issue with my Williams Jokerz machine, the relay on the Aux power board clicks every 1/2 second or so but no ball appears, did you replace the relay and if so did this cure the issue?

Thanks, Andy
 
Hi again, I have now replaced the aux power board with a new one and the symptoms remain, it seems that the relay was clicking as it didnt detect a ball in play or in the shooter lane.

I have now ordered a replacement coil, I also notice that the 9 pin IDC connector on the distribution board is burned so I will replace that (think it is only for playfield lighting though), any other suggestions gratefully received, getting depressing not being able to play my pin,

Andy
 
I have similiar problem with my Pinbot.Sometime detect that have the ball,sometimes not.It was bad chip on MPU board.I cannot remember wich was,but I can see tomorrow if you want.
Of course you can trace outhole coil connection to MPU board and see wich chip is.It may be bad transistor too
 
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Hi, I am not very proficient at diagnosing pinball, I did check voltage at all the coils in diagnostic mode pausing on each one and all the other (working) 23-800 coils are receiving a pulse of between 7 and 9v when they actuate, the troubled shooter lane coil gets a pulse but only registers under 1v on the multimeter, the coild does activate if 'helped' manually so I do not think the coil is at fault, I have no idea where to start with the main board though to be honest :(

Andy
 
Further thought, it seems from the Jokerz Schematics I have the the relevant transistor for this coil is J6 on the Aux power board, as I have replaced that whole board (and I have just checked the transistor) it seems that this is fine, I am at a loss here, as far as I can tell the Aux power board should have been the only possible reason for low voltage getting to the 1 coild (different if it was to all coils)

Any further advice very much appreciated, failing that I am in Norfolk in the UK, anyone recommend someone who would visit to repair onsite?

Thanks,

Andy
 
Problem Solved

OK, I replaced transistors Q25 and Q21 on the MPU board, also resoldered the logic chip that controls these as it had been socketed and was a mess, then checked all other boards and found a burned Molex at J6 on the interconnect board, fitted new plug and resoldered the male part on the board, bingo, all works again, the offending molex at J6 is still hot to the touch however (its the G.I Connector), would this be normal?

Andy
 
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