Dokert
Well-known member
My Bob Roberts order came in. But I forgot to order the damn BR2, the whole reason for placing the order. kbu401. I'm gonna try to find a source with cheaper shipping for that one part.
Mouser has them
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Please post all monitor technical topics in the Technical - Videogames - Monitors section, not in the General Help section.
Williams Stargate arcade. Where's my +12v?
- Thread starter mitchschaft
- Start date
Mouser has them
Radio Shack part #276-1146 (4a 50V full wave bridge rectifier).
ken
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Damn, I didn't even think of radio shack. I'm gonna run out there today and grab it.
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CrazyKongFan
Well-known member
Radio Shack still carries electronic parts?
(j/k, I know they still have a few parts)
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lol, thats why I forgot to check there.
That is the only part for Williams boards except maybe (just maybe) a capacitor or fuse or two. They stopped carrying the CR2032 battery holders for doing the lithium battery mod recently. That was just about the only reason I ever went in there anymore.
By the way, congrats on getting the power supply up and running.
Are you seeing any signs of life on the video screen? Rug test starting, solid colors, blinking pixels?
You might also want to check the power to the ROM board. I recently spent way too much time on a Stargate boardset just to find that the filter cap on the ROM board was shorted and pulling the voltage low. Also, you might want to recrimp the ROM cable. Pulling it in and out of the connector by the cable can loosen the connections.
ken
By the way, congrats on getting the power supply up and running.
Are you seeing any signs of life on the video screen? Rug test starting, solid colors, blinking pixels?
You might also want to check the power to the ROM board. I recently spent way too much time on a Stargate boardset just to find that the filter cap on the ROM board was shorted and pulling the voltage low. Also, you might want to recrimp the ROM cable. Pulling it in and out of the connector by the cable can loosen the connections.
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This was a first power supply fix for me. I'm pretty stoked.
So check out the video shots. It can be different each time I turn it on. But, it mostly sits where the last 2 pics are. Sometimes snow will change colors or move around. I get no sound, 'cept for a hum, out of the speaker.
I'm gonna check out the schematics and poke around. I have an oscope if you have any advice for that.
So check out the video shots. It can be different each time I turn it on. But, it mostly sits where the last 2 pics are. Sometimes snow will change colors or move around. I get no sound, 'cept for a hum, out of the speaker.
I'm gonna check out the schematics and poke around. I have an oscope if you have any advice for that.
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Try recrimping the ROM cable. The first two pictures look like the Rug (RAM) test, so it is trying to start. Try recrimping the rom cable (http://www.arcadesolution.com/ribbon.html). Just skip over the replacing part to the section where it is being squeezed in a vise. Don't tighten the vise too much, you just want to press the wires back onto the IDC pins.
Try pressing down on the connectors one at a time while you power it up. If you get changes on the screen, then you probably need to recrimp the ribbon cable.
If you go to the self help pages at the Arcade Solution web site, there are some good pointers on diagnosing board issues.
There is a troubleshooting guide for Williams boards at arcarc.xmisson.com in the Willaims directory. Look for the 'recap' documents. There are also most of the manuals and drawing sets for the games there also.
ken
Try pressing down on the connectors one at a time while you power it up. If you get changes on the screen, then you probably need to recrimp the ribbon cable.
If you go to the self help pages at the Arcade Solution web site, there are some good pointers on diagnosing board issues.
There is a troubleshooting guide for Williams boards at arcarc.xmisson.com in the Willaims directory. Look for the 'recap' documents. There are also most of the manuals and drawing sets for the games there also.
ken
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I tried recriming and promptly broke the tabs off, haha. Even after recrimping there was no change. But where the was change, it was caused by me jiggling the other end of the cable that connects to the main board. Not just jiggling it, but sliding the connector up and down the pins, but not unplugging it. I even had a blaster sound come out of the speaker when I played with the connector. The screen changed to a full rug pattern, too.
I ended up with an error code so I think we narrowed it down to a connector problem. But I power cycled and couldn't get it back.
There is an aweful lot of corrosion on the CPU side of the connector. I need to replace the entire cable assembly including the connectors on the boards. I think doing that will fix everything. We'll find out.
Who has the best ribbon replacement stuff?
I ended up with an error code so I think we narrowed it down to a connector problem. But I power cycled and couldn't get it back.
There is an aweful lot of corrosion on the CPU side of the connector. I need to replace the entire cable assembly including the connectors on the boards. I think doing that will fix everything. We'll find out.
Who has the best ribbon replacement stuff?
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joeycuda
Well-known member
Bob Roberts sells both the ROM cable and the interface cable. On my STargate board main board, the interface cable header had some chalky corrosion and I had random errors that seemed related to the ROM cable crimp. I replaced both. You soldering skills will need to be pretty decent. Be very careful desoldering the old ribbon cables.
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Soldering is no problem. I found the cables on his site and am asking if he has the connectors/headers, too. I couldn't find those.
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Dokert
Well-known member
That is the crystal, and it is a crap shoot whether or not that one is still good. I would lean towards it being good from the signs of life that you have so far.
Digi-key has the cable assemblies (C3PPS-4018G-ND (18" double ended grey wire)). As does Arcade Solution (Andre also sells the parts). As well as Bob.
I bought the last batch from Digi-key. I normally buy the double sided ones, cut them in half, put connectors on them and I have 2 sets. I am out right at the moment and it may be a while before I put another Digi-key order in.
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I bought the last batch from Digi-key. I normally buy the double sided ones, cut them in half, put connectors on them and I have 2 sets. I am out right at the moment and it may be a while before I put another Digi-key order in.
ken
Sorry about that. I did say not too hard.
Most of the time it is the MPU side that is loose. That is the side that everybody grabs the ribbon cable to pull the cable loose. The proper way to unplug those connectors is to use a flat bladed screwdriver on the sides of the connectors and gently lift one side then the other until the connector pops out. Pulling on the ribbon cable will cause the wires to become loose. Pressing down on that connector while the boards are booting will often cause the rug test to run.
The address and data buses are carried across the ribbon cable and if the cable is not making good contact, the CPU stalls because it can't read either the ROMs or the RAMs.
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Dang, Bob's never had to replace those headers so he's never bought one and doesn't stock any. I might have to just find a way to clean the corrosion off somehow.
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Ha, arcade solutions has headers! That is perfect.
but no crystals
but no crystals
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Dokert
Well-known member
Bob has the crystals
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I couldn't find it on his page. his fully assembled cables are a lot cheaper.
