williams powewr supply

paul400

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 8, 2010
Messages
2,416
Reaction score
219
Location
Hixson, Tennessee
het bob has two kits to rebuild a WM power supply, need recommendation on which one to get. all my voltages are low . -3.5 +4.2 +11.5
 
Either one is a good place to start. Many of these power supplies are reaching a point where a number of the less common parts are beginning to fail.

Replacing any corroded or burnt headers is always a good place to start. Testing and replacing the bridge rectifiers will usually help. Socketing and replacing the voltage regiulators usually helps. Checking and cleaning the fuse holders can sometimes bring voltages back up as well.

Testing the voltages at each of the points listed in the schematics will sometimes help pinpoint failing or failed components. Also testing the input AC voltages can sometimes point to an issue with one of the power brick components (usually the line filter).

If you know what is the issue, it can often be faster to source replacement parts locally than to mail order them.

ken
 
thanks for the tips. there is nothing around where i live execpt radioshack and the dont have anything.
 
1. test all 3 BR's
2. verify no burnt headers and or connectors
3. order repair kit with appropriate parts as needed from testing above
 
The other option is to send it off to Dave (Dockert) or myself to be rebuilt.

ken

thanks, i like to have the hands on experience, for me its all about getting it working on my own, thats not to say i have had stuff that is way beyond my ability, and you guys might not want it when i am done with it!! lol
 
Ken (yellowdog) and I have a running contest for the most hosed up Williams power supply that we can bring back to life.
 
do one of you guys have the wiring diagram for defender. just got my coin door and need to wire it up.
 
do one of you guys have the wiring diagram for defender. just got my coin door and need to wire it up.

You can find most of the drawing sets out on arcarc.xmission.com. The Williams games are mostly in the Williams folder.


Ken (yellowdog) and I have a running contest for the most hosed up Williams power supply that we can bring back to life.

I just got a box of PS boards that look like they were the leftovers from an "if you give an infinite number of monkeys soldering irons" board repair experiment :eek:. I'll try to remember to post some before pictures.

ken
 
You can find most of the drawing sets out on arcarc.xmission.com. The Williams games are mostly in the Williams folder.




I just got a box of PS boards that look like they were the leftovers from an "if you give an infinite number of monkeys soldering irons" board repair experiment :eek:. I'll try to remember to post some before pictures.

ken

I have the other half of that box on my parts shelf. :D

Pm me your address again Ken, you just reminded me that I have a box with your name on it for repairs to be done.
 
well, i rebuilt the power supply and gave defender 24 new rams. the results were good. i wanted to have a game b4 i called it quits . i got it to coin up but not start. 1 or 2 player did nothing. checked the buttons and they tested good . so maybe interface board or ribbon cable??? somthing on the main board?
 

Attachments

  • defender.jpg
    defender.jpg
    89.1 KB · Views: 9
You need to look in the operators manual to get the game into the diagnostics mode. One of the screens is the switch test, that will allow you to press the buttons and see if they are registering. If they are not, then you need to check the ground wires to make sure you have a good loop to ground. Also those old leaf switches. They get gummed up and need to be cleaned. Do not use sandpaper. There is a very thin gold plating on the switches that sandpaper will take right off. Use a white paper index card between the leaf contact points and move it back and forth to burnish the contacts. If it is really gummed up badly. put a drop of rubbing alchohol on the card.

ken
 
still havin a power problem, by the time 5volts gets to the chips its 4.5 volts. this is how i replaced the 18000 uf cap, i used the exsisiting leads and some copper wire and solder them together.is this how the pros do it?
 

Attachments

  • def cap2.jpg
    def cap2.jpg
    27.9 KB · Views: 10
  • def cap.jpg
    def cap.jpg
    28.1 KB · Views: 13
still havin a power problem, by the time 5volts gets to the chips its 4.5 volts. this is how i replaced the 18000 uf cap, i used the exsisiting leads and some copper wire and solder them together.is this how the pros do it?

No, the pros go to Ed at Great Plains Electronics and buy the correct cap.;)
 
Even though it is a radial cap rather than an axial, you should mount it horizontally, secure it with a cable tie and attach the wires to the original holes. It will be less likely to get shorted horizontally and therefore less likely to damage anything or itself if a short occurs.

From the picture, it looks like you soldered it to the test points rather than the original holes. This is a bad practice. You should use the original holes.


Or as Dave said, go to www.greatplainselectronics .com and order a CEA-18000uF-25V-RMD 18,000mfd axial lead capacitor (link).

ken
 
Even though it is a radial cap rather than an axial, you should mount it horizontally, secure it with a cable tie and attach the wires to the original holes. It will be less likely to get shorted horizontally and therefore less likely to damage anything or itself if a short occurs.

From the picture, it looks like you soldered it to the test points rather than the original holes. This is a bad practice. You should use the original holes.


Or as Dave said, go to www.greatplainselectronics .com and order a CEA-18000uF-25V-RMD 18,000mfd axial lead capacitor (link).

ken

thanks for the tips. i soldered it to the leads when i clipped off the original. i will buy the corrcet replacement next order.
 
Back
Top Bottom