Williams Jubilee - Lost Voltage

ArcadeTechGW

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Donor 5 years: 2012, 2022-2025
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Hi all,

I've been troubleshooting an arcade's Williams Jubilee (Electro-Mechanical). This one has me perplexed, and I'm looking for suggestions / validation of my going forward plan.

Symptoms:

Plug in the machine with the power switch and door panel out of the picture, and you get 120 volts at the transformer terminals and power outlet in the machine.

When you put that plug in, the voltage drops into the millivolt range. I tried this with every other plug out of the board - every time I plug in the switch, the voltage drops to almost nothing.

I have metered the power switch to ground - nothing shows up.

I figure the cord is down to a thread, and when I plug in the board, I pull down the voltage across the bad cord.

My going forward plan is to replace the cord. Does anyone have any thoughts or ideas, or has anyone run into this before?

By the way, it isn't blowing fuses and nothing is smoking, which is why I figure I have a bad power lead, and not something on the board, hard shorted to ground. Something would have clued me in with a blown fuse or smoke at this point.

Suggestions?
 
I'd be sure the game is wired for 120AC right, that no one mixed up the hot/common/ground.

And that the outlet it is plugged into is wired right and working.

Since the switch isn't burning up it doesn't seem a resistance issue, more a wiring issue.

LTG :)
 
Williams Jubilee loss of power

I checked, and the game is wired for 120 volts, and the hot and neutral are fine. The outlet is at 115 volts, and it comes through the cord to the blocks, no problem.

I'm replacing the cord tonight. The worst thing that will happen is the fuse will blow.
 
Williams Jubilee Lost Power

Status Update: I replaced the cord with a new one, and now the bus voltages stay up.

I'm homing in on the issue. I could manually trip the 10/100/1000/10000 relays to reset the score for a restart, at which point power cut off (as it should have - everything was at zero.)

The score motor runs. The outholes above the flippers work.

The general illumination is on for the playfield and the head, and by manually flipping the player select, I can get all 4 positions to light up.

The coin door light is on, but the coin switches don't have power, nor does the tilt assembly, the flippers, rollovers or pop bumpers or any siderail switches. I don't get anything by pushing the start button.

So, it's an easter-egg hunt - look for what has power, what doesn't have power, and find out which relay contact is munged up, and then go get it with the flex file.

I'll take on that task tomorrow. This is getting interesting.

Stuff already done (other than replacing the cord):

Cleaned all pins / pin socket connectors.

Flex-filed contacts on Reset Relay.
 
Bump

Bumping this thread - still looking for any insights someone with a Jubilee has. Assistance Requested please.
 
Solutions!

I figured it would be worth writing up what I found when I fixed this.

There were multiple problems.
Hurdle 1:

The Reset Relay had blobs of solder, which were preventing the contacts from making contact. Of course, the solder was blobbed on EXACTLY the right set of contacts.

Solution: Heated up the soldering iron, and removed the solder, then cleaned up the contacts with a Flex File.

Hurdle 2:

There was no power to much of the board. I tracked it back to the Tilt relay, and back from there to the playfield connectors. I ohmed out the playfield connectors, and resolved several high resistance connections by burnishing / cleaning / adjusting.

Hurdle 3:

There was no power to the coin mechs. The lamps were on, but I couldn't get a connection. I traced the wires back through the Slam Switch on the door, and found a cold solder joint. I re-made the connection, and resolved the problem.

Hurdle 4:

The Advance relays were hung up. They would not switch from side to side. I cycled the relays manually (power off) a number of times, which freed up the relays. They are now working.

Next problem: I need to re-wire this to be one play for a quarter. It went online at around 6 pm today, and it already had 28 plays by closing at 10:00 pm.

I hate multiple problem games. You just have to keep hunting.
 
"I hate multiple problem games. You just have to keep hunting."

Heh, yeah. Tell me about it. I've been futzing with this Rollergames for weeks now. About ready to throw it off a roof.
 
Rollergames and a Return to Jubilee

What problem are you having with Rollergames?

As to Jubilee, I went and did a health check, and found a burned coil, and a stuck switch - the switch got so hot, it melted into the plastic. It's off to Marco Specialty for a new order. Phew.

I already replaced this A22-550 once - This one got really hot - it melted the wire off the terminal. I'll have to find where that solder went to (hopefully, someplace benign, but probably not).

I also have a problem with one of the decade counters - it won't reset, so I'll have to pull that one on Player 1, and chekc the reset system for bad / dirty contacts.

Ah, EM pinballs - the gift that keeps on giving.
 
Ack! Fire!

My worst nightmare - fire damage.

I just replaced the A22-550 coil on the advance unit, and cleaned / re-gapped the contacts on the Advance relay (as well as moving them one slot out- they had melted the plastic on the relay!) when I noticed that the 100 counter on Player 1 wasn't working.

I pulled the back door on the head, and holy crap! Every wire on the 100's counter was toasted. No insulation left - just fried.

I'm into major repairs at this point - I'll have to pull the decade counter, de-solder and either heat shrink over the bare wires, or replace / butt splice in new wire.

It only toasted for a few inches. Man, I hate cloth covered wire. I'll replace it with Aviation grade wire, with Tefzel insulation.

I can't figure out why this lit off. (and NO, I didn't use contact cleaner on this or any other pinball). It looks like one of the wires may have got snagged by the mechanism, and dragged in.
 
Toast Repair

I finally pulled the 100-900 module on Player 1 for a look. Several connections melted off (must have been pretty damn hot) the contacts.

I cleaned up the contacts, and while doing so, tried to cycle the plunger. No dice - the solenoid melted down (probably caused the whole event). I cleaned up everything, unwound the coil, and managed to get it to release the plunger.

I then made a log of the connections, determed any that were missing their insulation (incineration?), and then spliced in new Tefzel. To save the customer money, I wire nutted the connection between the original cloth insulated wires and the Tefzel wires. Everything is wired up, waiting for the new solenoid to arrive from Pinball Resource. He had it for a fraction of what eBay wanted (7.50 plus shipping, vs. 19.99 plus shipping).

I'm still puzzled as to what would have caused this event. The wire I though was pulled in was not. I did find one contact on the 100 relay that wouldn't break (too much tension in the stationary contact). I pulled back the stationary contact using my contact tool, and checked all similar contacts for proper make/break.

Anyone have any thoughts otherwise? I'd like to avoid depleting the rest of the B1-26-800 coil supply in the universe by avoiding another flame-out.
 
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