Williams games keep resetting.

Stuffmonger

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I have both a JOUST and a Defender in dedicated cabs. Both cabs reset while in the middle of play at random. Last night, while playing joust, it reset on the sixth wave, then it reset 2 or 3 more times right away, and then worked fine again afterwards. By reset, I mean the screen goes all garbled, then comes up with a text screen that I have to advance through to get to the start screen again. Any ideas?
 
Do they have the original power supplies or have they been converted to using switchers?

If switchers, take a voltmeter and check the voltages. Switchers tend to drift over time.

If original, take the voltmeter and check the voltages. If good, then pull and reseat all of the power cables. Sometimes the vibration of playing will cause the cables to glitch causing resets. Especially when you are really jamming on a game.


ken
 
I've had this happen on a Stargate, then it began reporting the dreaded 131. Rechecked all Ram for voltages. All original, no switchers. My +5v was having an issue at 3.65 Reseated the Headers, seems to be running fine now.

I have both a JOUST and a Defender in dedicated cabs. Both cabs reset while in the middle of play at random. Last night, while playing joust, it reset on the sixth wave, then it reset 2 or 3 more times right away, and then worked fine again afterwards. By reset, I mean the screen goes all garbled, then comes up with a text screen that I have to advance through to get to the start screen again. Any ideas?
 
I've had this happen on a Stargate, then it began reporting the dreaded 131. Rechecked all Ram for voltages. All original, no switchers. My +5v was having an issue at 3.65 Reseated the Headers, seems to be running fine now.

You need to replace the header on the board then. Get the square post breakaway 20 prong type from Bob Roberts, and break away the proper amount of pins for the power section; unsolder, remove, cleanup and replace.

Saltbreez
 
I'm wondering if I should just rebuild all my williams power supplies. I have 4 or 5 original ones, and at least one of them is bad. No switchers in my williams cabs.
 
You need to replace the header on the board then. Get the square post breakaway 20 prong type from Bob Roberts, and break away the proper amount of pins for the power section; unsolder, remove, cleanup and replace.

Not to hijack the thread, but what's your take on these break-away headers versus the old style, one-piece plastic/nylon versions that you buy with specific set pin numbers? I was wondering whether one was better than the other. For example, is it easier to open the old style, because when you bend the locking top back you're bending the whole top back for all the pins, whereas on the breakaway ones it seems to me you're just bending back the first one in line? (If you see what I mean.)
 
The old style were a locking type meant to be plug and forget. The break-away headers lack that locking tab so they are easier to plug and unplug.

I use the locking headers when I rebuild just to make sure the connectors stay put.

ken
 
The break-away headers that I got from Bob do have a curved back in the same way as the old-style so they are supposed to have some degree of locking. How successful it is, I'm not sure, because I haven't used any yet.
 
Not to hijack the thread, but what's your take on these break-away headers versus the old style, one-piece plastic/nylon versions that you buy with specific set pin numbers? I was wondering whether one was better than the other. For example, is it easier to open the old style, because when you bend the locking top back you're bending the whole top back for all the pins, whereas on the breakaway ones it seems to me you're just bending back the first one in line? (If you see what I mean.)


I use the break away style only because the flat surface of the pin provides more opportunity for conduction; in a power supply connection that is important.

I have never had a problem with a joint becoming disconnected on it's own.

Saltbreez
 
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