Williams bottom damage on cabinet repair

DPtwiz

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Not sure if i ever posted this.. we all know williams cabs are prone the leg levelers getting broke off, and the cabs drug around.

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I had this cab broken down, but you can see it's tore up. I cut a new piece on the cnc, you can do this on the tablesaw too. I measured up to where i was replacing, then add in the distance from the metal edge of your circular saw to the blade, and clamp a guide square across the cabinet

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Once it's off, use a biscuit joiner and notch the original game side in about 5 places, and do that to your corresponding replacement part. Once it's all glued up, line them up and slide it on, and i used some scraps and clamps to hold it flush till it dried

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Works pretty well!!

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I have a Stargate project cab that will need this kind of treatment. It's weird though, these cabs seem like they have ever-so-slight of a rocker cut towards the back. I wonder if it's just wear from being pushed around for so many years.

This is on a Robotron, but the Stargate I have is the same, as well as a second Robotron. All three have this same slight rocker towards the back of the cab:
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It's tragic the way they designed the bottom of the cabinets with regards to leg levelers being recessed so much. That's gotta be the best way to repair that, and using plywood/like material, the joint shouldn't move and open up.
 
it's supposed to be straight across. The fix is the little blocks on the bottom that hold the leg levelers.. i use a cut down 2X4 with a hole drilled for the levelers, and use a T-nut glued in. Staple it from the outside in, and fill your holes. it gets the stress off all the threaded part and can't get so much angle to it, and bend it off.
 
Excellent!

I've got a pac that is going to need this. The ply layers are starting to separate. A couple of questions:

Are the biscuits and glue strong enough to hold without moving and cracking a new paint job?
Do you sand the seam down to recess it, bondo, then sand it level?
It appears that you completely disassembled the cab. Is this easier than replacing the bottom while the cab is still assembled?
 
the cab was dissasembled, because it was the one i used to copy for the cnc. Yes, bevel the edge to give you a wider area to smooth it out with bondo. Here's the other catch.. the old games ply is truly 3/4 thick.. new ply is 1/16 less.. you have to skim coat the entire new piece so you can get the thickness back. The less you replace the better.
 
the cab was dissasembled, because it was the one i used to copy for the cnc. Yes, bevel the edge to give you a wider area to smooth it out with bondo. Here's the other catch.. the old games ply is truly 3/4 thick.. new ply is 1/16 less.. you have to skim coat the entire new piece so you can get the thickness back. The less you replace the better.

Wouldn't it be easier to just face glue some 1/16" veneer? When I did a Pole Position II Irish cabinet I just made sure that the outside was flush. :D

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
 

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If it is just starting to delaminate, a quick and easy fix is to use l-bracket aluminum on it. I use either 1 inch or 3/4 inch along the side and bolt it on. It provides a flat surface on the bottoms and requires minimal woodworking. I've posted about this before.

ken
 
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