Will Somebody ID this Monitor Chassis

mantaramian

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Donor 2011, 2024
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I have spent the past week trying to identify this monitor chassis, is there anybody out there that can help?

It belongs to a iCade 60-in-1 Cocktail Table. The problem is no picture. All that happens is the LED in the front of the chassis goes on the off, then on then off. You can also here a faint weeping sound between cycles.
 

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I don't know if anyone will be knowledgeable enough to ID that particular chassis.

It appears to be a computer monitor, not your typical arcade monitor.

If you are getting power to go off then on then off then on, try shorting out the button to the on position. I've done this be use a screwdriver, then when I confirmed it stayed on, I dropped some solder on there. Then it turned off and on when the game was turned off and on.
 
I am unsure of the model/manufacture, but it looks like an old computer monitor installed on a custom frame.
Aaron
 
Looks to me like a de-cased computer monitor with a custom frame. Can't really help beyond that.
 
Thanks for the quick response, I will give the power switch a shot to see if that helps.... I will keep you all posted.
 
So for starters, the power switch is good, I am going to start with a CAP Kit, then go from there.

I will post my progress.
 
So for starters, the power switch is good, I am going to start with a CAP Kit, then go from there.

I will post my progress.

I wouldn't fault a guy for working on a monitor, but those seem hardly worth working on.

YOu can find another old crt on craigslist for $10 probably. Or lcd it for $40 (though it doesn't look as good). Or get a real monitor and it will look great from one of us locals.

or cap it I suppose, but I sure wouldn't.
 
I agree with the others here, its probably a de cased computer monitor. But, the board color, that plastic base, the caps they used, the glue on parts here and there screams Sanwa to me. Not sure of the model number though.
 
I have spent the past week trying to identify this monitor chassis, is there anybody out there that can help?

It belongs to a iCade 60-in-1 Cocktail Table. The problem is no picture. All that happens is the LED in the front of the chassis goes on the off, then on then off. You can also here a faint weeping sound between cycles.

What flyback is it using?

it is a tri mode monitor chassis
I think your asking which model it is so
you can get a cap kit..It may not need every
cap..
If no shorts on the B+ line then i would replace all the caps
around the power supply..comfirm your secondary voltages
are good..then go further.
The Hot is on the largest heatsink.a short is zero ohms

I dont see any reason why it wouldn't
be worth fixing
unless a part is NLA
If you need help fixing it. i will help you.
Pm me or post here your voltages or questions here.
Once your ready to trouble shoot it..
with or without a cap kit or a schematic.
 
Thank you for all your valuable input, so I caped out the chassis, I stuck it on my bench applies power and SNAP CRACKLE POP, I have life again.... 60 seconds later KAPOW, a filter in the air. It was a .47x100. So I thought I may have soldered it in backwards. So I put another one in (not the same voltage .47x50) and another power up and KAPOW again.

So, from here I will locate a few of the correct value Cap .47x100 and triple check all work (when it not so late) and see how all goes tomorrow.
 
What flyback is it using?



I dont see any reason why it wouldn't
be worth fixing
.

It appears you are a knowledgeable guy.

So all due respect!

It's a $10 monitor. I wouldn't put more than 10 minutes and zero dollars into it. Just because you can fix something doesn't mean you should.



As I say that, I have found working on stuff rewarding and valuable.
 
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It appears you are a knowledgeable guy.

So all due respect!

It's a $10 monitor. I wouldn't put more than 10 minutes and zero dollars into it. Just because you can fix something doesn't mean you should.



As I say that, I have found working on stuff rewarding and valuable.


While were on the same Thread
were not on the same Page!!

Ok forget is it worth it, lets get it going for the Fun of it..
It might turn out to be rewarding and valuable.

There's a small chance you could learn something too.
Or you could just look away and not return to the thread.

Because it's not up to me if the chassis get's repaired.
I'm just offering my Expertise.
 
Thank you for all your valuable input, so I caped out the chassis, I stuck it on my bench applies power and SNAP CRACKLE POP, I have life again.... 60 seconds later KAPOW, a filter in the air. It was a .47x100. So I thought I may have soldered it in backwards. So I put another one in (not the same voltage .47x50) and another power up and KAPOW again.

So, from here I will locate a few of the correct value Cap .47x100 and triple check all work (when it not so late) and see how all goes tomorrow.

How are you doing with this repair..

Can you point out which cap you are talking about
in the picture and i will see which circuit your in..

Were all the caps OEM?
Have they been replaced before?
was this chassis ever working before, that you know of?
Good Luck.
 
Q. How are you doing with this repair..
A. Making Progress

Q. Can you point out which cap you are talking about
in the picture and i will see which circuit your in..
A. Yes, It has the arrow pointing towards it.

Q. Were all the caps OEM?
A. Yes, all OEM parts, The game was in a persons house for years running, never turned off.

Q. Have they been replaced before?
A. no, all parts were original, this is why I started with a cap kit, similar to a switcher power supply. The start up circuit would not fire up.

Q. Was this chassis ever working before, that you know of?
A. Nope, never.


Thanks again,
Mike
 

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So I went back threw my work and determined it was a under rated cap, So I went to my supplies of Caps and found a 1 x 250 and instead of a .47 x 50 so far so good as far as the filter popping....

Now I get a White raster with the faint outline of the game displaying. You really cant see it in a picture but it is there.

I will post a pic of what I have now.

I understand a LCD screen is an alternative, But I am determined to get this Tube going, No Burn what so ever.
 

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So I went back threw my work and determined it was a under rated cap, So I went to my supplies of Caps and found a 1 x 250 and instead of a .47 x 50 so far so good as far as the filter popping....

Now I get a White raster with the faint outline of the game displaying. You really cant see it in a picture but it is there.

I will post a pic of what I have now.

I understand a LCD screen is an alternative, But I am determined to get this Tube going, No Burn what so ever.




I ask you to up the voltage on the cap in my pm. because i suspect the voltage is to
high.. the cap is in the Horizontal drive circuit off the Horiz-drive transistor and drive
transformer..
So now you need to check the B+ voltage..
Now if you look at the blue trim pot next to the Power supply
first look to see if it is already turned,I believe i notice paint or something
on it.
First set your meter for dc and now your going to search the secondary of
smps the output side for the highest voltage,keeping in mind the electrolytic cap
you replace that had a dc rating of 200-250v odds are this is the B+..line
measure the voltage first on the cathode of each diode..
and thinking about the dc on each diode record the voltages.
if you dont know which diodes im talking about then take a picture of it and
i can point out where they are...

Good notes will help you to understand and remember the over all voltages
are because when you turn the pot it may adjust just the Horiz-scan voltage
which mostly refered to as the B+ its mainly for the Horiz-circuits,like HOT
and fly and drive transformer...
the other taps of the smps are for a few other circuits like Drive Ics
and sync circuits..and mosfet's that are in the corner of the chassis
for differnet res-scanning..

Blindly turning the pot may not let you know what happening..
because you dont know what the voltages should be to begin with..
If you see the paint cracked it may have been turned and now you have a
over voltage issue..or if it wasn't turned then,we may have another issue
as always you want to make sure all your connections are good around the chassis.

Get the details about that and then i will tell you where your next problem
is with the over raster..as always the screen control screen should never be adjusted all the way
clockwise,as a test to see video you can turn it down to see if it was turn up to high..
again if the B+ is to high then the crt cathodes may have been effected as a result
and we can get to them after these other test are taken..on the neck board/
Proceedure will make a difference in you over all repair..
one step at a time..

I 'm still thinking of the chassis schematic or what the chassis is so when
i ask you for the flyback number i was going to check that more..
I'm not saying th fly is bad..
humer me and answer all my question's...
the next chassis your own your own what knowledge you get from this repair..
will help in many repair's that you know nothing about..

Don't think the cap that was blowing up was because the company put in the
the wrong voltage to begin with..its because you dc is to high..
What is the voltage on the cap that blew up now?
To much dc to the horiz drive circuit show up other issues later if it not correct.
Good Luck!
 
I checked the B+ Voltage per your instructions, the DC meter reading was 12.79 volts, shouldn't that be higher? I do not believe I was measuring it correctly. I will upload pictures.

The B+ trim pot has never been touched by anybody, not even me. I did mess with the trim pot next to the fly back, but returned it to its original position.

To get the number of the Fly back I had to remove the fly back to get a good picture to post.

As I removed the Fly back there was a Model number of the Chassis..... I hope this will hope, I saw another thread by a fellow member working on the same monitor in the same style of cabinet.

http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=45123
 

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Great Pictures

Ok forget about what chassis it is.
It seems to be made by philips One of thier chassis a cm24
and can use that schematic..i can relate to the numbers..


Anyway It's not an issue with me it won't stop me from completing
the repair only slow me down..not having it..I have repaired one in the tv shop before.


Put your ground lead on the large heatsink it is a good cold ground..
Next measure the cathodes of each diode along the smps
pointing towards the flyback,,i see one diode is not pointing to the
flyback that you measure the anode because its a neg-voltage and would
lead to a cap that has a neg-voltage..

Now measure each one, odds are the big black diode and the one to the left
will be higher voltage because they are higher current diodes..
and would lead if you follow the trace to a higher voltage cap..that i assume
was one of the ones you have replace, post your voltages.

Then compare the voltages to the voltages posted on the pins on the neck
board i can see in the picture it is written on the pcb of the neck board..
once you have all the power supply voltages..written down..
we can review whats missing..

The cap that blew up may have been because you replace it with the wrong voltage
and not be and issue here now..
but i want to know all the voltages for reference and will be good for further repairs.

Now once i know what the voltages are in the power supply lets go to the neck board
and take roll call need to see whats missing..
the paint on the screen pot does show it was turn clock wise,,again turn it counter clockwise
to see if your video gets better..may not be and issue because its not far from where it was.


becareful its easy to short the pins on the connectors of the neck board..
write down and compare the voltages listed on all the pins along the bottom of the neck board..
for the symptom of to bright picture odds are you do have video just hard to see it.
Good Luck and dont short anything out..measuring the pins..
 
Do me a favor and take a close picture of that neck board please? While it's off the tube.
 
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