Why can't I find the correct T-molding for my DK Jr?

souzilla

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Why can't I find the correct T-molding for my DK Jr?

I originally bought the white t-molding 9/16" and when I got it the t-molding was not wide enough. OK, I was careless and did not realize mine was the particle board version. I ordered the 5/8" t-molding and it got here today and it still does not fit

http://www.souzaonline.com/temp/dkjr_tmold.JPG

It looks like the slot for the t-molding is off center on these cabs. Does anyone know who makes the correct t-moldiong for this cab?
 
As of now, there is no one who makes reproduction off-centered T-molding.

The common solution is to fill the slots with wood filler or bondo and cut your own centered slot with a slot cutter and router. Then you'd most likely use the 5/8" T-molding.

There is a possible project underway to create original Nintendo T-molding, but I believe it's standard FLAT centered T-molding that they intend to produce:

http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=115906

I'm keeping the old original offset T-molding in my particle wood Vs. cab. I'm just going to clean it up as much as I can and leave it be for now. There are no chips or cracks so I'm happy enough with it.
 
Thanks... this is my first Nintendo cab and I did not realize it was that unusual
 
I've heard/searched on the forums that some people have had luck taking a sharpie or painting the inside edges black if the t-molding is just a pinch too small.
 
I dunno. I heard it works well to install and then cut. If you have a really sharp exacto or similar blade you should be able to get a nice edge I think. This is what I'm going to try.
 
I dunno. I heard it works well to install and then cut. If you have a really sharp exacto or similar blade you should be able to get a nice edge I think. This is what I'm going to try.

i would like to see that work out but im to much of a perfectionist, anything wrong with something new would ppiss me off :)
 
Not to beat a dead horse, but I want to do this right since it is my first time. I was going to use rock hard water putty to fill in the slot (someone mentioned to me that they have used gorilla glue to fill the hole). Then I was going to use a roto-zip tool to make a new slot. Any thoughts?
 
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Don't fill and rerouter. Order standard 3/4" white T-Molding, install, then take a edge band trimmer tool (basically a well aligned razor blade) and trim off the outside lip that remains.

No, it's not perfectly flat like the 9/16" -- it has the slight curve, but then again the 9/16" is far from authentic as the original had a much thinner profile anyway.

After cutting, the cut edge remains about as thick as is you had installed 9/16" anyway but the inside non-cut edge has the taper. In all honesty, it's not that noticeable, and only by you, not by non-collectors. Anything is typically better than what remains.


If you must fill and route, don't use wood putty -- it will tend to flake off when routering if the blade touches any part of it -- even with a good router, let alone a small rotozip. Use Bondo instead.

Use a real router with proper bit. A Rotozip will not be able to keep the cut consistent, and you'll have a wave throughout the channel that will end up showing once the molding is installed. Using 3/4" T-molding and a razor blade will be massively easier and take a lot less time.
 
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Don't fill and rerouter. Order standard 3/4" white T-Molding, install, then take a edge band trimmer tool (basically a well aligned razor blade) and trim off the outside lip that remains.

No, it's not perfectly flat like the 9/16" -- it has the slight curve, but then again the 9/16" is far from authentic as the original had a much thinner profile anyway.

Just an FYI....the off-set molding Nintendo used isn't flat like the 9/16th is....it is "rounded" like most other t-moldings.

Edward
 
Thanks for mentioning this. I have always wondered if such a tool existed, now I know its name.

take a edge band trimmer tool (basically a well aligned razor blade) and trim off the outside lip that remains.
 
Do you have any close up pictures of what this looks like?

Don't fill and rerouter. Order standard 3/4" white T-Molding, install, then take a edge band trimmer tool (basically a well aligned razor blade) and trim off the outside lip that remains.

No, it's not perfectly flat like the 9/16" -- it has the slight curve, but then again the 9/16" is far from authentic as the original had a much thinner profile anyway.

After cutting, the cut edge remains about as thick as is you had installed 9/16" anyway but the inside non-cut edge has the taper. In all honesty, it's not that noticeable, and only by you, not by non-collectors. Anything is typically better than what remains.


If you must fill and route, don't use wood putty -- it will tend to flake off when routering if the blade touches any part of it -- even with a good router, let alone a small rotozip. Use Bondo instead.

Use a real router with proper bit. A Rotozip will not be able to keep the cut consistent, and you'll have a wave throughout the channel that will end up showing once the molding is installed. Using 3/4" T-molding and a razor blade will be massively easier and take a lot less time.
 
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