Who wants to fix my U5000 chassis?

SilverDuck

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I have a U5000 25" monitor on location, not getting ANYTHING on the screen. Near as I can tell, no neck glow, either. Is there anything simple I can check, and if not, who wants to sort it out for me?
 
Well, you could check the fuse, and measure the B+. Change the caps, etc.

Or I can fix it. $50 + parts + shipping...
 
If the fuse is good, and I can't find the problem....how soon do you want it, and how back-logged are you?
 
if it's anything like the K7400 or K7500 I'm willing to bet it's high B+ forcing it into HV shutdown. one day I'll memorize this, but I think the test point is the same on the U5000, I just can't remember if you go from TP202 or TP203 lol. I think it was the one closest to the B+ adjust pot.

now under normal circumstances, which I learned the hard way, do NOT fuck with the B+ pot, re-cap the chassis first, and if there's no change, then you have to break that epoxy off (without breaking the pot) to adjust it. you want 117V I believe.

that is of course if it's a B+ issue. you could alternatively also inspect the flyback for cracks, see if it took a poo. my information could potentially be wrong, cause I've never had to do this on a U5000 before, only the other 2.
 
if it's anything like the K7400 or K7500 I'm willing to bet it's high B+ forcing it into HV shutdown. one day I'll memorize this, but I think the test point is the same on the U5000, I just can't remember if you go from TP202 or TP203 lol. I think it was the one closest to the B+ adjust pot.

now under normal circumstances, which I learned the hard way, do NOT fuck with the B+ pot, re-cap the chassis first, and if there's no change, then you have to break that epoxy off (without breaking the pot) to adjust it. you want 117V I believe.

that is of course if it's a B+ issue. you could alternatively also inspect the flyback for cracks, see if it took a poo. my information could potentially be wrong, cause I've never had to do this on a U5000 before, only the other 2.

The B+ test point is always TP202, but it's in different spots on each chassis.

And as for breaking off the glue - I never do that. If it's off by a significant amount, adjusting the pot isn't your solution. You have something else wrong. And no sense breaking the glue for 2 or 3 volts of difference. I've usually found the pot is good or bad, and any B+ issues to be related to other problems...
 
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