Whirlwind - display problem

InstantArcade

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My Whirlwind was working, but I had issues with a bad driver row, and the backbox GI which caused me to pull the main CPU board and reflow some connectors.

After replacing everything, I get the factory defaults message as expected, but the display is weak and flickering (some digits not appearing at all).

After a few more tries of turning it on and off to get through the factory reset, the display is now totally blank :(

I measured the high voltage output, and the 100v side is right at 103v, but the -100v is measuring +143v :O

Display was working fine before I messed with the CPU board, and it could be a coincidence that the display is now hosed.

Any ideas?
 
I don't *think* so, but I will double check. At least one of the sockets is empty, but I noticed that as I removed the connectors. The ones where there was some doubt were already marked by the previous owner.

It might be possible that I plugged one in upside down though now I think about it. I should have taken a photo before I disconnected everything.
 
check www.pinrepair.com as the repairguide explains the voltages you need for displays in details
I would not connect the display again with such a weird voltage, there are some difficult to find ic's on that board you really don't want to break
 
I had this problem on my WhirlWind years ago. It was the power board that needed to be rebuilt. I think the pinball guy in upstate NY did it. Steve something....
 
Actually here's his link

http://www.pbresource.com/

email him maybe he'll help. He was pretty cranky when I dealt with him. He repaired it mailed it back and never sent me an invoice to pay him. I called and he got cranky insisting that the invoice was in the box. I never heard anyone getting pissed because you wanted to pay him.
 
I messed up when measuring the voltages. The PSU board is good. With the HV plug disconnected I get 99.8v and -99.4v which is close enough.

However, when I connect the cable and turn it on, I only get ~22v at the +100v pin :(

Perhaps one of the displays is shorted? Or one of the chips is bad?

Hopefully is something simple like a bad diode :)
 
http://www.pinrepair.com/sys11/index3.htm#display

[SIZE=-1]Replace the 39k ohm Power Supply Resistors.
The major villain in the system 11 power supply are resistors R1 and R4. These are both 39k ohm, 1 watt resistors. Very often either or both of these resistors will go out of spec, or even completely open. This will prevent the +100 and/or -100 volts from getting to the score displays. These two resistors are mounted on the system 11 power supply board. (on newer WPC games with alphanumeric displays, these are resistors R48 and R49 on the alphanumeric display board). As a general rule, I always change these resistors (trust me, they've had a tough life, and need to be replaced, even if they test as "good").
[/SIZE]
 
Yeah, I looked at that before, but the power supply checks out fine until I plug in the display board. Is it possible the resistors only go out of spec only when connected? I'll probably replace them just for fun anyway.
 
Yes, I also had this (also on a whirlwind btw)
voltages measured correctly but display didn't work (owner said they'd work when it was cold). Connected displays and voltages dropped.
Replaced the 39K resistors and they looked like new again :)
Those resistors are cheap and easy to replace, so it's worth a try.
 
I had this exact problem and one of the 39K resistors had pulled away from the board. Marvin's site guided me to the light and a simple 5 minute fix and my display was fresh as new.

HTH,
Evan
 
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Fry's sucked and didn't have anything, so I went to All Electronics. They only had 1/2 watt resistors in 39K, but I wanted to try it today.

I jury rigged something to get 39K at 1 watt, and it worked :)

It doesn't look pretty, but proves my point. And I'll get the proper 2 watt replacements now I know it's good.

Thanks for the help everyone.
 

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I got my Whirlwind fully working yesterday afternoon. Fixed a couple optos for the targets, rebuilt the upper flipper that someone used WD 40 on, replaced all the burned out bulbs. Played a few games and I was happy.

I ate dinner, watched the tube, then figured I'd go out to the garage and play a few games before going to bed. After maybe one game, my displays were dim and flickering after looking fine earlier in the day. Checked the HV voltages at the PS, +100 wanders from 80 to 95 depending on what is being displayed and -100v is at -78v. So evidently R1 and R4 shot craps just like that. Sure was a quick demise.

Unfortunately I don't have any 39k ohm resistors on hand and RS doesn't stock them. Placed an order with GPE. Guess I'll have to wait a few days to play it, its not fun to play without being able to see your score.
 
I got my Whirlwind fully working yesterday afternoon. Fixed a couple optos for the targets, rebuilt the upper flipper that someone used WD 40 on, replaced all the burned out bulbs. Played a few games and I was happy.

I ate dinner, watched the tube, then figured I'd go out to the garage and play a few games before going to bed. After maybe one game, my displays were dim and flickering after looking fine earlier in the day. Checked the HV voltages at the PS, +100 wanders from 80 to 95 depending on what is being displayed and -100v is at -78v. So evidently R1 and R4 shot craps just like that. Sure was a quick demise.

Unfortunately I don't have any 39k ohm resistors on hand and RS doesn't stock them. Placed an order with GPE. Guess I'll have to wait a few days to play it, its not fun to play without being able to see your score.

At least it's good to know (and cheaper!) that it's resistors you need to replace instead of the displays. I picked up mine with the displays dead thinking I was gonna shell out money for some led displays and come to find out I only had to spend less than a dollar to get it working again!!! lol
 
At least it's good to know (and cheaper!) that it's resistors you need to replace instead of the displays. I picked up mine with the displays dead thinking I was gonna shell out money for some led displays and come to find out I only had to spend less than a dollar to get it working again!!! lol

Yes, I'm very glad it is an easy, inexpensive fix. I removed the resistors and one measures 63k ohm and the other is open. Definitely the problem!
 
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