Where to buy new CRT Monitors?

That's not really true, you need games to run for 8 hours a day for months if not years to accumulate any burn. Barely anyone in a home setting will ever contribute to burn.
It was a joke, but i think some people just leave them on because they like the sounds and they look cool. Some people are just looking for perfect and dont realize what they are giving up when they toss a the great highly repairable originals and drop in Vision Pro or worse to replace it.

I would agree that the availability of donor tubes is deminishing. My buddy Steve who works delivering debris boxes said they would sort the pickups and used to fill up a bin with tvs frequently (like daily). I asked more recently and he said maybe 1 a week.

But there are many options out there. Check Facebook, Craigslist, offer up, ect. Hit yardsales and fleamarkets. If your area has annual free cleanups, you can do drive by shopping. Contact an ewaste place and see if they might help. They might be hesitant, offer them a 1 for 1 trade or even 2 for 1 trade.

Maybe post on Facebook you're looking to buy 90's era tvs and will pay for them. Problem is, you're not alone hunting. Retro gamers want them too. So instead of free, you might have to pay.
 
I'm not sure I understand the point of all this, but I just did my first tube swap on my Pole Position cockpit and it's freaking awesome.

It's the only machine I have that really needed it due to the light colors,

I have a Super Pac with a jamma adapter running an arcadeSD board that could use a donor tube for certain games but most of the time it's not noticeable when playing.

I'm seeing less and less consumer TV's in the 19" variety.
 
New is not always better. Things are not made to last anymore. My new car has had 6 or 7 recalls it's a pos give me vintage any day.
Curious as to what brand?
 
It seemed like not so long ago that I bought 2 brand new Vision Pro monitors, 1 for my Pole Position cockpit. Had to have been 2006.
 
I'm not sure I understand the point of all this, but I just did my first tube swap on my Pole Position cockpit and it's freaking awesome.

It's the only machine I have that really needed it due to the light colors,

I have a Super Pac with a jamma adapter running an arcadeSD board that could use a donor tube for certain games but most of the time it's not noticeable when playing.

I'm seeing less and less consumer TV's in the 19" variety.

no one is saying not to swap. if its a the weak looking pic, outside of the neckboard cap(but do a full chassis recap), probably you next best shot on that is trying the rejuivnator. I had an outrun with a k7000 in it. the image was there, but it was pretty dim. could not turn it up any higher and I tried a rebuilt chassis on it. no real change. hit it with my bk490 rejuvenator and it was so bright after, I had to turn it down a bit.

one bit of advice, watch the youtube videos. practice on trashed tubes (bad pac burn, missile command, ect.). but mainly dont force it. someone posted the bk series is powerful. I think it charges up a bit to clear (your supposed to wait 10 or 20 seconds before you hit the gun button). you can see it doing something on the meter when you hit the buuon, but if it does not clear or looking to clear in say 3 or 4 seconds, stop. move to the next gun, and the next gun. and then get back to the first one. If your in a somewhat dark room, if you look at the neck of the tube when you hit the gun button. you can see it turn on the gun bright orange. much brighter than normal on. So if you persists, its likely to kill the gun!! thats why I dont go too long and give it a chance to cool down.

it might take 2 or 3 rounds, but eventually you will get thru. once you do, I usually go back to the setup point, set the levels again (usually they are too high once it gets thru), then do the next 2 guns. then go back and check the setup again. check to see that all is good, then go to clean and balance.

I have very little luck with k4600 and the rejuvenator. it seems like the guns on that tube usually fail in the process. k7000, g07, 4900, hantrex, sanyo all seem strong enough to survive and show improvement.
 
New is not always better. Things are not made to last anymore. My new car has had 6 or 7 recalls it's a pos give me vintage any day.
very true.

My 2007 e320 bluetec just had a transmission problem (reverse works, but no go in drive). It has 220k miles on it, but it was running great. my brother suggested to get a new car(usually we buy certified pre owned ones). but as I told him why? Just about all these newer cars are running with plastic timing belts, shutdown cylinders, and have cvt transmissions. I dont want any of that crap in my car! I do like all the newer safety features, but can live without them. plus this car is fun to drive and pretty quick for a diesel (0-60 in 6.8). so its getting its transmission rebuilt ($6k ouch).
 
Curious as to what brand?
I'm pretty sure he said it was a Ford in another thread, but, really, it could be any of them. GM had a huge recall of their 6.2L engines, Toyota recalled 440,000 vehicles yesterday, tesla recalled around 45,000 cybertrucks recently.
 
no one is saying not to swap. if its a the weak looking pic, outside of the neckboard cap(but do a full chassis recap), probably you next best shot on that is trying the rejuivnator. I had an outrun with a k7000 in it. the image was there, but it was pretty dim. could not turn it up any higher and I tried a rebuilt chassis on it. no real change. hit it with my bk490 rejuvenator and it was so bright after, I had to turn it down a bit.

one bit of advice, watch the youtube videos. practice on trashed tubes (bad pac burn, missile command, ect.). but mainly dont force it. someone posted the bk series is powerful. I think it charges up a bit to clear (your supposed to wait 10 or 20 seconds before you hit the gun button). you can see it doing something on the meter when you hit the buuon, but if it does not clear or looking to clear in say 3 or 4 seconds, stop. move to the next gun, and the next gun. and then get back to the first one. If your in a somewhat dark room, if you look at the neck of the tube when you hit the gun button. you can see it turn on the gun bright orange. much brighter than normal on. So if you persists, its likely to kill the gun!! thats why I dont go too long and give it a chance to cool down.

it might take 2 or 3 rounds, but eventually you will get thru. once you do, I usually go back to the setup point, set the levels again (usually they are too high once it gets thru), then do the next 2 guns. then go back and check the setup again. check to see that all is good, then go to clean and balance.

I have very little luck with k4600 and the rejuvenator. it seems like the guns on that tube usually fail in the process. k7000, g07, 4900, hantrex, sanyo all seem strong enough to survive and show improvement.
The reason for my swap was screen burn, it looked like pollution in my otherwise clear blue skies.
The chassis was a solid G07, rebuilt by a well known G07_guy, and I did hit the tube with my BK467, but the burn in bugged me.

Great advice on the rejuv process brother, I haven't done it a lot and try to stick with a clean and balance and set tracking unless there is an issue. I had. Galaga cocktail with a funny line through the screen, tried another chassis but it persisted. The 467 fixed it 100%
 
The reason for my swap was screen burn, it looked like pollution in my otherwise clear blue skies.
The chassis was a solid G07, rebuilt by a well known G07_guy, and I did hit the tube with my BK467, but the burn in bugged me.

Great advice on the rejuv process brother, I haven't done it a lot and try to stick with a clean and balance and set tracking unless there is an issue. I had. Galaga cocktail with a funny line through the screen, tried another chassis but it persisted. The 467 fixed it 100%

screen burn can be annoying on some games. put it in a pac and usually no one will notice it with the tint screen on. back in the late 80's when I was early into collecting, I would pull a monitor out of a cab I was keeping if it 1: had any screen burn, 2: was not a k4900, g07, or k7000. swap the monitor into a game I was going to sell. back then it was easy. different world today.

When I got my bk490, I dont think there were youtube videos on how to use it. A friend of mine showed me how it worked. I read the manual. I watched a few of the videos, and they did not offer up any info on taking it slow. I dont see the harm to it (If so, someone will speak up). But the one time I did push it, cooked the gun on a k7000 25" tube. the meter was bouncing and moving towards the point, but after about 10+ seconds, it just went to zero..
 
screen burn can be annoying on some games. put it in a pac and usually no one will notice it with the tint screen on. back in the late 80's when I was early into collecting, I would pull a monitor out of a cab I was keeping if it 1: had any screen burn, 2: was not a k4900, g07, or k7000. swap the monitor into a game I was going to sell. back then it was easy. different world today.

When I got my bk490, I dont think there were youtube videos on how to use it. A friend of mine showed me how it worked. I read the manual. I watched a few of the videos, and they did not offer up any info on taking it slow. I dont see the harm to it (If so, someone will speak up). But the one time I did push it, cooked the gun on a k7000 25" tube. the meter was bouncing and moving towards the point, but after about 10+ seconds, it just went to zero..
The videos helped me put a basic procedure together, I'll definitely add in waiting between steps. 👍🏻
 
screen burn can be annoying on some games. put it in a pac and usually no one will notice it with the tint screen on. back in the late 80's when I was early into collecting, I would pull a monitor out of a cab I was keeping if it 1: had any screen burn, 2: was not a k4900, g07, or k7000. swap the monitor into a game I was going to sell. back then it was easy. different world today.

When I got my bk490, I dont think there were youtube videos on how to use it. A friend of mine showed me how it worked. I read the manual. I watched a few of the videos, and they did not offer up any info on taking it slow. I dont see the harm to it (If so, someone will speak up). But the one time I did push it, cooked the gun on a k7000 25" tube. the meter was bouncing and moving towards the point, but after about 10+ seconds, it just went to zero..
Rejuvenators need to be calibrated or you are in danger of screwing up your tubes you attach to it. Like anything else that old, it needs to be serviced to work properly.

Del
 
Rejuvenators need to be calibrated or you are in danger of screwing up your tubes you attach to it. Like anything else that old, it needs to be serviced to work properly.

Del

I think I spoke to you about this and I need to send it to get serviced. I have had it for 20+ years and its worked fine on maybe 200+ tubes, but servicing it is a good idea. I really only have lost maybe 5 tubes. 1 k7000, I think 1 g07, and like 2 or 3 k4600.

I have not used it much recently. A friend of mine asked me to hit a monitor he had, went over and he neglected to tell me it was a cocktail he was working on. I told him it was not a good idea on a cocktail. but he did not know if the tube was good and was going work on the chassis as it was doa when he got it. I metered it and all 3 guns looked really good and told him to rebuild it and then we can decide. but told him if it needed it, he needed to put the monitor in an upright cabinet.
 
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I'm pretty sure he said it was a Ford in another thread, but, really, it could be any of them. GM had a huge recall of their 6.2L engines, Toyota recalled 440,000 vehicles yesterday, tesla recalled around 45,000 cybertrucks recently.
They all have service departments for a reason..
 
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No, new isn't always better. I'm not talking absolutes but rather odds. If you take a cross-country trip for example, you'll have less problems with a newer vehicle rather than a vintage one.
I think there are multiple reasons people prefer new cars to vintage cars: more comfortable, safer, more efficient, more convenient.

A vintage car can potentially be reliable (if literally everything on it has been rebuilt or replaced) but who wants the poor ride quality, the squeaks, the lack of AC, airbags, and ABS, the low gas mileage, the lack of gps & carplay, having to use additives on every gas fill up, etc.

Sure, people make cross country trips in those cars occasionally, but using one as a daily driver is next level commitment!
 
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