What would make a kick out go bonkers

Smart Bomb

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Playing my pin to give it a test run (space shuttle) and the left kick out, when the ball kicks it away it continues to keep kicking rapidly. What would be the cause of this? The remedy? The game is 100% playable but that kick out goes nuts once its activated.

It will go for about 10 seconds then stop....and does it all over again once its hit.

I lifted the palyfield and i did not see anything out of the ordinary one it or around it. I also compared the mechanics of it to the kicker on the right and nothing looks out of whack.
 
Yep..u guys were right...one of the leaf switches were touching...i bent it out a little with leaf switch tool...works fine now..but both kick outs dont seem to kick out too aggressive...they are kinda weak compared to my other 2 pins.
 
First thing to check is the cleanliness of the mechanical assemblies. Most assemblies do not need grease. Coil plungers should be clean and shiny (no grease ever on plungers). Always replace coil sleeves with brand new ones. Most regular coils use a 1-3/4" long sleeve. If the plunger is not worn, I clean it and polish it with either SimiChrome polish (kinda pricey, but well worth it) or good old Brasso polish.

Second thing is check for excessive "slop" in the mechanical parts? Example: check the slingshot kicker arms on top of the playfield. Can you wiggle them side-to side more than an 1/8 of an inch? If so, they are worn and need to be replaced. Excessive slop causes "lost motion" in an assembly and makes it weaker than it should be.

Third thing is incorrect activating switch gap. Too far of a gap can make the assembly seen sluggish/weak.

When I rebuild a machine, I install many new parts where needed to bring a particular assembly up to snuff. On machines where the machine has had a lot of play, you may need to rebuild quite a few of the playfield assemblies. I like to take an assembly completely apart and wash it and all of it's parts. That way it's easier to see what parts may be worn to the point of needing to be replaced.
 
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Yep..u guys were right...one of the leaf switches were touching...i bent it out a little with leaf switch tool...works fine now..but both kick outs dont seem to kick out too aggressive...they are kinda weak compared to my other 2 pins.

Would probably need to see video of what yours looks like, but all they're really doing is nudging the locked balls out of the holes for multiball, they shouldn't be functioning like a VUK. That said, take a look at the assembly as the other poster noted if it looks SUPER weak.
 
First thing to check is the cleanliness of the mechanical assemblies. Most assemblies do not need grease. Coil plungers should be clean and shiny (no grease ever on plungers). Always replace coil sleeves with brand new ones. Most regular coils use a 1-3/4" long sleeve. If the plunger is not worn, I clean it and polish it with either SimiChrome polish (kinda pricey, but well worth it) or good old Brasso polish.

Second thing is check for excessive "slop" in the mechanical parts? Example: check the slingshot kicker arms on top of the playfield. Can you wiggle them side-to side more than an 1/8 of an inch? If so, they are worn and need to be replaced. Excessive slop causes "lost motion" in an assembly and makes it weaker than it should be.

Third thing is incorrect activating switch gap. Too far of a gap can make the assembly seen sluggish/weak.

When I rebuild a machine, I install many new parts where needed to bring a particular assembly up to snuff. On machines where the machine has had a lot of play, you may need to rebuild quite a few of the playfield assemblies. I like to take an assembly completely apart and wash it and all of it's parts. That way it's easier to see what parts may be worn to the point of needing to be replaced.

this is most excellent advice for anyone wanting to make their pinball machine play like new - switches, plungers & coil sleeves are often overlooked by new owners
 
Would probably need to see video of what yours looks like, but all they're really doing is nudging the locked balls out of the holes for multiball, they shouldn't be functioning like a VUK. That said, take a look at the assembly as the other poster noted if it looks SUPER weak.

I meant sling shots
 
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