What Paint To Spray.

jimkirk

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What kind of paint do you guys use to spray cabs.
I figure Enamel but where do you buy it.
Sherwin Williams or elsewhere?
What is the specific brand and type i.e Proclassic alkyd enamel.
I have proclassic acrylic waterborne enamel,but don't know it I can spray through a suction feed spray gun.
I would like some options and was thinking of getting the S.W. alkyd enamel even though it only is available in quarts here.
Any help would be appreciated.
 
Ive always rolled mine on with a foam roller. If you prep it right, its turns out great. I may try to spray a cab and see how it turns out. Sorry, no help here. :)
 
I was rolling mine but the results suck.:(
It was prepped right but I can't get the paint smooth.
I am going to spray it now.
 
roll it with a good oil base and they look new as long as they are prep good
 
I am not screwing with a roller anymore.:mad:
I guess I will have to get oil based S.W. Proclassic enamel in quarts,since it is not available in 1/2 or 1 gal amounts.
 
I always roll ... basically, because I do not have a compressor or gun. But ... also because I like the finished result of using a foam roller. Here are some mistakes I have made that I have learned from that might help you:

1. Prep, prep, and prep some more. The prettier the wood looks when you start, the nicer your end result is going to be down the road.

2. Use a quality paint. I have used water based and oil based. Oil based can be a PITA to clean up, but it generally leaves a nicer finish. Spend a few extra bucks and buy QUALITY paint. Don't just walk into Ace hardware and buy something off the shelf.

3. Use a primer. Do not apply paint to bare wood. Make your job easier and mix in a little of your color with the primer.

4. Take your time. It is not a race. Leave plenty of drying time in between coats, sand lightly between coats, and roll your paint on slowly and evenly. If you see some unevenness or some bubbling, roll over that area again (not with more paint ... with the empty roller). Keep rolling until smooth. If it starts getting tacky on you, add a little bit of wet paint and keep rolling until smooth. If you screw up royally, let it dry, sand the affected area, and start over. Applying more paint will only continue to compound any problems that you might have created.

5. Use a foam roller. Throw it away when you are done with each coat and start with a fresh one. They are cheap and cleaning them sucks.

I hope this helps ... I have had good results. I hope that you do as well.

Steve
MM
 
I always roll ... basically, because I do not have a compressor or gun. But ... also because I like the finished result of using a foam roller. Here are some mistakes I have made that I have learned from that might help you:

1. Prep, prep, and prep some more. The prettier the wood looks when you start, the nicer your end result is going to be down the road.

2. Use a quality paint. I have used water based and oil based. Oil based can be a PITA to clean up, but it generally leaves a nicer finish. Spend a few extra bucks and buy QUALITY paint. Don't just walk into Ace hardware and buy something off the shelf.

3. Use a primer. Do not apply paint to bare wood. Make your job easier and mix in a little of your color with the primer.

4. Take your time. It is not a race. Leave plenty of drying time in between coats, sand lightly between coats, and roll your paint on slowly and evenly. If you see some unevenness or some bubbling, roll over that area again (not with more paint ... with the empty roller). Keep rolling until smooth. If it starts getting tacky on you, add a little bit of wet paint and keep rolling until smooth. If you screw up royally, let it dry, sand the affected area, and start over. Applying more paint will only continue to compound any problems that you might have created.

5. Use a foam roller. Throw it away when you are done with each coat and start with a fresh one. They are cheap and cleaning them sucks.

I hope this helps ... I have had good results. I hope that you do as well.

Steve
MM


Good points. I'd add that using a splash of thinner in the oil paint really helps it go on smoothly. The issue? Sometimes its so smooth that getting a final coat to 'stick' is tough.
 
When you guys sand between coats,do you sand all the texture out?
I rolled a coat on yesterday and no matter how much paint I put on the roller it didn't seem to flow and left a semi rough finish,like there wasn't enough paint.
It was kinda warm so that might have something to do with it.
I am using Sherwin Williams Proclassic Acrylic Enamel (Waterborne) paint.

By the way,no one has told what brands and types of paint they use.
 
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Sand the primer to be smooth. Wipe away excess dust.
Use the small ass rollers and roll the paint on THIN. Every cabinet I've restored took 3-4 coats. No need to thin the paint - just thin your strokes.

Paints - bah everyone has their opinions (seriously you need to use the search engine on this site as there are assloads of info on this subject including paint wars on what's best)

Let me add, when you use the small foam rollers you can load them up with paint and push the hell out of them and really spread the paint across the face of the cabinet. Alternate - one time go up and down next time side to side. There are no bumps or glops this way. Like I said 3-4 coats and you have a freaking smooth finish.
 
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Sand the primer to be smooth. Wipe away excess dust.
Use the small ass rollers and roll the paint on THIN. Every cabinet I've restored took 3-4 coats. No need to thin the paint - just thin your strokes.

Paints - bah everyone has their opinions (seriously you need to use the search engine on this site as there are assloads of info on this subject including paint wars on what's best)

Let me add, when you use the small foam rollers you can load them up with paint and push the hell out of them and really spread the paint across the face of the cabinet. Alternate - one time go up and down next time side to side. There are no bumps or glops this way. Like I said 3-4 coats and you have a freaking smooth finish.

I used the search engine and there is only latex or enamel,not a specific brand.
 
Sherwin Williams
Proclassic oil based (sorry can't be more specific)
you will need to thin this to spray but it will definitely spray.

due to the limited base colors they have they can not mix some colors so depending on the color you may need to find another option.
 
While you can get excellent results with a roller (if done properly), you just can't beat an HVLP sprayer. No matter which route you go, proper cab prep is the key.
 
What if you use a leveling agent with the rolled on paint? Case haven't heard of it, it's used to reduce or eliminate brush marks when brushing paint on. Basically reduces the viscosity of the paint. Anybody tried it?
 
dont roll use a good hvlp gun and a good compressor with dry clean air and you will be much happier. if i have some laying around i will shoot a urethane primer also that stuff is bitchin
 
I have been painting my DK using Proclassic Acrylic Enamel waterborne and a HVLP gun.
I had to thin the paint pretty good and am using Flotrol.
I had a problem with runs,so am spraying the cab lying on it's side.
I have never sprayed water base paint before and it's a little different going on than oil based.
So far it looks great.
 
Sprayed with an HVLP gun will nearly always look better than foam roller application.

Use Penetrol for oil based or Floetrol for water based, as a flowing agent. Smooths the paint out, and I'd recommend it as about 5% of your total mix if spraying.


Joey
 
If your latex is running when sprayed on you are either spraying on too much or have thinned the paint too much. Although I prefer oil based paint I have used latex and never had an issue with it running.
 
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