what is simplest way to test an Atari power brick?

vintagegamer

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I have an Atari power brick for a cocktail game that I want to test so I can sell it. I posted it here about 3 wks ago or so, and was advised it might be worthwhile to make sure it worked prior to selling. The components are all nice and clean, and the source told me it came from a working game (I got it when I was piecing my Tempest together).

Prob is, it's for a cocktail and I don't a cocktail game so, I don't have one that I can drop it into. I have a power cord I can hook up to it, but does that make the thing "live" automatically with no power switches of any kind hooked up to it?

Also, if someone can tell me a few test points that are the best to check on it using a DMM that would be a great help too.

VG
 
Brother, I have posted this info roughly a gazillion times.

Can you throw me a link then? I have gamerADD and every time I do a search for something like this, I end up derailing and reading who's restoring the latest Quantum instead! :(

EDIT: OK so I found the below link, which sounds like I can't just plug in and do some test points, because the first posts mention that you have to make some kind of harness to do the check. If that's the case I'll just sell it untested.

http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=114098&highlight=test+power+brick
 
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You're not going to be able to test it outside of a cab unless you bypass the interlocks.

Just takes a jumper or two...

SDC11010-1.jpg
 
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I have an Atari power brick for a cocktail game that I want to test so I can sell it. I posted it here about 3 wks ago or so, and was advised it might be worthwhile to make sure it worked prior to selling. The components are all nice and clean, and the source told me it came from a working game (I got it when I was piecing my Tempest together).

Prob is, it's for a cocktail and I don't a cocktail game so, I don't have one that I can drop it into. I have a power cord I can hook up to it, but does that make the thing "live" automatically with no power switches of any kind hooked up to it?

Also, if someone can tell me a few test points that are the best to check on it using a DMM that would be a great help too.

VG

Someone will correct me if I'm wrong......but I'm pretty sure cocktail vs. upright use the same transformer assembly. There's no reason you shouldn't be able to test that in an upright (assuming you have an upright).

Edward
 
Someone will correct me if I'm wrong......but I'm pretty sure cocktail vs. upright use the same transformer assembly. There's no reason you shouldn't be able to test that in an upright (assuming you have an upright).

Edward

The 15-pin connector on the brick in question has the female pins inside the connector, where the UR (at least my Tempest) had male pins inside the connector.

I still haven't gotten to test it yet anyway. :(
 
The 15-pin connector on the brick in question has the female pins inside the connector, where the UR (at least my Tempest) had male pins inside the connector.

I still haven't gotten to test it yet anyway. :(

Vector transformer assemblies and raster asseblies have different pinouts.

A Tempest transformer assembly is the same for cocktail, mini, and upright.

A Centipede transformer transformer assembly is the same for cocktail, mini, and upright.

A Tempest transformer assembly will drop into any Atari color vector game....regardless of cabinet style.

A Centipede transformer assembly will drop into any Atari color raster game (post-Missile Command...and pre-System 1).....regardless of cabinet style.

Edward
 
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