Lindsey
Well-known member
Of course they wouldn't. It's an inferior product just like I said
I doubt anyone would argue that automotive clear provides better results on playfields. Anyone who's actually use both anyway.
What do you think of this playfield?
- Thread starter vipe155
- Start date
Of course they wouldn't. It's an inferior product just like I said
I doubt anyone would argue that automotive clear provides better results on playfields. Anyone who's actually use both anyway.
splattergatz
Well-known member
automotive clear reacts with the surface and bonds with it. when you sand the playfield with 1600+ before spraying, the sanding scratches disappear. its really weird why that happens, the first time i was so amazed cause i thought i had ruined the playfield with all the scratch marks. but then i sprayed it anyway and magic !
i remember now once i used some sort of verathane on a stainless steel sculpture i made. it came out hard as a rock and seemed easy to paint on with a paint brush. the only thing i noticed was it wasnt a perfectly smooth surface, but that application it didnt need to be. it was clear as a bell and adhered real good. maybe the uneven surface was due to my paint brush or the material was hardening i dont know, i cant even believe i remember that.
i do remember thinking about painting a vehicle with it but thought it wouldnt look as good on steel as it did on stainless steel. either way i abandoned the thought.
seems like the point of the whole thing is to get a nice smooth surface for the ball to roll on and to have the material adhere to for far as long as possible. if you do decide to go with the automotive clear,(or even with the spray can clear which i think is the same if not similiar. just be careful about buying the foggy "clear" in the spray cans) dont spray it on real thick, go with light layers with about 15 minutes in between coats. the clear reacts with the surface and "off gasses" quite a bit. its bad to trap those gasses in there with too thick of coats and even too soon of coats. probably the same if not longer with the verathane, but i dont know.
if you do decide to go with the verathane, lets us know (or even pictures) how it works out.
good luck
i remember now once i used some sort of verathane on a stainless steel sculpture i made. it came out hard as a rock and seemed easy to paint on with a paint brush. the only thing i noticed was it wasnt a perfectly smooth surface, but that application it didnt need to be. it was clear as a bell and adhered real good. maybe the uneven surface was due to my paint brush or the material was hardening i dont know, i cant even believe i remember that.
i do remember thinking about painting a vehicle with it but thought it wouldnt look as good on steel as it did on stainless steel. either way i abandoned the thought.
seems like the point of the whole thing is to get a nice smooth surface for the ball to roll on and to have the material adhere to for far as long as possible. if you do decide to go with the automotive clear,(or even with the spray can clear which i think is the same if not similiar. just be careful about buying the foggy "clear" in the spray cans) dont spray it on real thick, go with light layers with about 15 minutes in between coats. the clear reacts with the surface and "off gasses" quite a bit. its bad to trap those gasses in there with too thick of coats and even too soon of coats. probably the same if not longer with the verathane, but i dont know.
if you do decide to go with the verathane, lets us know (or even pictures) how it works out.
good luck
Burt6666
Well-known member
Make sure the playfield prop rod isn't there to crack the finish.....
You really should never use the playfield prop rod.
Steelhorse
New member
Why is that? It there for a reason right? All I ever heard is you dont want to leave it for long periods of time on the prop rod.
