What causes a shaky image on a k7000?

I have seen it happen a ton of times, which makes repairs easy, most recently:

IMG_20110724_162808.jpg

I think you forgot to read the line of text I was quoting when I made that post. I was referring to the filter cap on a K7000, and how I'd never seen one go bad.

Caps fail exploded quite commonly, as well as leak, etc. That's nothing unusual. Please to be reading posts before taking people's comments out of context and applying them to something else.

-Ian
 
I think you forgot to read the line of text I was quoting when I made that post. I was referring to the filter cap on a K7000, and how I'd never seen one go bad.

Caps fail exploded quite commonly, as well as leak, etc. That's nothing unusual. Please to be reading posts before taking people's comments out of context and applying them to something else.

-Ian

Sorry Ian, I skipped over that.
 
There's a lot in this thread and things get skipped or missed it happens, i'm still very thankful for everyones help. :D
 
What does it sound like? POP? Bam? Kaboom? :D

any time any of my caps on PC Motherboards went i heard a loud pop, or random snapping of a ruler. most of these were all dried up caps tho, not sure how much noise the ones with liquid still in them make.
 
What does it sound like? POP? Bam? Kaboom? :D

Where's the kaboom? There was supposed to be an earth-shattering kaboom...

Depends on the type and size of the cap. If you install an electrolytic backwards by mistake, it's usually a *PPFFFFTT!!!!!* SSSSSsssssssssssfff sound as they vent. Yeah, I'll admit it, I've done it once or twice.

Too much voltage on an electrolytic causes it to explode violently, with a loud POP! I did that once when repairing something - I used a 16 volt cap where a 160v cap was needed. The schematic was printed wrong and the original cap was missing.

Tantalum capacitors, when they fail, fail shorted. If they're on some rail with enough current, they can explode violently with a loud bang/pop. Or, if there was something further back in the circuit, you'll get a nice sizzle.. crackle... and a lot of smoke as a resistor burns. Sometimes tantalums will burn - had one fail on a hard disk and burned a hole in the board the size of a dime.

I've seen semiconductors explode too. One of the guys at a previous job plugged a PC into a 220v server rack. That was an impressive bang, blew the chopper transistors in the power supply completely apart.

Of course, if you want to see some capacitors explode, you could simply solder them onto a power cable and plug 'em into the wall. Electrolytics don't like AC. A power cord with alligator clips, and the junk capacitors from fixing monitors might be an acceptable substitute for fire crackers...

-Ian
 
Where's the kaboom? There was supposed to be an earth-shattering kaboom...

Actually, some very large capacitors, like the filter caps used in car audio, make a really incredible BOOM sound if you connect them to mains AC on accident. Sounds like a pipe bomb going off.
 
Actually, some very large capacitors, like the filter caps used in car audio, make a really incredible BOOM sound if you connect them to mains AC on accident. Sounds like a pipe bomb going off.

if you wire them backwards they spray and ooze acid all over the place (don't ask how i know this). Car audio caps scare me (even tho i own one in my car currently lol).
 
Actually, some very large capacitors, like the filter caps used in car audio, make a really incredible BOOM sound if you connect them to mains AC on accident. Sounds like a pipe bomb going off.

I don't doubt it. Although, one wonders how you *accidentally* connect a car audio filter cap to household wall current...

-Ian
 
recap the thing, check recheck and recheck for krappy solder.

CHeck over the flyback well. see any hairline cracks? REPLACE IT..


if that was mine id do caps flyback and solder checkover, then see if my issues improved.

your issue looks eerily simular to what another klover descibed with the random "flashing"

He replaced the fly and issue was gone. also give the remote board a little tap to make sure you dont have a worn out pot or loose connection causing issues. wiggle the remote board cable too..
 
recap the thing, check recheck and recheck for krappy solder.

CHeck over the flyback well. see any hairline cracks? REPLACE IT..


if that was mine id do caps flyback and solder checkover, then see if my issues improved.

your issue looks eerily simular to what another klover descibed with the random "flashing"

He replaced the fly and issue was gone. also give the remote board a little tap to make sure you dont have a worn out pot or loose connection causing issues. wiggle the remote board cable too..

It's all fixed, it was an issue of adjusting the Vhold along with some tweaking of the screen pot on the flyback (screen pot addressed a different issue of red screen edge). No cap or flyback kit needed :D
 
It's all fixed, it was an issue of adjusting the Vhold along with some tweaking of the screen pot on the flyback (screen pot addressed a different issue of red screen edge). No cap or flyback kit needed :D

......untill tommorow lol

i hope for your sake you got it adjusted out. I do suspect a pot issue internal to the flyback..
 
......untill tommorow lol

i hope for your sake you got it adjusted out. I do suspect a pot issue internal to the flyback..

heh yea you could be right about tomorrow lol, I need to put a couple hours of game time on it and make sure it's 100% but sure seems to be :D
 
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