What causes a shaky image on a k7000?

[mecha]

seems the ceramique is the only one thats 100% non thermal conductive too.

oh, yeah, silver has some conductive properties... another knock on it. lol when I replaced the heatsink on my old Core 2 Duo comp, I used ceramique instead of AS5 and it actually worked out very well.

it's pretty good. I first started using it when I had to replace some voltage regulators on our Wheel of Fortune (the ticket-spitting kind) and was impressed at how well it bonded and filled in. I hadn't used that kind of stuff since like maybe 2000 back when I was new to computer builds, and that was the Radio Shack kind. I think ceramique may have actually replaced that, cause it's actually Radio Shack branded on the packaging.

 

[Broodwich]

I've always had good results with Arctic Silver products, i always use the AS-5 on anything PC/console related, their Arctic Clean is a great product for removing stubborn TIM, and the Arctic Silver Adhesive is what i used to put a new heatsink on my KI board.

 

[roothorick]

I use the Ceramique because the silver breaks down over time. the white stuff, even the generic radio shack stuff, will last a long time.

and the reason I built out my supergun was for plugging some of my shit ass MK boards in for the patterns for calibrating monitors lol

When it comes to irreplaceable custom ICs, which we run into a lot in this hobby, there's no such thing as overkill

 

[Tighe]

I just wanted to add, that in MVC the game will do a slight zoom in during the action on certain moves.

Edit: I watched the video and I see what you are talking about. It also looks like the vertical hold is lost for a second besides the white flash. Does your monitor have a remote board? It wouldn't hurt to check the value ranges of the pots with a multimeter. I had something similar on my Neo Geo, and I found that the shitty pot was cracked. I replaced it and problem solved. Shoot a little deoxIT in the pot if they are reading funny.

 

[Broodwich]

yea, this is a definite flash of the screen (mainly when doing the special moves) and on spinals rooftop in KI. The shake i'm pretty sure is just the normal warm up shake as it's not noticeable later on after the game has warmed up. But the flash is constant no matter if the game is warm or cold.

 

[Tighe]

yea, this is a definite flash of the screen (mainly when doing the special moves) and on spinals rooftop in KI. The shake i'm pretty sure is just the normal warm up shake as it's not noticeable later on after the game has warmed up. But the flash is constant no matter if the game is warm or cold.

I am no expert but based on the video I would say that it is bloom. Try turning the screen knob on the flyback down a little and see if it goes away. You won't want to leave it like that as the screen will be dark.

 

[Broodwich]

will definitely try that tonight when i get a free minute. I didn't think it was bloom because you couldn't actually see the screen shrink and grow.

 

[Broodwich]

OK UPDATE! so i tried what you said tighe and the issue went away when i turned down the screen knob on the flyback. but also as you said, no one would want to play it like that.

I also tested MvC in my MK1 cab which has a nice k7000 in it also and i had no screen flashing/blooming issues at all.

SO, we know that turning down the screen pot on the flyback fixes the blooming issue but now causes the screen to be far to dark. what's the next step? Double Rainbow Guy wants to know "What does it MEAN!?"

 

[Tighe]

OK UPDATE! so i tried what you said tighe and the issue went away when i turned down the screen knob on the flyback. but also as you said, no one would want to play it like that.

I also tested MvC in my MK1 cab which has a nice k7000 in it also and i had no screen flashing/blooming issues at all.

SO, we know that turning down the screen pot on the flyback fixes the blooming issue but now causes the screen to be far to dark. what's the next step? Double Rainbow Guy wants to know "What does it MEAN!?"

See if you can turn the screen down and the brightness up to compensate. You should only have to turn the screen down a little to stop the flash.

 

[Broodwich]

it took turning it down a good amount to get it to stop flashing. how do you adjust the brightness? the only pots i have that adjust the brightness in any way are the BLK Level/contrast/screen pots. Contrast pot is set where it causes no bleed right now so i know that won't do it, and they blk lvl pot will make the screen look gray and washed out.

It's weird because i only notice this issue on MvC and KI. the other games don't seem to have this issue.

 

[Tighe]

it took turning it down a good amount to get it to stop flashing. how do you adjust the brightness? the only pots i have that adjust the brightness in any way are the BLK Level/contrast/screen pots. Contrast pot is set where it causes no bleed right now so i know that won't do it, and they blk lvl pot will make the screen look gray and washed out.

It's weird because i only notice this issue on MvC and KI. the other games don't seem to have this issue.

I have the same issue with rastan in my Marvel vs Capcom cabinet. Check my youtube channel therr is a video. It was just the board, it does the same thing in my mk cabinet. I just have to adjust the video for that board.

 

[Tighe]

Oh and all my k7000 monitors have remote boards with a brightness pot. Your k7000 doesn't have a remote board?

 

[Broodwich]

Oh and all my k7000 monitors have remote boards with a brightness pot. Your k7000 doesn't have a remote board?

It's not the jamma boards as i tested MvC in my MK1 cab and it works flawlessly. it's the Spiderman cab that's giving me the issues.

took a pic of my remote board, it's the same exact board in both cabs, no Brightness pot (this is a pic of the remote board in my spiderman cab)

 

[Tighe]

It's not the jamma boards as i tested MvC in my MK1 cab and it works flawlessly. it's the Spiderman cab that's giving me the issues.

took a pic of my remote board, it's the same exact board in both cabs, no Brightness pot (this is a pic of the remote board in my spiderman cab)

OK, you didn't answer that question earlier, so I thought yours didn't have one. BTW the left side of the connector is coming undone.

 

[Broodwich]

ah i must have missed the edit lol, lol i'm going to kick myself if that connector being loose is the reason (tho i could have done that just now when i was snapping a pic). What's with no brightness control on these remotes/chassis?

 

[Broodwich]

+1 to tighe, was a Vhold issue, pots fine it just came out of adjustment/was miss adjusted. Screen pot adjustment cleared up a couple other issues, everything looks sexy now

also rechecked that connector and it was fully socketed, just looked weird in that pic i guess.

in all honesty i kinda feel like a jerk taking 3 pages to figure out something as simple as a pot adjustment >.< atleast a learned a good amount from this whole ordeal, thanks to everyone who posted this is now RESOLVED!

 

[Tighe]

Hehe. Not saying that the cap can't fail. I just personally have never seen it. That's all

-Ian

I have seen it happen a ton of times, which makes repairs easy, most recently:

That one exploded on the bottom.

Here is one from one of my K7000 monitors:

 

[Tighe]

+1 to tighe, was a Vhold issue, pots fine it just came out of adjustment/was miss adjusted. Screen pot adjustment cleared up a couple other issues, everything looks sexy now

also rechecked that connector and it was fully socketed, just looked weird in that pic i guess.

in all honesty i kinda feel like a jerk taking 3 pages to figure out something as simple as a pot adjustment >.< atleast a learned a good amount from this whole ordeal, thanks to everyone who posted this is now RESOLVED!

I am glad you didn't have to do a capkit!

 

[Broodwich]

i never really payed much attention to caps on electronics untill a few years ago when one of my beloved DFI Lanparty PC Mother boards caps started to ooze all over themselves (lucky for me not on the board itself). Until then i knew nothing about them, and honestly the only bad ones i've seen have always been jiffy popped at the top or leaking in some way or shape (or showing signs of dried electrolytic liquid).

Since joining this place in Feb this has all changed and now i can't get enough things to repair in my hands lol. (i also kinda kick myself for paying 90+ shipped to have a motherboard recapped but live and learn )

 

[Tighe]

i never really payed much attention to caps on electronics untill a few years ago when one of my beloved DFI Lanparty PC Mother boards caps started to ooze all over themselves (lucky for me not on the board itself). Until then i knew nothing about them, and honestly the only bad ones i've seen have always been jiffy popped at the top or leaking in some way or shape (or showing signs of dried electrolytic liquid).

Since joining this place in Feb this has all changed and now i can't get enough things to repair in my hands lol. (i also kinda kick myself for paying 90+ shipped to have a motherboard recapped but live and learn )

If you ever have a TurboExpress you will find that the caps in that have to be the worst ones ever made.