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Based on his VAPS page, OP owns no VECTORS, so it makes sense he could not identify it. LOL
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My SC had both front corners blown out and I had to add them back in.
Common damage to these cabinets. This one likely was modified due to such damage.
My SC had both front bottom corners blown out and I had to add them back in.
Common damage to these cabinets. This one likely was modified due to such damage.
Anyway, I wonder what @DonPanetta and @parism have to say.
If you review the CP, the top angled metal piece and the front L-shaped piece is definitely off of AA or SC.
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I agree. Clearly a SC or AA game. You can see the white base peeking out from the black overcoat of paint.My SC had both front bottom corners blown out and I had to add them back in.
Common damage to these cabinets. This one likely was modified due to such damage.
Anyway, I wonder what @DonPanetta and @parism have to say.
If you review the CP, the top angled metal piece and the front L-shaped piece is definitely off of AA or SC (or similar Cine/RO game).
Given the player1/2 button locations, it likely was an AA.
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That is a nice description of a corner repair, similar to what I did here.There's more than one way to skin a cat but this really boils down to how elaborate you want to get with it. If i want to get a cabinet looking decent enough to pass the eye then i use this method:
I've even used this method to save a Sega Zaxxon woodgrain convert-a-game cabinet. The results weren't perfect as i cannibalized a piece of woodgrain panel from another rotted Zaxxon but you wouldn't be able to tell unless i told you where to look.
- Lay the cabinet on its side and diagonally mark where you will cut. You want to cut enough particle board out to expose the batons enough to screw into the batons. When it comes to these cinematronics cabinets they generally do not have batons spanning the entire length of the bottom and front so keep that in mind when cutting.
- Using a circular saw, cut an area out with the blade depth just enough the cut the damage out, careful to not cut anything else. If you don't feel you have a steady enough hand to do this then use a flat board as a cut guide. Stuff like this is where the portable battery powered circular saws with the smaller blades really come in handy.
- Then on my table saw i cut a general length of particle board longer than the length of my diagonal cut. For example, my diagonal is 6 inches then i will cut a piece of particle board 6.5 or 7 inches plus whatever the other area i need to span. I don't bother shaping wood just yet.
- Bevel both mating surfaces of your new wood and the freshly exposed area on your cabinet just a bit. You don't need to bevel a lot but saw cuts on particle board and mdf will always cause some material to erupt upwards .You will need to do this to get a smooth transition with the bondo later.
- Clean off any excess particle board or mdf fibers from your exposed batons, base and exposed front panels.
- Place your piece, apply glue to all of your mating surfaces, clamp your piece down and pin nail in place and make sure they countersink well i also put in at least two screws from the inside. Additionally you can pin nail your new piece onto your base and front panel for additional support. Allow to dry.
- If you are skilled enough with a circular saw you can free-hand cut the excess off or use a flush trim bit to cut the excess off.
- Shape your new piece, bondo the seam, sand and cut your t-molding slot.
Step 1 cut
Step 2 transplant
Step 3 shape
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