Oh sorry, missed that. (FYI, I personally believe it's better to just make a new post instead of editing an existing one to add questions, as people don't get email notifications about edits, so that's why I didn't see the anode question. Anyway, just a tip.)
If the anode isn't sitting tight, you can pull the anode wire further out of the back of the suction cup, to pull the anode further down into the cup, which should make it sit tighter, as sometimes the wire gets pulled forward, out the front of the cup, which creates the extra slop.
Also, the original 6100 anode clips have a round piece of metal on them, with a slot in it (which slips over the 2 prongs), which helps hold it tight, and covers the hole. The repro flybacks don't have this piece, and those ones fit tight (if you make sure the anode is pulled down far enough into the suction cup). But if you have an original fly, and it's missing the round piece, that might also partly be why it's looser. But either way if you make sure the anode is pulled down tight into the cup, and you get both prongs in the hole, it'll be snug, which is how you want it, as you don't want it accidentally popping out with 20,000 volts on it.
When I install anodes, I always fold the cup upwards and pinch it between two fingers, then put one prong in the hole, then use my HV probe to push the other one into the hole (or push it with my finger, always keeping the suction cup between my finger and the anode + hole). The hole can build up a charge after sitting for a while, if the anode is disconnected, and I've been zapped enough times such that I never touch a hole without a piece of rubber in between. (Good life advice, in general.)
