What’s wrong with my V2000/G05 B&W vector monitor?

I have an Asteroids Deluxe with a shrinking picture. I just noticed it happening about a week ago. Picture is fine when game is turned on. As it heats up the entire picture shrinks. By the time it hits max heat, it's about 2/3 the size it should be. It's a correct picture, no distortion. Just scaled down like it's on a 13".


Replace your HV diode. Also do a cap kit and reflow the pins on all connectors while you're at it.
 
Is there any difference between the tubes and the yoke of a G05-801, and G05-802?

I got nothing on the screen, spot killer is off as it should be, but.......

The yoke area is making a sorta quiet rattly/vibration sound, and smells a little like something burning when on.

Any ideas?

I switched the tube of a 802, into a 801 chassis and frame for my Lunar Lander.
 
Have the same monitor and similar issue

I was reading by through all of the comments here because I have the same monitor for an asteroids but not quite the same issue.

Before I got this one they had a dark monitor and someone looked at it before and removed the HV section said it couldn't be fixed and gave it back to them. The HV section was laying in the bottom and at first inspection the HV diode was removed and the wire from the transformer frayed and shoved in to what looks like an attempt to bypass having an HV diode.
I also noticed bolth 5amp fuses in at 100 and 101 are blown indicating a short. I was wondering if there is anything else I should check out for a short besides the HV transformer? Before plugging it in to have a trial and error session. I suppose it could be the transformer itself right? Which of course there is no replacement.

I have done the obvious:
Reflow solder
Replace caps
Replace HV diode
Replace chasis transistors
Check for any burnt traces all good.
Did not remove R100-101. They test good.
 
hv diode

Who sells replacement HV Diodes for the G05-802 HV board?
Also, is there a specific cap kit for the HV or just ad hoc parts? I have a kit for the deflection board on mine that I am about to install...just would like to have a kit for the HV side....

Thank you.
 
You can get diodes here. I've gotten several from this guy, and they work fine, as long as your boots and springs aren't burned and corroded (in which case you need to clean/replace them).

http://www.ebay.com/itm/142406183305


The HV cage only has 4 electrolytic caps. I'm sure you can get a cap kit from IanKellogg.com or arcadepartsandrepair.com, but you can also order them direct from Digikey. Here are parts with the Digikey part numbers:

C900, C901 1000uF/50v 493-1622-ND
C904 47uF/50V P13148-ND
C907 4.7uF/160V 493-11862-1-ND
 
I am recapping a g05-802.

Some cap listings show a 22uf cap at c504, others show 47uf. The schematic shows a 47uf. Does anyone suggesr I use a 22 instead of a 47?
 
The 19v2000 uses a 22uF for C504, which is probably where the confusion originated. The G05-802 is 47uF.

You could probably get away with 22 in a pinch, but I try to stay true to the schematics, so I'd use a 47.
 
The 19v2000 uses a 22uF for C504, which is probably where the confusion originated. The G05-802 is 47uF.

You could probably get away with 22 in a pinch, but I try to stay true to the schematics, so I'd use a 47.

That is what I chose to do. I figured the schematic was correct. Though someone did have a 22uf cap in there.

Thanks bud
 
I have a rather stupid question that doesn't deserve a whole thread.

V2000: Do I have to discharge the tube first in order to remove the deflection board?

Need to remove those stupid R100/R101 resistors but don't really feel like the hassle of discharging it. I also don't want to die.
 
I have a rather stupid question that doesn't deserve a whole thread.

V2000: Do I have to discharge the tube first in order to remove the deflection board?

Need to remove those stupid R100/R101 resistors but don't really feel like the hassle of discharging it. I also don't want to die.


Disclaimer: To be fully safe, you should discharge it. Just build a simple discharge tool with a screwdriver and wire. You don't need an HV probe, or bleeder resistors, as you may read elsewhere.

That said, you don't need to discharge if you're only going to remove the deflection board, and not touch the HV cage. I swap deflection boards all the time in my cabs for testing ones I've rebuilt, and never discharge the HV.

For general FYI, G05's and v2000's do self-discharge, but slowly. If you let it sit for a half hour or more, it will typically be mostly discharged, but even some small residual charge on the tube can be enough to zap you, IF you touch it. It won't kill you, but it'll bite. If you let the monitor sit, and then use the screwdriver, you won't get a pop, as most of the charge will be gone.

Also, you can remove the anode without touching the anode itself, if you grab the cap, and move it from side to side while gently pulling. It will pop out. I often don't discharge the b/w vector tubes I'm working on, as I remove the anode carefully (then reinsert it carefully), and they've usually been sitting a while before I touch them.

Also, when the anode has been removed, be aware that the tubes like to build up residual charge just from sitting. This can also bite you enough to feel it, but not enough to kill you (however it's often the accidents that can happen when you jerk back that can hurt you more). So it's a good idea to stick the screwdriver tool in the hole to discharge it again any time you may touch it. Or, just be very careful and don't touch the hole, and only handle the cap by the center rubber part, and you'll be ok.

But again, if you only want to remove the deflection board, you can leave the HV cage alone, as the HV concern is only on the anode wire, and not on any other wires in the monitor. So once it's unplugged, you can safely unplug everything from the deflection board and remove it.

However you really should re-cap your HV cage also, if you're doing the deflection board, and the HV has not been done.
 
I appreciate the detailed reply, andrewb. I already completely rebuilt the monitor a couple years ago, but didn't remove the R100/R101 resistors. I am now going back in to remove them and replace a transistor to see if it will fix my current brightness issue as detailed here: https://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=409352

(actually, you were the one who helped me there :))

I do have a fluke HV probe but I'd rather just pull the deflection board without the hassle of discharging it.
 
Cool. You may want to replace all 3 transistors I that area, as they all are likely pretty cooked. Just as a preventative measure. It's usually Q500 that is the culprit, but all 3 won't hurt. And bypassing and removing the resistors will ensure that it won't happen again.

Good luck. Let us know how it goes.
 
cross-hatch is not looking good on asteroids

Can anyone point me in the right general direction by looking at this cross-hatch test on asteroids? Just started happening all of a sudden.


Cheers,

Adam
 

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Can anyone point me in the right general direction by looking at this cross-hatch test on asteroids? Just started happening all of a sudden.


Cheers,

Adam


Bad Y-axis DAC, or one of the counter chips that feed it. I'd socket and replace the DAC first.
 
I am curious as to why the score (0000000) is not distorted in anyway


When the DACs go bad, they usually create those 'stretched' bands in one direction (corresponding to whichever DAC is the problem, in your case the y-axis).

They aren't outputting the correct signal evenly across the whole range, so you get sections where it looks ok, and others where it's jumping, so the image gets stretched in those areas, but looks ok in others.
 
Image shifted down

I am new to vintage arcade gaming and this forum. I've started building a collection and found a good deal on an Asteroids. I fixed up some of the cosmetic stuff (T Molding, Locks, Casters, buttons, Leaf Springs, Control Panel Overlay, coin slot lights), and everything works, but the image is shifted down on the screen. I also added the Asteroids Multi-game save kit (which adds Asteroids Deluxe and Lunar Lander) and the picture is the same in all three games. Here's what I've done so far to address the monitor issue (I have a WG 19V2000 monitor):

Re-capped monitor with kit from arcadeshop.com (monitor and HV board including frame transistors)
Replaced Big Blue power supply Cap
Adjusted X/Y pots on Asteroids PCB (this only makes image taller, but does not center it)
Adjusted rings on Yoke (this moved it up a little bit, but it's still off)
Messed with Y Lin Pot on monitor board, but this just made things look bowed up/down
Tried shimming Yoke to "point" it more up, but this didn't seem to work

What are the next steps towards addressing this?
 

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