What’s wrong with my V2000/G05 B&W vector monitor?

Curious: What to do if there is any dag missing?
If it's just missing in some small areas then leave it alone. If it's severely damaged/missing you can repaint it with colloidal graphite.

For $50 you can buy a bottle of Aquadag that should last you forever. Some people use slip-plate because it's cheaper. But $50 isnt that bad honestly.
 
Curious: What to do if there is any dag missing?

What others have said. I just bought a small bottle of aquadag on ebay. There used to be a guy who sold them for relatively cheap, but I don't think he's around anymore. (His seller name was semicro, and it was like $25 shipped. But this was 2016.) However I'm sure there are others.

The only thing I'll add is regarding the comment above about it lasting forever. The bottle I bought dried up eventually, even though I maybe used half of it on a couple of tubes. Maybe the jar wasn't sealed up well enough, or maybe they all do that eventually. But you'll want to make sure whatever you keep it in has an exceptionally good seal. (I think the jar I got it in had one of those cardboard seals inside the screw-in cap, and it wasn't quite airtight enough.)
 
Yeah, this isn't a deflection or power issue.

The way to test the HV diode after you've cleaned it is to run the game for about 3-5 minutes (or as long as it'll go), then quickly power down, discharge the HV (important), then feel the diode with the back of your finger. (I run the game with the probe on it, so it discharges as soon as I kill power, and I can watch the HV go to zero).

The diode should be cool to the touch. If it isn't, either the connections to it are bad, or the diode itself is bad. You should always try reusing the original diode, because 95% of the time they are still good, and there's no point in throwing a still-good $20 diode in the trash.

Sometimes the diode can be bad if it's original, but that's not likely if you replaced it with a new one. So in this case I'd suspect the connections.
What would you think if the blooming happened after about 2 hours of operation? Could there be something else on the HV board that could cause the HV to sag? (Asking for a friend lol.)
 
What would you think if the blooming happened after about 2 hours of operation? Could there be something else on the HV board that could cause the HV to sag? (Asking for a friend lol.)

Could still be the diode or connections to it, in theory.

But it could be other things. The cage-mounted transistors do go bad on these, though it's rare. Those should be removed and the legs cleaned as well. The HV pots can go bad. The small TO-92 transistors can go bad. But these are all less likely than the diode.

I'd also look for hairline cracks on any PCB traces and joints. Something could be cracked, and it's making a connection when the cage is cold, but breaking when it heats up and expands.

This is another reason why you want an HV probe, to see how much it's dropping.
 
Curious: What to do if there is any dag missing?
Believe it or not a tube with 100% of the outer dag missing will still display a near perfect picture. The compression strap it's self and surrounding air acts as an outer plate. So unless 90% or more dag is missing you don't need to worry about it. One reason for the extra dag besides preventing a floating plate is to help control dielectric absorption.
 
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look I can do deflection things all day long. the HV cage is one art I haven't mastered yet. can this be saved? it was a working monitor with pretty significant blooming so I would venture if something could be done about the boot maybe it'll be good. some people say to solder the diode, some don't. proper course of action welcome. thank you

it's a 15" V2000
 
It's definitely a thing now that those boots are deteriorating. Sometimes you can clean them up pretty good. I've seen people fix them with silicone which you hate to do, but could be a last course of action if you can't reuse that boot...
 
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look I can do deflection things all day long. the HV cage is one art I haven't mastered yet. can this be saved? it was a working monitor with pretty significant blooming so I would venture if something could be done about the boot maybe it'll be good. some people say to solder the diode, some don't. proper course of action welcome. thank you

it's a 15" V2000
1. Rubbing alcohol remove all that grease.
2. If there are leads left solder
3. Cover in 2-3 layers of heat shrink tubing on each end. Leave the center exposed. Never worry about hv diodes again.
If you just solder without heat shrink it will just break off again and possibly destroy the diode in the process.
 
1. Rubbing alcohol remove all that grease.
2. If there are leads left solder
3. Cover in 2-3 layers of heat shrink tubing on each end. Leave the center exposed. Never worry about hv diodes again.
If you just solder without heat shrink it will just break off again and possibly destroy the diode in the process.
the little plastic standoff gimmick is broken off. if I was to guess I would say that's how it flopped about and it arced until it melted.

it's kind of like buying a used car.
 
the little plastic standoff gimmick is broken off. if I was to guess I would say that's how it flopped about and it arced until it melted.

it's kind of like buying a used car.

- Save the boot and spring on the anode side. That one doesn't look burned.
- Save the spring on the flyback side, if it's there.
- Soak the springs in vinegar overnight and clean them (or ideally tumble them).
- Carefully cut the remains of the burned boot off, preserving the cup that is inside the boot, attached to the wire. (Do not cut the wire).
- Clean everything out of both cups/boots with Goof Off and Qtips. Lots of them.
- Get some silicone hose (6mm 1/4" ID 8mm OD) to replace the boot on the flyback side.
- Solder the springs to the new diode. See post here.
- Reassemble everything.
- Take two zip ties and zip tie the anode wire to the black plastic ferrule where the wire enters the cage. This can take the place of the broken standoff, to hold the wire. And it will mechanically stabilize the wire, so moving it won't translate as much force to the diode.
 
- Save the boot and spring on the anode side. That one doesn't look burned.
- Save the spring on the flyback side, if it's there.
- Soak the springs in vinegar overnight and clean them (or ideally tumble them).
- Carefully cut the remains of the burned boot off, preserving the cup that is inside the boot, attached to the wire. (Do not cut the wire).
- Clean everything out of both cups/boots with Goof Off and Qtips. Lots of them.
- Get some silicone hose (6mm 1/4" ID 8mm OD) to replace the boot on the flyback side.
- Solder the springs to the new diode. See post here.
- Reassemble everything.
- Take two zip ties and zip tie the anode wire to the black plastic ferrule where the wire enters the cage. This can take the place of the broken standoff, to hold the wire. And it will mechanically stabilize the wire, so moving it won't translate as much force to the diode.
I borrowed another HV cage, monitor is more stable but the picture height increases more and more the longer it's on. we got one of those B&K probes you recommended, my only issue with it is it's just an earth ground clip and it keeps popping off the earth ground stud on the brick. lol unfortunately now I have to go on vidya game hiatus for a few days and back to pinball. Battlezone is sleeping peacefully in the back for now. thank you for the instructions though I'll give it a look when I have time.
 
I borrowed another HV cage, monitor is more stable but the picture height increases more and more the longer it's on. we got one of those B&K probes you recommended, my only issue with it is it's just an earth ground clip and it keeps popping off the earth ground stud on the brick. lol unfortunately now I have to go on vidya game hiatus for a few days and back to pinball. Battlezone is sleeping peacefully in the back for now. thank you for the instructions though I'll give it a look when I have time.


Only the height is increasing? Or height and width?

When using HV probes, I clip them to the monitor frame. I also replace the tiny ground clip with a beefier one.
 
Only the height is increasing? Or height and width?

When using HV probes, I clip them to the monitor frame. I also replace the tiny ground clip with a beefier one.
it's kind of a giant clip that I recall

and I think only height. I work on a pretty wide variety of games week in and out, it's gotten to where it all blurs together now. I can see later.
 
If it's just the height, it's not going to be HV. HV would affect both axes.

I would DeOxit the pots on the deflection board first. If the issue goes away then comes back, replace them.
 
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