What’s wrong with my V2000/G05 B&W vector monitor?

Tube has worked for extended testing with a good deflection board. Voltage is 101.0 on one side and 101.6 on the other.
 
Tube has worked for extended testing with a good deflection board. Voltage is 101.0 on one side and 101.6 on the other.

Ok, so if that's the case we know the issue is isolated to the deflection board.

The voltage difference across the diode is going to be the same (0.6V) regardless of how much current is passing through it, so that's expected. 101V is higher than 95, however I don't think enough to matter, as the values in the schematics are approximate, and +/-5% (at least) is standard as far as tolerances go in these devices. That voltage comes from the HV cage, which powers the Z section. 6V shouldn't make a difference.

What about the 4.5V on Q506?

Also, I'd study the board carefully in that area, and look for solder splashes/bridges, or other shorts that might have happened when you capped it. Similarly for the header pin joints, it's easy to bridge those.

If you have another deflection board, you could put them down side by side unpowered on the bench, and start comparing resistance readings. Like I'd test the low side of that diode to ground, and compare the resistance to a good board.

Also, did you change any other transistors on the board? (i.e., any of the smaller TO-92 ones).
 
Getting a voltage read on Q504 is somewhat impossible. I can't run the board off the chassis to test the solder side, and the legs of Q504 are flush to the board. I clipped to the leg of C505 and got zilch, but I can't tell if that is due to some capacitor insulation or not. So I just swapped Q504 with the good board. Still getting the same result, fade to black over time. I haven't changed any transistors on the board, just the ones in the HV cage. I've looked all over the board for solder issues and resoldered ones that looked suspicious. Keep in mind that this problem started with a board that I had never recapped. I recapped it, and the HV, and it still has the same problem.
 
When you are losing the image, do you still have neck glow?

If you're getting 0V on the Q504 side of C505, pull it (or test continuity across it) and make sure it isn't shorted. And/or measure the resistance from that high side of C505 to ground, and make sure it isn't shorted (i.e., it shouldn't have a low resistance).
 
When you are losing the image, do you still have neck glow?

If you're getting 0V on the Q504 side of C505, pull it (or test continuity across it) and make sure it isn't shorted. And/or measure the resistance from that high side of C505 to ground, and make sure it isn't shorted (i.e., it shouldn't have a low resistance).

No neck glow after the picture fades!
C505 isn't shorted.
 
No neck glow after the picture fades!

Ok. Note that you have to be sure with this, as the glow can be hard to see sometimes. But if you're seeing the glow and then seeing it disappear, you've got a break in the heater circuit somewhere.

It's powered by the same 6.3V AC that powers the coin door lights (in parallel with them). But it enters the deflection board via two wires, exits via P500, then goes to the tube and back. You could have a cracked trace somewhere on the board, or the pins might be making intermittent contact with the P500 connector.

Another thing to check on all of these is to make sure the pins on all of the headers are sticking all the way through the board. On many of these, the pins sit higher in the header housings, so all you see is a 'blob' on the solder side of the deflection board, for each joint. This is a common problem, because the joints loosen up underneath those blobs.

I wish I had a picture to show this. It's common enough that it deserves its own thread. But when I get boards like this, I pull all of the headers, and then take a pliers and pull the pins down, so they sit lower in the headers, then resolder them. Instead of blobs, you should see 'cones' for each pin, where each pin sticks far enough through the board to allow the solder to grab it solidly.

Also, another point that can cause breaks is the tube socket. The one on my AD is loose, and had the same problem of fading after a few minutes. I just had to clean and reseat the socket.


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What a goose chase! I polished up the P500 pins, paying special attention to 9 & 10. Put some deox into the connector sockets. Three hours down and holding!
 
Any suggestions for what can replace the springs for the HV diode in G05-802 and V2000? I opened one up yesterday to find one spring completely carbonized and gone. I tried replacing the spring with one from a pen and I found that it didn't work all that well. I suspect the gauge of the wire used was too small. Is there a spec copper spring that would work?
 
Any suggestions for what can replace the springs for the HV diode in G05-802 and V2000? I opened one up yesterday to find one spring completely carbonized and gone. I tried replacing the spring with one from a pen and I found that it didn't work all that well. I suspect the gauge of the wire used was too small. Is there a spec copper spring that would work?
You can try the assorted spring box at a hardware store. You may find one that will work.

For the crumbling boots, HV heat shrink if they fell apart when you took this apart.

This is the smallest spring I can find on Granger.


It has a small diameter of 0.125 / 1/8", and a large diameter of .36" or between 1/4" and 1/3" (1/2.8), wire diameter 0.029", stainless steel. I haven't pulled one apart yet to know what the OD of the spring is, but you are looking for a small conical spring.

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Any suggestions for what can replace the springs for the HV diode in G05-802 and V2000? I opened one up yesterday to find one spring completely carbonized and gone. I tried replacing the spring with one from a pen and I found that it didn't work all that well. I suspect the gauge of the wire used was too small. Is there a spec copper spring that would work?

User @JollyRodger bought some of these and gave me a few to try in a cage he sent me a while back, and they work ok.

Not sure what the minimum order was, or if he has extras to share, or if you'd have to buy a bunch yourself.

 
Hi, new collector. Not sure if this is the right thread to post this but it kind of turned into a mega-thread for these monitors. This probably got answered already but I seem to have a monitor problem beyond the posted FAQ. I had a working asteroids cocktail but the monitor seems like it gave up working after bringing it home and giving the machine some TLC. I did put the machine on it's side to clean the underside which may have caused the issue (Bad idea I know). Noticed I had a problem when all I got was a bouncing line after turning it on again. After replacing a blown F101, shorting R100/101 per Atari's repair bulletin, recapping both deflection and HV board, replacing monitor transistors, AND reflowing the board pin connectors, I am down to the monitor giving neck glow/vector chatter but the spot killer is lit and killing the picture. When I turn the brightness up all the way, I do get an image but the right half is crushed, meaning something on the X circuit could be bad? No fuses blow and the chassis transistors all seem fine. At a loss here. I would appreciate any help. Monitor is a G05-805.
 
Is the +90V on pin 1 on P500 on a G05-802 pushing +90V DC against the chassis ground, when there is no spot killer? I have a deflection board that causes the HV to not do HV. I know the HV cage is good because I've tested it against a good deflection board. I've pulled and tested just about every transistor on the bad deflection board and I'm not finding anything. Fuses are all good, pins have been cleaned, connectors deoxed, and solder reflowed. But I'm getting zero on P500 pin 1. Also replaced D608 and D708 because D608 was suspect, along with the electrolytic caps. Still no joy.

Also I found some really good spring replacements at Ace Hardware in the Hillman nuts & bolts section. They also have selection of fuses that I noticed for the first time.
 
Is the +90V on pin 1 on P500 on a G05-802 pushing +90V DC against the chassis ground, when there is no spot killer? I have a deflection board that causes the HV to not do HV. I know the HV cage is good because I've tested it against a good deflection board. I've pulled and tested just about every transistor on the bad deflection board and I'm not finding anything. Fuses are all good, pins have been cleaned, connectors deoxed, and solder reflowed. But I'm getting zero on P500 pin 1. Also replaced D608 and D708 because D608 was suspect, along with the electrolytic caps. Still no joy.

Also I found some really good spring replacements at Ace Hardware in the Hillman nuts & bolts section. They also have selection of fuses that I noticed for the first time.


This is a different cage from the other one we solved earlier?

Sounds like something on the deflection board is shorting that 90V out. The 90V is generated by the HV cage, and is sent back to the deflection board.

The HV should generate HV regardless of whether the spot killer is on or off.
 
New board. Other one was a V2000. I was measuring pin 1 with P500 disconnected, so that answers that. I thought it sourced from the deflection board. What are the voltages on the pins going to the HV, from the deflection board? The heater pins are showing 6VAC.
 
New board. Other one was a V2000. I was measuring pin 1 with P500 disconnected, so that answers that. I thought it sourced from the deflection board. What are the voltages on the pins going to the HV, from the deflection board? The heater pins are showing 6VAC.


See the schematics. Natively all the deflection board sends to the HV is +40V. The HV generates the +90V, which gets sent back to the deflection board, and the deflection board modifies those and sends them to the tube.

The heater pins also send 6V AC to the tube, but that isn't generated by the deflection board itself. The heater voltage comes from the power brick, and basically just passes through the deflection board, to the tube.

I wonder if this one is like your other one, where something is backwards or wrong in the Z circuit, which is killing the 90V, and taking the HV down with it. Either that or maybe there's a cracked trace or other bad connection on the 40V to the HV cage, where it's measuring ok with no load, but when you put the HV on it, it's tanking the input voltage to the HV.
 
just picked up a rough Battlezone with a G05-802. i wanted to test the monitor in my Asteroids which i know good; Asteroids has a 19V2000 but FAQ says they are plug compatible.

reflowed the pins on the deflection board before i plugged it in.

initial power up: tube makes sound similar almost-boiling water; this seems like a bad sign. external arcing at 400v (grey) wire on neck connector which connects to pin 3 on HV board.

pulled and reseated neck connector; reflowed pins on HV board. cleaned HV diode, boots, and anode cap with isopropyl alcohol and some q-tips.

second power up: tube still makes almost-boiling noise. no more external arcing but now internal arcing in the tube neck.

FAQ doesn't say anything about these problems, but i'm kind of assuming that unfortunately the tube is toast. does that seem likely?
 
just picked up a rough Battlezone with a G05-802. i wanted to test the monitor in my Asteroids which i know good; Asteroids has a 19V2000 but FAQ says they are plug compatible.

reflowed the pins on the deflection board before i plugged it in.

initial power up: tube makes sound similar almost-boiling water; this seems like a bad sign. external arcing at 400v (grey) wire on neck connector which connects to pin 3 on HV board.

pulled and reseated neck connector; reflowed pins on HV board. cleaned HV diode, boots, and anode cap with isopropyl alcohol and some q-tips.

second power up: tube still makes almost-boiling noise. no more external arcing but now internal arcing in the tube neck.

FAQ doesn't say anything about these problems, but i'm kind of assuming that unfortunately the tube is toast. does that seem likely?

Make sure the dag spring (or strap, whichever it has) is clean and making solid contact with the tube and frame.

Also, make sure there aren't large pieces of dag flaked off or missing.

I'm not an expert on tube failures, but internal arcing usually suggests a bad tube.

Technically you have another good tube in your other monitor, which you could swap as a test. Tube swapping isn't too hard in this case, if you have both monitors removed, as you can remove the tube + yoke from the frame by just removing the 4 corner bolts. Then the tube will separate and leave the frame and boards intact. (And you can keep the yoke with the tube, that's swappable between a v2000 and 802. So no need to remove it from the neck.)
 
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