What’s wrong with my V2000/G05 B&W vector monitor?

My Asteroids cabaret monitor just started to act up. Seems the width size as shrunk. I've never touch it so I'm going to pull it and do a basic cleaning and rebuild. I think I picked up a HV diode but what else should I order in anticipation of pulling the monitor. Going to read the 51 page F&Q to get familiar with these things. Doing my best to read the 13 page thread here but I was hoping someone had a quick parts list to help get me started.
 
My Asteroids cabaret monitor just started to act up. Seems the width size as shrunk. I've never touch it so I'm going to pull it and do a basic cleaning and rebuild. I think I picked up a HV diode but what else should I order in anticipation of pulling the monitor. Going to read the 51 page F&Q to get familiar with these things. Doing my best to read the 13 page thread here but I was hoping someone had a quick parts list to help get me started.


If it's shrunk in both dimensions, the HV diode is likely just dirty (which is a common issue on all of these). You don't need to replace the diode and throw a still-good $20 diode in the trash. Save the diode you bought for a machine that actually needs it, as 90% of the diodes in these are still good, they're just dirty. But you DO need to clean out the old grease from the boots, clean the springs, and solder the springs to the diode, which you'd still need to do regardless, even if the diode was bad. I have a detailed post on it here:


Other than that, just do a cap kit (as there's one cap in the HV that goes bad). The deflection board caps don't usually go bad, but you might as well replace them if you're going in there anyway. Then just reflow the headers, DeOxit all header and Molex pins, and you should be all set.
 
Sounds good.

Appreciate the I info
If it's shrunk in both dimensions, the HV diode is likely just dirty (which is a common issue on all of these). You don't need to replace the diode and throw a still-good $20 diode in the trash. Save the diode you bought for a machine that actually needs it, as 90% of the diodes in these are still good, they're just dirty. But you DO need to clean out the old grease from the boots, clean the springs, and solder the springs to the diode, which you'd still need to do regardless, even if the diode was bad. I have a detailed post on it here:


Other than that, just do a cap kit (as there's one cap in the HV that goes bad). The deflection board caps don't usually go bad, but you might as well replace them if you're going in there anyway. Then just reflow the headers, DeOxit all header and Molex pins, and you should be all set.
 
Are the pinouts for the 12-pin connector for the game the same on all the 19V2000, G05-802, and G05-805 monitors? There was a note in the FAQ that seems to infer that at least the issue 4 boards may be different. Not sure if the pin #'s refer to the markings on the PCB or the connector. If it is just the board #'s then the connector pinouts could be the same between moniors. Can anyone confirm this? I'd like to check if needed before plugging one of these monitors in for testing.

Also, I've noticed that some of the deflection boards for the G05 monitors seem to be keyed differently for the connector that goes to the HV cage. Some have the key on pin 4 and others on pin 5. Is there anything special about those and is there a better standard to get them keyed the same? Or, is the keying different between the 15" and 19" G05 monitors? I know the boards can be used with either monitor but some resistors may need to be changed and the ones for the smaller monitor have an angled cut on one of the heat sinks.
 
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I'm recapping the 19v2000 in my Asteroids. It works fine, but "breathes" in and out a bit (expands/contracts), and the lines jump once in a while. First time working on a vector monitor. I've read the B&W Vector FAQ, and this entire thread.

I recapped the deflection board (including the filter caps), removed the R100 and R101 resistors and replaced with 18AWG wire. Put it back in to test and F100 blew (but not F101). I triple-checked everything including the bridge rectifier, which tested fine. I replaced F100 (which looked original) with a 5A 250 slo-blow fuse, and the game played fine (with minor breathing). Then I powered off and back on, and F600 blew (also looked original). I checked everything again, replaced F600 with a new 2A fast-blow fuse, and it works fine. I'm going to replace the rest of the fuses and re-flow the solder on the connectors.

I pulled the HV board and recapped it (and reflowed the connectors). My question is on the HV diode. I'm planning on cleaning the springs and following @andrewb's Myth Busting advice here. Now: my dumb question: do you just pull it apart? I gave it a gentle tug and there was no movement. The B&W FAQ says to use a hair dryer to soften the housing. I'm hesitant to break something.

PXL_20220422_212155264.jpg
 
I pulled the HV board and recapped it (and reflowed the connectors). My question is on the HV diode. I'm planning on cleaning the springs and following @andrewb's Myth Busting advice here. Now: my dumb question: do you just pull it apart? I gave it a gentle tug and there was no movement. The B&W FAQ says to use a hair dryer to soften the housing. I'm hesitant to break something.
I hit it with a hair dryer, and the diode pulled out fairly easy. It just pulls out of the two cups, as I suspected.

There are springs in both of the cups that also remove with some gentle pressure. The spring on the board side was rusted, and both are soaking in vinegar now. I will solder the diode leads to the springs (as suggested) before reassembling.

I almost skipped doing this (for fear of breaking something), but I'm glad I kept at it.
 
If you are soldering just get rid of the spring and metal cup. Just solder directly to the wire lead then slide the rubber caps back over the soldered connection.
 
If you are soldering just get rid of the spring and metal cup. Just solder directly to the wire lead then slide the rubber caps back over the soldered connection.

You really always want to try to keep the springs and cups on these. v2000's especially. If you try soldering the wires directly to the diode, what happens with v2000's is the anode wire will usually end up breaking the leads off of the diode, after you solder it. That's because the anode wires on v2000's are VERY stiff. And when you bend and move the anode wire to install the cage, all of that movement gets translated to the solder joint on the diode, which will weaken the lead (causing it to get resistive), and/or just snap it off at the diode, and you'll be out a $20 diode. That's partly why the springs are there, to act as strain relief between the wire and diode.

It's easier to get away with direct soldering on G05-802's, as the anode wire they used on those is super soft and flexible. However you still can have the same problem. So it's really best to save the original springs, vinegar soak and tumble them to remove all rust, and clean out all rust and goop from the boots and cups with Goof Off and many Qtips. Then file the ends of the springs bare with a fine file (to expose bare metal, to let the solder stick to them), file the diode leads as well, and then solder the springs to the diode (I use silver solder), and reassemble everything using the original boots, even if they're burned a little.

Getting the solder to stick to the springs is tricky, as solder doesn't like to stick to steel that easily. But that's why filing everything bare and making sure everything is clean is critical. Else the solder will roll right off the spring if it still has a layer of oxidation or dirt on it. And if you do manage to ball some on there, you'll have a cold solder joint. The solder needs to actually wet to the spring (and the lead), or else the connection will be resistive, which will cause it to burn up when you start running it again.

It's a lot of work, and requires being very meticulous with every step. But it's the best way to fix these properly, so they don't burn up again in a few days or weeks. I've done a couple hundred of these this way for folks, and have had very few issues in the field with any of them.
 
I shit rig it. Harvest anode wires and cups from junk TVs. Cut off the boots of two junk anode cups and use them as the new diode boots. Solder the diode to the anode wire from the HV transformer and the other end to a harvested, pliable CRT anode wire/cup. The boots are stiff enough to keep anything from bending. Just be careful slipping them on so you don't break the rigid solder connection.
 
V2000 with super loose linearity pots.

Originals are 1.5K sounds like some folks use 1k pots as replacements, would it be better to go with 2k pots for more range adjustment? Or are the 1k fine?
 
V2000 with super loose linearity pots.

Originals are 1.5K sounds like some folks use 1k pots as replacements, would it be better to go with 2k pots for more range adjustment? Or are the 1k fine?

I've been using 2k's for years with no problem. I used to not replace them, but I found them to have a high enough failure rate that I always replace them now. (They aren't all bad, but the ones that aren't are often dirty, and can cause horizontal or vertical wiggling in the picture, even after cleaning, after the DeOxit dries up.)

I have been using these, though Digikey says they're NLA. I'm sure there are equivalents out there. You can use sealed 3316 types as well, i.e., the same ones as for the vector linearity pots, if you solder extensions to the legs. I used to do that, before I found these.

 
I've been using 2k's for years with no problem. I used to not replace them, but I found them to have a high enough failure rate that I always replace them now. (They aren't all bad, but the ones that aren't are often dirty, and can cause horizontal or vertical wiggling in the picture, even after cleaning, after the DeOxit dries up.)

I have been using these, though Digikey says they're NLA. I'm sure there are equivalents out there. You can use sealed 3316 types as well, i.e., the same ones as for the vector linearity pots, if you solder extensions to the legs. I used to do that, before I found these.


Thanks,

I was getting some wiggling and collapsing in the image and the super loose pot seemed to effect it when touched. I installed some 1k pots and it seemed to fix it but when I installed the monitor back in BZ it did it again, I removed it and set it on the floor and it was fine. I then picked it up and tilted it while powered on and it did it again.

I haven't replace the frame transistors yet but its my next step.

All the headers were reflowed.

 
Thanks,

I was getting some wiggling and collapsing in the image and the super loose pot seemed to effect it when touched. I installed some 1k pots and it seemed to fix it but when I installed the monitor back in BZ it did it again, I removed it and set it on the floor and it was fine. I then picked it up and tilted it while powered on and it did it again.

I haven't replace the frame transistors yet but its my next step.

All the headers were reflowed.



Yeah, sounds like a loose or dirty connection somewhere. I'd check the harness connections/pins as well. Poking around with a plastic monitor tool might help you find it. But I wouldn't start replacing things until you figure it out. It could be dirty frame transistor legs, a dirty header pin on the deflection board, cracked joint somewhere on the deflection board, loose or bent harness pin (in the main harness or the header connectors), etc.

You can pull the frame transistors, clean the legs, and tighten up the socket contacts by pinching them with a pliers, so they grab the legs better. There's no need to replace the sockets. You can keep the original transistors too, if they're original. I just replace the micas with silpads.
 
Yeah, sounds like a loose or dirty connection somewhere. I'd check the harness connections/pins as well. Poking around with a plastic monitor tool might help you find it. But I wouldn't start replacing things until you figure it out. It could be dirty frame transistor legs, a dirty header pin on the deflection board, cracked joint somewhere on the deflection board, loose or bent harness pin (in the main harness or the header connectors), etc.

You can pull the frame transistors, clean the legs, and tighten up the socket contacts by pinching them with a pliers, so they grab the legs better. There's no need to replace the sockets. You can keep the original transistors too, if they're original. I just replace the micas with silpads.

Yeah I didn't want to just shotgun the frame transistors when I did the cap kit.

I checked the wiring on the frame transistors and it all looks good.

I just tested the monitor on asteroids and there was no wiggling collapse. Looking like a board issue.
 
Looking for some troubleshooting help. I have a G05-805 in an asteroids cocktail table that was given to me from a relative. He has no tech skills, so I know he didnt tamper with it. Said it was working and then stopped a couple years ago. When I turn it on I hear chatter, no spot kill, have glow in the tube. Game is playable blind, nothing on the screen. Barely feel the static when arm hairs are close to the screen. Is this all pointing to the HV module?
 
Looking for some troubleshooting help. I have a G05-805 in an asteroids cocktail table that was given to me from a relative. He has no tech skills, so I know he didnt tamper with it. Said it was working and then stopped a couple years ago. When I turn it on I hear chatter, no spot kill, have glow in the tube. Game is playable blind, nothing on the screen. Barely feel the static when arm hairs are close to the screen. Is this all pointing to the HV module?
You should be able to wipe the palm of your hand across the face of the tube when it's first turned on (after sitting for a good while) and hear it crackling as you move. If you don't get that, you have no HV.
 
Not getting any of that. What should be done first? Seems like voltages on P900 were acceptable. Should I recap and replace diode? Or is there more troubleshooting that can be done to narrow down the fault?
 
Not getting any of that. What should be done first? Seems like voltages on P900 were acceptable. Should I recap and replace diode? Or is there more troubleshooting that can be done to narrow down the fault?
From your description, I'm not convinced you're lacking HV… yet. If you leave the game off for an hour, then power it up, is there static on the screen, yes or no? Using the palm of your hand, you should be able to hear it crackle when you put it near the screen. If there isn't any crackle, you have no HV.

Figure out your symptoms before you go trying to fix ones that may not be the problem.
 
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