What’s wrong with my V2000/G05 B&W vector monitor?

i had thought the same about the large can cap's... inrush..
as to up-grades was more of the smaller cap's.. as with the 6100 need change a few 0.47uf to 1uf ..

Those are more just out of convenience, as for 1uF you can use small electrolytics (as opposed to the 0.47 tantalums.)

The G05-802 uses 2.2uF's for the spot killer circuit. It might change how fast the spot killer turns on, but that isn't really critical.

But yes, for the filter caps, you don't want to go bigger. I've even used 4700's in place of 6800's in a pinch on v2000 deflection boards (as 6100's and Amplifones use 4700's, and they're all basically similar designs.)
 
Received a G05-801 the other day, gave it a good clean
power it up with my Asteroids board (known good)
got No picture , but have heater glow :)
changed out the EHT , & have life .. BUT..
picture is only 3/4 size ,
Too bright & no brightness adjustment ,
Out of focus & can not adjust that either ,
i read high voltage diode can be a problem ?
any thought's ?
Also read the "Z" amplifier can be a problem ... is it possible i have a bad Q504 MPUS03 ?

Deflection transistors are 2N5878 (Hfe 20) not the factory 2N3716 (Hfe 50) & the other is 10883858 .. yep.. this not a known number ..
Thinking i should replace these with the factory 2N3716 & 2N3792

will tackle the bad EHT another day..
 
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Received a G05-801 the other day, gave it a good clean
power it up with my Asteroids board (known good)
got No picture , but have heater glow :)
changed out the EHT , & have life .. BUT..
picture is only 3/4 size ,
Too bright & no brightness adjustment ,
Out of focus & can not adjust that either ,
i read high voltage diode can be a problem ?
any thought's ?
Also read the "Z" amplifier can be a problem ... is it possible i have a bad Q504 MPUS03 ?

Deflection transistors are 2N5878 (Hfe 20) not the factory 2N3716 (Hfe 50) & the other is 10883858 .. yep.. this not a known number ..
Thinking i should replace these with the factory 2N3716 & 2N3792

will tackle the bad EHT another day..

If they look original, they did use alternate frame transistors in these. I've seen them. I wouldn't worry too much about those.

Picture too small and no focus is an HV problem. (Though you may have an alternate Z issue as well, but fix the HV first.)

There is no HV diode on these, like and 802 or v2000. Thay have a voltage doubler circuit, which is potted, so you can't repair it. If it's bad, you have to make a new one by hand, as there is no replacement sold. Usually they work 100%, or 0% though, so I'm not convinced that's your issue. Recap the HV first, and replace the one 1-ohm resistor next to the flyback that usually gets burned up.

Also, make sure your PS voltages are good. +25 and -25.
 
That probably isn't your problem, but is just one thing that should be done as part of the recap.

They're fried on most of these, when the cap next to them dries up.
i checked my other EHT and found a wire link 0 ohm .. looked factory... not happy with that..
will replace both with new 1 ohm resistors..
going to unplug the transistors on the side & test..
 
Yes, there are revisions that have the wire link instead. I've seen those too.

I don't know which one is better (or which came first), a resistor that will burn, or just a straight piece of wire, but they both work fine. I've seen plenty of toasted cages, but none that couldn't be rebuilt. Once you get some new high-temp caps in there, it'll likely be moot, as it'll be a long time before they dry out again.
 
Yes, there are revisions that have the wire link instead. I've seen those too.

I don't know which one is better (or which came first), a resistor that will burn, or just a straight piece of wire, but they both work fine. I've seen plenty of toasted cages, but none that couldn't be rebuilt. Once you get some new high-temp caps in there, it'll likely be moot, as it'll be a long time before they dry out again.
i did the cap's before i powered this un-known monitor up.. just to be sure i was starting on a good footing..
But when i removed the Deflection board (early today) i found some one had run a dead short bridge across the "contrast" pot .. yep OMG
 
i did the cap's before i powered this un-known monitor up.. just to be sure i was starting on a good footing..
But when i removed the Deflection board (early today) i found some one had run a dead short bridge across the "contrast" pot .. yep OMG

Depending on how they did it, that might not too much of a problem. It's the brightness pot that controls if you see the retrace lines between objects, so that's the more important one. The contrast just controls the overall thickness of the lines, and I usually leave it up all the way anyway. So if you were getting a picture, I'm not sure if that's going to solve your other issues. But you can certainly fix it and try. But if it was shorted across the entire carbon track (effectively taking that entire resistance out of the circuit), maybe that could affect the cathode to grid voltage, which could screw up the image, maybe? Hard to say.

Anyway, let us know what happens when you fix it. (And try changing only one thing at a time, so if you do see a change, we know what did it.)
 
But you can certainly fix it and try. But if it was shorted across the entire carbon track (effectively taking that entire resistance out of the circuit), maybe that could affect the cathode to grid voltage, which could screw up the image, maybe? Hard to say.

Anyway, let us know what happens when you fix it. (And try changing only one thing at a time, so if you do see a change, we know what did it.)
Ok.. this dodgy short / wire was straight across the the carbon trace.. taking it to be just a short between the wiper/one side & then the other.. so was a zero ohm .. no adjustment..

Yes.. best only change one component at each time..
 
They're all great when they're properly restored, and any one can give you good performance. Any differences IMO are subtle, but I do have my opinions from having seen and repaired hundreds of them.

801's are the best designed b/w vectors, IMO. They're somewhat overengineered, but that was ok for their first attempt. Separate power board, separate heatsink for the bottlecap transistors, slightly more sophisticated circuits for various things, and a thicker metal frame. More parts, more cost, better made. They're tanks. And they tend not to burn up when they do fail (i.e., they fail more elegantly), whereas 802/v2000's will often torch strings of stuff on the deflection boards when they go.

Atari worked with Electrohome and WG to design all of their monitors, and they tweaked the designs with each successive model (801, 802, v2000). And they cheapened the designs at each stage to cut costs. They all get the job done, but both G05's are better constructed than the v2000 IMO. (801 > 802 > v2000).

And you can build a harness adapter to run an 801 in an 802/v2000 cab, and the difference of power supply is only a few volts, so it isn't an issue (which I've also tested ). However there are some issues with how the ground paths are run, that can cause waviness in some cases. (We had a separate thread about this a few months ago, I don't have a link handy). But you can make them work. But you're better off putting an 801 in an 801 cab, if it had one originally. V2000 and 802 can be swapped freely with each other (in cabs that came with either) as they're more functionally equivalent.

For 802 vs v2000, I'd take the 802. The deflection boards are much better manufactured, and the heatsinks on them are bolted on, not soldered on like the v2000. I've seen plenty of v2000's with the heatsinks (and transistor connections) loose and broken, just from being bent over. Whereas the 802 ones you can't break because they're wider, and they're attached with two screws, not solder tabs. I pad v2000 deflection boards more when I ship them, as the heatsinks make them more fragile. 802's are much more mechanically robust.

I also like the 802 HV cages better than the v2000's. The 802's used more supple wire for the anode, and the diode is mechanically isolated better from the anode wire, so wiggling the wire won't loosen up the diode, the way they do more easily on v2000's. The v2000 HV's are much more annoying to repair because of this, as the anode wires they used are very stiff, and they go right into the diode, so twisting the wire puts stress on the diode connections.

Again, the differences are subtle (and bordering on nitpicky), and any of them properly repaired will give a nice picture with a long lifespan, so I'm not really knocking the v2000. I just think the 802's are a little nicer built, and nicer to work on, versus the v2000's.
Great Read.. Thank You for posting..
But since i'm having trouble with my G05-801
i got my hands on a G05-802
you say can make an adaptor to use 801 in a 802 cabinet
but what about the other way ?
is there a problem of an adaptor cable to test/try the 802 in a 801 cabinet ?
 
Great Read.. Thank You for posting..
But since i'm having trouble with my G05-801
i got my hands on a G05-802
you say can make an adaptor to use 801 in a 802 cabinet
but what about the other way ?
is there a problem of an adaptor cable to test/try the 802 in a 801 cabinet ?

You can go the other way too. You just need to map each wire accordingly.
 
Working on a G05-802 for a friend's Asteroids Deluxe that went out on him the other day. Game and monitor are in very nice condition, and both have been nicely refurbished previously by whoever he picked the game up from...rebuilt monitor, new Big Blue, etc., etc....pretty much all of the stuff I would do to the game if I were to own it.

Anyway, the deflection board blows fuses 100 and 101 immediately upon power up.

I found that 2 of the pins for the bridge rectifier (DB100) are reading as continuous (shorted) on the DVM. I checked the same pins for the same BR on a known, working deflection board I have and they do not read as continuous.

So I seem to have found my problem (I hope :) ), but wanted to see if the above makes sense before I order a new BR for the board.

Thanks in advance.

Jon
 
Working on a G05-802 for a friend's Asteroids Deluxe that went out on him the other day. Game and monitor are in very nice condition, and both have been nicely refurbished previously by whoever he picked the game up from...rebuilt monitor, new Big Blue, etc., etc....pretty much all of the stuff I would do to the game if I were to own it.

Anyway, the deflection board blows fuses 100 and 101 immediately upon power up.

I found that 2 of the pins for the bridge rectifier (DB100) are reading as continuous (shorted) on the DVM. I checked the same pins for the same BR on a known, working deflection board I have and they do not read as continuous.

So I seem to have found my problem (I hope :) ), but wanted to see if the above makes sense before I order a new BR for the board.

Thanks in advance.

Jon

Yes. Blown power fuses almost always means blown rectifier. (And if any legs are shorted, it's bad.)

You may also have other problems (or you may not), so it's good to just buzz through and test the four heatsinked transistors, the two diodes nearest the power resistors, and the frame transistors. You don't need to desolder anything, and it takes two minutes.
 
Yes. Blown power fuses almost always means blown rectifier. (And if any legs are shorted, it's bad.)

You may also have other problems (or you may not), so it's good to just buzz through and test the four heatsinked transistors, the two diodes nearest the power resistors, and the frame transistors. You don't need to desolder anything, and it takes two minutes.
Sorry...I forgot to mention that I had already done these things, and they all tested OK.

Just one thing...I'm only seeing one diode on the board next to the BR (at D100), and a smaller one near the brightness and contrast pots (D506).

Am I missing this 2nd diode?

And thanks for the clarification on the BR...I'll order some right now.

Jon
 
Sorry...I forgot to mention that I had already done these things, and they all tested OK.

Just one thing...I'm only seeing one diode on the board next to the BR (at D100), and a smaller one near the brightness and contrast pots (D506).

Am I missing this 2nd diode?

And thanks for the clarification on the BR...I'll order some right now.

Jon

There are diodes of different types scattered all around the board (basically everything with a 'D' in front of it. D602, 603, 606, 607, 701/2/3, etc) However I'm specifically referring to D608 and 708 here, as those are the other main ones that go, usually when you have a failure of one of the heatsinked transistors (which usually also takes out a fuse). You never really see any of the other small-signal ones fail.

They're probably fine in your case, but I'm being redundant here for any other readers, and these things apply to any 802 deflection board (and actually v2000's as well, which is basically the same design, and has the same failure modes).
 
I have a G05-801 and a Wells Gardner 19V2000. The HV boards are interchangeable? Thanks
 

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