wgr2570 issue in Wrestlemania Cab

SqueekJ

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Hello guys,

I've learned a lesson in the arcade world in regards to having a company provide a working monitor in my dedicated Wrestlemania for the trade of Holloseum... The end result is me with a new monitor not wired in my cabinet. I've spent countless hours and about 20 fuses trying to figure this out. Any help would be appreciated.

Here we go: The monitor matches to its chassis, wgr2570 and has proven to work at the "company who provided it." - I'm leaving their name out to prevent this from being a bash thread.

The cabinet wire harness is factory from what I can tell, including the power supply and isolation transformer.

Every time I plug the wires into the monitor chassis I blow the 250v fuse. I've attached pictures via my cell phone to see if you can help me make sense of the issue. If you need more details/pictures please let me know as im not an expert but am trying to learn all I can.

Thank you in advance.
 
I forgot the pictures....
 

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I also understand I should be able to plug the wires directly from the iso just as the pictures show. The tech told me the cabinet wiring is "wack" but looks like a standard midway wiring pattern to me.
 
tell me you tested the monitor before you traded for it.

It honestly could be a number of things but if it worked before you put it in there then that tells us it's poss the cabinet wiring or something randomly went out on the chassis.
 
tell me you tested the monitor before you traded for it.

It honestly could be a number of things but if it worked before you put it in there then that tells us it's poss the cabinet wiring or something randomly went out on the chassis.

I watched the monitor in action before I took it. The deal was he was suppose to put it in the cab and get it working. etc. etc.

I appreciate your feedback. Is it possible that an isolation transformer needs to be replaced?
 
no but you need to add one additional one in there just to power the monitor.

the reason behind it is:

1: some of those midway cabs had the power wiring for the ISO wrong from the factory.

2: that did not mater because some of the cabs came with a hantarex polo and they did not need a ISO.

now what you need to do is take out the chassis and measure your 6 diodes in your power supply. D19-24 and the H.O.T. for shorts.

in the event any one of those parts are blown they will need to be replaced.
then we can test some other things before you power up the chassis.

other wise depending on how the deal was struck from the comp you traded you can pursue the issue with them or get your hands dirty and repair this chassis with our help.

and in the event you want it repaired by me i will be happy to do it for you.

but let's start with the troubleshooting first and see where we are:)

Peace
Buffett
 
no but you need to add one additional one in there just to power the monitor.

the reason behind it is:

1: some of those midway cabs had the power wiring for the ISO wrong from the factory.

2: that did not mater because some of the cabs came with a hantarex polo and they did not need a ISO.

now what you need to do is take out the chassis and measure your 6 diodes in your power supply. D19-24 and the H.O.T. for shorts.

in the event any one of those parts are blown they will need to be replaced.
then we can test some other things before you power up the chassis.

other wise depending on how the deal was struck from the comp you traded you can pursue the issue with them or get your hands dirty and repair this chassis with our help.

and in the event you want it repaired by me i will be happy to do it for you.

but let's start with the troubleshooting first and see where we are:)

Peace
Buffett

Buffet, you are awesome! I read many of your posts and always see you going the extra mile.

I ordered an iso earlier today just to have a backup from Bob Roberts and expect it in the mail sometime next week. In the meantime ill pull the monitor and chassis out and start checking it as you suggested. I wish I could get in there and just remove the chassis but there isint enough room.

Thank you! :)
 
I had someone PM me asking for a picture of the outside of the cab, so here you go.
 

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no prob happy to help glad i have been a help to others.

if you are careful there is enough room to get the chassis out with the monitor in there, you just have to be a ninja to do it.

i have done it in the past, but even i do not prefer to do so, so like you i just yank the monitor:)

if you want to see more of what i do please chaek out my youtube channel.
please subscribe if you like it.

i will be doing some tech videos now that i have a video camera:)
so if there is any suggestions on what you would like to see let me know and i will put that suggestion on the list.

http://www.youtube.com/user/buffett1978?feature=mhee

let us know what you find out:)

Peace
Buffett
 
I just looked through your videos and subscribed. Woohoo I'm the 10th! :) ill get all of your new videos sent to my phone, pretty sweet.

This "new" monitor is coming out. Dont be surprised if you end up with this chassis. Ha ha. I've done a few cap kits, hot, flyback replacemts in my past but none on this type of chassis.

I'll keep you posted and pass your YouTube channel along.

:D
 
thank you for being #10.

and thank you for passing it along.

no prob if you need to send it in.

a K7000 can be one of the best to learn on:)
But they can be stumpers also i have had a few and so far i have beaten all of my customers chassis and a few of my stumpers along the way:)

so lets get yours out and see where we stand.

Peace
Buffett
 
no but you need to add one additional one in there just to power the monitor.

the reason behind it is:

1: some of those midway cabs had the power wiring for the ISO wrong from the factory.

2: that did not mater because some of the cabs came with a hantarex polo and they did not need a ISO.

now what you need to do is take out the chassis and measure your 6 diodes in your power supply. D19-24 and the H.O.T. for shorts.

in the event any one of those parts are blown they will need to be replaced.
then we can test some other things before you power up the chassis.

other wise depending on how the deal was struck from the comp you traded you can pursue the issue with them or get your hands dirty and repair this chassis with our help.

and in the event you want it repaired by me i will be happy to do it for you.

but let's start with the troubleshooting first and see where we are:)

Peace
Buffett

alright. I check the diodes and 20 and 21 need to be replaced. it's going take me a day or so to get those diodes to actually put back on the chassis and I'm looking at the board and I'm use to working on g07 chassis... Which 1 of these things is the actual hot? it doesn't lead in from the power like it does the G07 chassis. Forgive me if I'm just blind. :confused:
 
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who knows i have seen many difrent head scrachers with the K7000.

so i stoped asking those questions and just fixed the chassis.

it made life less stressful.

Peace
Buffett
 
I have a K7193 where I changed everything on it and it still pops the fuse.

go figure.

EDIT: I think buffett and the cadillacman couldn't help me with that one. :)

I also discovered that I was testing my diodes wrong the entire time. I suck. go me.
 
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who knows i have seen many difrent head scrachers with the K7000.

so i stoped asking those questions and just fixed the chassis.

it made life less stressful.

Peace
Buffett

Alright... back to testing this board. I was side tracked from taking my son to the WWE Royal Rumble, go figure. :)

The H.O.T. high output transistor, metered .500 on both outside legs. All is good there.

I also tested lC4, C38, C36 and D18. Those are all fine.

I think Rl05 is bad plus it did this to R104:uploadfromtaptalk1359355246037.jpg

What do I need to do after I replace the diodes and fuse; providing I've put the new isolation transformer in the cab?:D
 
R104 is probably not bad test it and see what the ohms are.

check C37 and it's diode D15 and make sure your filter cap is not shorted.

R105 is your thermistor it controls your degauss coil i doubt it is bad.

if all this checks out get that ISO installed and fire it up watch the fuse as you do it. put the monitor on a stool or table behind the game so you can observe what happens.

test your B+ if the fuse does not blow to see what it is.

if it is in HV shutdown and your fuse does not blow then we can go from there.

Peace
Buffet
 
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