WGM2792-U0TS30A Monitor Help

Kevin13

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Hello. Been lurking for a couple of days and decided to ask this question. I just picked up a Golden Tee Fore 2003 machine from a buddy's work who decided to get rid of it. All that was told to me was that the game used to work, then started to lock up, so the harddrive was replaced, and now the monitor is blank, no picture or noticeable light around the edges. On the chassis is WGM2792-U0TS30A. Since all of this is new to me, is there anything in particular I should be looking at to troubleshoot and resolve this problem? Any info or insight is greatly appreciated. If pictures are needed, just let me know of what and I'll get them taken and posted.

Also, I noticed the power cord is missing the ground prong on the plug itself, but the cabinet is wired as if it were there, ie ground wire connects to a terminal block at the bottom of the cabinet. While I don't think this is relates to the monitor issue, I figured I'd mention it.

Thanks,
Kevin
 
This is a D9200 monitor, sometimes called "That Damn D9200" by monitor repair techs.

First, make sure there is power to the monitor, then listen to see if you can hear it making a ticking sound when turned on. If so, replace the HOT....
 
You may be speaking alien mod lol....

I assume you can play this game blind??(meaning---cant see anything but sounds and all is there, you can play the game just not see it)

Id get a multi-meter also known as a digital volt ohm meter..

They are only like $10 at harbor frieght... somedya get a nice one but a cheapie will do ya for now..


Set it to ac volts...

Ok now on this monitor should be a white and black wire(fat).. also might have a geeen in the middle... mabye not..
anyways thats the power wires for the monitor. Insert the two meter leads into the plug.. One on the white, one in the black... whats your ac volts?

If you have 120vac(volts ac), then your monitor has power..

Next with it on, look at the back of the tube(the small cylindrical part)
DO you see a orange glowing light???
If so, good, the monitor is at least trying to work. It no glow, then you have a monitor problem and that will turn into a whole other fiasco.

Now if you have neck glow and power to the monitor, then i would next check connections between the games circuit board and the monitor..
There should be a green, red, blue, and a few other wires (skinny) that plugs onto the monitor. Thats the video input wires. Make sure that those wires didnt come unplugged somehow.. Also check the main edge connector that hooks onto the games circuit board. Make sure its firmly plugged in/seated.


Theres a ton more to go over but lets start ya out with some basics and see if you get lucky...
 
You're correct, I could play blind....no video, but everything else was there. After reading the advice and suggestions, I started to dig in and suffice to say....I'm a dumbass. I didn't realize there is a small fuse on the monitor board and it was shot. I replaced it and the monitor powered up just fine.

Now that I can see, I set out to adjust the picture. I got it the best I could using the monitor menus, but the image doesn't fit the whole screen. Any suggestions?

Thanks again,
Kevin

DSC02365.jpg
 
The D9200 has a reputation for sometimes getting memory corruption. I'm not sure if that's the case here, because it usually manifests as a brightness problem. Using the menu controls only gives you limited control.

If you want to try this fix, hold the DOWN and SEL buttons on the remote at the same time. This will access the Factory Menu. Once in that menu, do a Memory Recall, then try adjusting everything in the Factory Menu to the way you like it. Then exit to the normal menu and do any other adjustments you think you need done.

Hopefully, that will fix it. If not, you may need to rebuild that monitor...
 
Thanks, I tried it with no luck. The adjustments didn't allow any more than before...still have the 1.5 - 2" section of unused screen at the bottom. It seems to wrap back on itself if adjusted too far.

Please bear with me as this is all new to me, but if rebuilding my monitor is the way to go, what's involved? What will I need to replace, etc. to get this working correctly? I assume is cheaper than buying a new monitor? Any info. is appreciated.
 
You can get a complete electrolytic cap kit for less than $50 - compared to about $500 for a new monitor. If you can solder and can identify component polarity markings, you can replace the caps yourself. Or you can pay someone about $100-150 to do it for you....
 
Thanks Mod. I looked on Wells Gardner's site and they have a cap kit for $10 (S-KIT CAP-2792). Is that all I'll need or is there more? I couldn't find anything on Bob Roberts site, but maybe I missed something.

Thanks.
 
Bob probably doesn't have it. You could check to see if WG can sell you a new HOT (Horizontal Output Transistor) at the same time, as that might need to be replaced as well....
 
BTW - check to see if it's a COMPLETE cap kit, or just a partial for the "known to fail" parts. $10 seems pretty cheap for what I think is about 45 caps....
 
Got it...I'll look for a complete cap kit and HOT. You've been a big help, thanks alot. I'll get the parts and replace them and then report back.
 
Also...do you happen to know the reference designator on the PCB of the HOT? Thanks.
 
Q425 - C4770 (2SC4770)

An NTE 2324 will work as a replacement if you can't get an actual C4770...
 
So now that I have my cap kit, I'm ready to start reworking the board. One question I have is how do I remove the 2 small diameter wires coming from the monitor as shown below:

IMG00121.jpg
 
I believe those wires go to the anode cup on the back of the tube. The first thing you need to do is discharge the tube, here is a helpful guide to discharging:

http://www.therealbobroberts.net/sb.html

Then you just remove the cup, usually the discharge tool can be used to squeeze the clips holding the cup in place and the cup can then be popped off.
 
Are you talking about the red and the blue, or the two reds?

The red and blue have a connector on the end plugged into the board (horizontal yoke, I believe). Just unplug it. Pay attention to which color is where so you don't have to flip it later if you put it on backwards and the picture comes up upside-down. There'll be a yellow/green wire connector elsewhere on the chassis for the vertical yoke.

The two red are tied into the flyback. One goes to the anode cup (discharge the tube and pop it out) and the other goes to the neckboard I think (which you leave attached)....
 
Yep, I was referring to the two red wires. So what I'm hearing is that in order to replace the caps on the monitor board, I have to remove the whole monitor, chassis, etc.?
 
Yep, I was referring to the two red wires. So what I'm hearing is that in order to replace the caps on the monitor board, I have to remove the whole monitor, chassis, etc.?

The chassis is the circuit board mounted behind the tube, including the neckboard. Unplug everything that can be unplugged that connects it to the tube, frame or cabinet (power wiring, ground straps, yoke connector(s), video input connector, degauss connector, etc) and then remove the screws holding the chassis to the frame and pull it all out (pull the neckboard straight back off the neck pins) and set it on a table or workbench so you can replace the caps.

Put it back in the opposite way. take pics if you're worried you'll forget where to put everything....
 
Thanks to everyone for their help and putting up with my newbie-ness. I replaced all of the caps per the cap kit and replaced the HOT and the video now fills the entire screen. Just got to give it a good cleaning and it'll be ready for the basement. Thanks again.
 
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