WGM2792 picture issues

CraZy Muffin

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Where should I start with this one? On an Arctic Thunder.

Issues I can see:
- Center color is correct, but both sides are not.
- top right is collapsing
- whole picture is rotated/twisted
- after running for a couple minutes, a "clicking" sound has started to randomly happen, and when it does the image flickers. Possibly something shorting (flyback?)

Could use some advice, but seems like I might need to replace caps and maybe the flyback? Anything else I should look at while doing that?

Or if I were to just replace the chassis, would I be able to find a quality replacement? Is there a model number or something I can search for what chassis would work on this?

Thanks!
 
I had a similar set of issues (rotated picture, purity/color distortion, etc) on the same model monitor. Turned out that the heat had cooked the plastic form secured the yoke to the crt neck, and it had floated loose off of the tube. Plastic pieces just crumbled off when I tried to adjust it.

Suggest checking that the yoke is still well attached to the tube; the symptoms seem to line up with a very misaligned yoke.

This doesn't solve the clicking, but agree that it's probably the flyback.
 

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I had a similar set of issues (rotated picture, purity/color distortion, etc) on the same model monitor. Turned out that the heat had cooked the plastic form secured the yoke to the crt neck, and it had floated loose off of the tube. Plastic pieces just crumbled off when I tried to adjust it.

Suggest checking that the yoke is still well attached to the tube; the symptoms seem to line up with a very misaligned yoke.

This doesn't solve the clicking, but agree that it's probably the flyback.
Finally got around to pulling it out of the game. Yes it looks similar. So.. what are the next steps here?
 

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Finally got around to pulling it out of the game. Yes it looks similar. So.. what are the next steps here?

Like Zenomorp said, you could hold it in place with epoxy; you'll just need to make sure you can still adjust it (needs to be in the right spot for purity). Or epoxy it once you've got it aligned for correct purity.

My approach: I designed a 3d printed bracket that replaced the broken section, then glued that to the yoke. This allowed for adjustment and tightening afterwards.
 

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Like Zenomorp said, you could hold it in place with epoxy; you'll just need to make sure you can still adjust it (needs to be in the right spot for purity). Or epoxy it once you've got it aligned for correct purity.

My approach: I designed a 3d printed bracket that replaced the broken section, then glued that to the yoke. This allowed for adjustment and tightening afterwards.
Ohh, nice! Any chance you are willing to share the print file or print one to sell to me?
 
Like Zenomorp said, you could hold it in place with epoxy; you'll just need to make sure you can still adjust it (needs to be in the right spot for purity). Or epoxy it once you've got it aligned for correct purity.

My approach: I designed a 3d printed bracket that replaced the broken section, then glued that to the yoke. This allowed for adjustment and tightening afterwards.
dude that's awesome

I had a D9200 with a broken yoke assembly years ago. it's probably in a landfill now.
 
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